I'm pretty new to all this - and totally new to the forum - but looking for some "help" - have a 00 4R with few mods (3" lift, sliders, etc) that spends most of it's time taking mu lovely lady to work - but we love to take it out and play - MO/ARK woods & CO mtns. BUT - has some tranny troubles - mech thinks it's a bad lip seal and needs to go in to fix it. big $$ - so thought of upgradiing while we're in there. Any ideas?
00 4r Tranny Help
- Thread starter tommy-d
- Start date
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First, Welcome!
Second, the best upgrade (and most cost effective) is a tranny cooler. Very easy to install by just tapping into existing lines. Can do at any time, and this will save your tranny on the long slow crawls, day to day traffic, or while pulling.
Another option is the Valve body upgrade, by IPT or Level 10. The valve body would have to be removed and shipped to their facility for the upgrade (turn around time is about a week). Usually this is only needed for routine heavy towing or supercharged engines. Expect to spend around $700.
Read http://www.yotatech.com/showthread.php?t=99764&highlight=IPT for more, and check out the links on post #20.
Second, the best upgrade (and most cost effective) is a tranny cooler. Very easy to install by just tapping into existing lines. Can do at any time, and this will save your tranny on the long slow crawls, day to day traffic, or while pulling.
Another option is the Valve body upgrade, by IPT or Level 10. The valve body would have to be removed and shipped to their facility for the upgrade (turn around time is about a week). Usually this is only needed for routine heavy towing or supercharged engines. Expect to spend around $700.
Read http://www.yotatech.com/showthread.php?t=99764&highlight=IPT for more, and check out the links on post #20.
Automatic or manual? Gotta get that straight first.
Second, if it's an auto, and you feel like it's slipping, adding a tranny cooler isn't going to do squat for you right now. First, have that thing flushed (completely; as in on a machine) and all the fluid replaced with a quality synthetic. If that fixes it, add a cooler immediately. If not, you may have some bad clutch packs and need a rebuild. I don't think a valve body upgrade is going to save you from that; i.e. get the basics working before working on value adds.
- Thread starter
- #4
OK - wasn't clear - sorry 'bout that. It IS and auto - I"m sure of it.
SLip only occurs for about 3 seconds when cold and first starting - after that it's fine. only 106K miles on it so hate to do a total rebuild already
SLip only occurs for about 3 seconds when cold and first starting - after that it's fine. only 106K miles on it so hate to do a total rebuild already
Good thing I had my crystal ball charged.
Slip-hesitation-lag in the transmission when it's cold is common with my '01, and with other similar year trannys (from research on yotatech, ttora, and 4x4wire). Now if it occurs once it's warmed up, or gets worse, obviously there is a problem. It's very noticeable below freezing, but warms up and subsides after a few seconds.
Since you asked about "upgrades" I mentioned a tranny cooler. It won't cure a slipping problem (which you don't have), but it sure as hell won't hurt. This is something easy to do in your garage, and it pays dividens in preventative measures. For a quick how-to write up, looky here http://www.parksoffroad.com/tacomamods/trannycooler/trannycooler.htm
The reason I mentioned the VB "upgrade" was to demonstrate that there is no other real tranny mod for ours. There are no shift kits like other makes, and unless your slapping in a supercharger, there's no real need.
Unless you're loosing oil around the input/output shafts, I'd be hesitant to replace a lip seal. Check your fluid level, color, and yes, smell. But the slip/hesitation when cold is normal. Try letting it warm up a few seconds before moving, and keep the ECT on while in town. It will shift at higher rpms and is actually better for the tranny then forcing it to shift smooth like a luxury car, just not better for the mpg. But that is what a shift kit would do.
Hope that helped a little, sorry for the dissertation.
You're overdue for a flush.
Start there. Mine does this from time to time, but ONLY after a very hard stop. Mine's overdue for a flush as well (has a cooler and Level-10 kit).
I personally stay away from the flushes as the chemicals used can loosen debris and make matters worse. I stick to fluid exchanges.
A good flush would only ever use oil new oil to get all of the old oil out. Should take 2-2.5 times the amount of oil the tranny holds.
A while back guys on the 80s list got flushes and the trannies blew soon afterwards hence the term exchange.
We've come to call what you describe as an exchange rather than a flush.
We've come to call what you describe as an exchange rather than a flush.
- Thread starter
- #11
OK - I think I'll just leave her be. This is the coldest the 4R has ever seen and never acts up once it's warm - so makes sense. I'll add the cooler to my to-do/dream list
But - don't understand how I could be over-due for a flush in only 35K miles,
But - don't understand how I could be over-due for a flush in only 35K miles,
OK - I think I'll just leave her be. This is the coldest the 4R has ever seen and never acts up once it's warm - so makes sense. I'll add the cooler to my to-do/dream list
But - don't understand how I could be over-due for a flush in only 35K miles,
IIRC, manual specifies 30K miles between fluid changes. I see no reason to go beyond that interval.
Mine is overdue as well; I need to get an appointment scheduled. I've been putting it off since 4 gallons of Amsoil isn't exactly cheap.
