What’s going on guys and gals,
Just wanted to ask for opinions and share my LX that I just purchased. Vehicle info:2002 LX470 with 154,039 miles, service history is non-existing after 67XXXmiles…body is in ok shape, interior is perfect, no rips or holes. Undercarriage: surface rust, being treated.
I just purchase my first LX1470 with 154K, some rust issues, and a bit of body damage. I thought it was a decent deal as I was able to get $1,200 (they were asking 7.7K for it and I purchased it for 6.5K) off the asking price and I’d figure I would use up that plus a little more to get the truck basic start up maintenance and fish the hood including paint. I bought a used hood from a local junkyard, color was black so I am having a local professional shop strip and paint the hood and the headlights brackets that were broken and I ended up ordering new ones from eBay.
I also just had the oil serviced at the dealership and they pointed out that I need to change my brakes and rotors etc… now I am looking to replace all of it with Powerstop kid that I see its somewhat popular on here unless there is a better substitution.
I have began treating the rust issues, as you can see from the pictures the rust is mainly (key word) surface rust, there are a few spots that will require some additional TLC to stop/neutralize any additional rust from forming. I have in the past successfully performed this in way worst (holes in the frame from rust) to what is consider acceptable. Here I am 100% sure this can be fixed and completely neutralized in most spots. My method: wire brushes, wheel brushes, grinder, air tool grinder, air tool mini jack hammer and time and patience. I just did from the from wheel fender to the rear of the car and it took met about 1 week working in 2-hour sessions as I was extremely busy, the key here is patience and patience….I did it in my garage that sint very large so I could not use a lift, had to just crawl underneath in my creeper, hurt elbows turn rust to dust…I got 90-95% of the accumulated (layered) rust off (the mini jackhammer was amazing for this, from Walmart 17 bucs), I then used a degreaser and brake dust remover to clean all areas where I had worked to make sure when I treated there would be full adhesion to the raw metal and seal any moisture out. I did Rust oleum 2 in 1 rust reform and sealer generously to ensure proper protection for longevity (fold dislike these because they can be a nightmare, in my experience its all about the prep that the results will show the outcome, if you do it right, this will protect your car for a long time. In addition, I applied fluid film in two sessions letting each coat penetrate at least 24hrs, this will neutralize any left-over moisture in the existing rust spots as well as keep future moisture from seeping into the now empty crevasses/pores. Again, I have had success with this method with a 2000 4runner and a 2012 FJ cruiser, others might have different views.
My hood and light covers will be ready for pick-up tomorrow from the paint shop so I will post pictures once its better dressed up.
I was thinking of adding the OME 2” lift with the diff drop? Which one do you guys recommend, I would like to run 295/70/17 so will this lift be enough? Also, the owner before me did the strut master ACH delete, what kit exactly that fits what ever this conversion is…? I am new to LC as you may be able to tell….
Also, I am looking to buy the ARB front bumper, what is the best lift set up to carry the additional weight upfront?
My goal is to build a comfortable family (wife and 2 dogs) can travel with reliability and the occasional trail here and there with some decent capability?
Next to do:
Trans fluid drain/refill-OEM
Spark plugs-OEM
Coils-OEM
Brakes- PowerStop kit unless adviced not to
Wp/tb- previous owner says it was replaced at 110K miles, not seeing a sticker anywhere….so might need to investigate this asap.
Heater tee’s- I bought the metal amazon ones with the right clamps
I hear a engine knock when the car is just first started, it doesn’t matter if its hot or a cold start, I can hear it knock for a few minutes then it goes completely away? Any idea what this might be? A seal? Leak somewhere?
What else do you all suggest I do asap to ensure long life and happy travels?
Just wanted to ask for opinions and share my LX that I just purchased. Vehicle info:2002 LX470 with 154,039 miles, service history is non-existing after 67XXXmiles…body is in ok shape, interior is perfect, no rips or holes. Undercarriage: surface rust, being treated.
I just purchase my first LX1470 with 154K, some rust issues, and a bit of body damage. I thought it was a decent deal as I was able to get $1,200 (they were asking 7.7K for it and I purchased it for 6.5K) off the asking price and I’d figure I would use up that plus a little more to get the truck basic start up maintenance and fish the hood including paint. I bought a used hood from a local junkyard, color was black so I am having a local professional shop strip and paint the hood and the headlights brackets that were broken and I ended up ordering new ones from eBay.
I also just had the oil serviced at the dealership and they pointed out that I need to change my brakes and rotors etc… now I am looking to replace all of it with Powerstop kid that I see its somewhat popular on here unless there is a better substitution.
I have began treating the rust issues, as you can see from the pictures the rust is mainly (key word) surface rust, there are a few spots that will require some additional TLC to stop/neutralize any additional rust from forming. I have in the past successfully performed this in way worst (holes in the frame from rust) to what is consider acceptable. Here I am 100% sure this can be fixed and completely neutralized in most spots. My method: wire brushes, wheel brushes, grinder, air tool grinder, air tool mini jack hammer and time and patience. I just did from the from wheel fender to the rear of the car and it took met about 1 week working in 2-hour sessions as I was extremely busy, the key here is patience and patience….I did it in my garage that sint very large so I could not use a lift, had to just crawl underneath in my creeper, hurt elbows turn rust to dust…I got 90-95% of the accumulated (layered) rust off (the mini jackhammer was amazing for this, from Walmart 17 bucs), I then used a degreaser and brake dust remover to clean all areas where I had worked to make sure when I treated there would be full adhesion to the raw metal and seal any moisture out. I did Rust oleum 2 in 1 rust reform and sealer generously to ensure proper protection for longevity (fold dislike these because they can be a nightmare, in my experience its all about the prep that the results will show the outcome, if you do it right, this will protect your car for a long time. In addition, I applied fluid film in two sessions letting each coat penetrate at least 24hrs, this will neutralize any left-over moisture in the existing rust spots as well as keep future moisture from seeping into the now empty crevasses/pores. Again, I have had success with this method with a 2000 4runner and a 2012 FJ cruiser, others might have different views.
My hood and light covers will be ready for pick-up tomorrow from the paint shop so I will post pictures once its better dressed up.
I was thinking of adding the OME 2” lift with the diff drop? Which one do you guys recommend, I would like to run 295/70/17 so will this lift be enough? Also, the owner before me did the strut master ACH delete, what kit exactly that fits what ever this conversion is…? I am new to LC as you may be able to tell….
Also, I am looking to buy the ARB front bumper, what is the best lift set up to carry the additional weight upfront?
My goal is to build a comfortable family (wife and 2 dogs) can travel with reliability and the occasional trail here and there with some decent capability?
Next to do:
Trans fluid drain/refill-OEM
Spark plugs-OEM
Coils-OEM
Brakes- PowerStop kit unless adviced not to
Wp/tb- previous owner says it was replaced at 110K miles, not seeing a sticker anywhere….so might need to investigate this asap.
Heater tee’s- I bought the metal amazon ones with the right clamps
I hear a engine knock when the car is just first started, it doesn’t matter if its hot or a cold start, I can hear it knock for a few minutes then it goes completely away? Any idea what this might be? A seal? Leak somewhere?
What else do you all suggest I do asap to ensure long life and happy travels?
