need checklist for head gasket replacement (1 Viewer)

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fredcapo

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Jan 12, 2006
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I have a 94 TLC that needs a head gasket. It ran fine - passed NJ State inspection w emissions a month before I realized HG was blown. It loses coolant thru exhaust, bubbles back into reservoir, rouns rogh a few minutes after cold start. After letting it sit a few months, I found a mechanic that will do the job for around $1800. I think the guy is honest and competant...

I would appreciate it if any of you who have been thru this can give me a checklist of things that should be checked and done while the head is off and work is underway.

Thanks
 
IdahoDoug has a good how to DVD and list of parts for HG repair and suggestions. Cruiserdan is a Toyota parts guru and is able to get tremendous prices on all parts and will be likely to suggest things to do.

PM them--they are good places to start.
 
-clean the injectors and fuel rail (send them out to an injector shop)
-replace the fuel filter (make sure you cut a slot in the inboard mount hole)
-get the head checked for warp at a machine shop and shaved if necessary. also pressure tested for cracks
-have the machine shops check valves and consider a valve grind depending on outcome of
-new fuel pressure regulator
-clean the throttle body and the upper plenum egr passage
-replace the alternator brushes
-replace all rad hoses, especially the PHH
-carefully decarbonize the cylinders and check for ring wear
-replace the chain tensioner if you have the older type
-replace the starter contacts (easier access)
-replace the heat wrap on the engine harness where it passes from the firewall alongside the EGR valve
 
I just replaced mine and went ahead and did.. Timing chain & both gears,chain tensioner, rod bearings, waterpump, all radiator and heater hoses,all oil jets, and the nozzle, fuel filter,all seals & orings, head bolts,piston rings & both idler pulleys...and probably a few other things I cant think of at the moment.

By the way...$1800.00 for labor only?????!!
 
Last edited:
CPJONES1231 said:
I just replaced mine and went ahead and did.. Timing chain & both gears,chain tensioner, rod bearings, waterpump, all radiator and heater hoses,all oil jets, and the nozzle, fuel filter,all seals & orings, head bolts,piston rings & both idler pulleys...and probably a few other things I cant think of at the moment.

By the way...$1800.00 for labor only?????!!
Click to expand...

um strictly speaking what you got done was no longer a head gasket job!
 
CPJONES1231 said:
well, i figured while I was in there, I might as well replace everything else. Even though it didnt really need it....
Click to expand...


.... YUP I know how you feel ... "might as well replace this" although it does make sense and it depends how big your wallet is....
 
I think tools or clown, one of them fellers called that the slippery slope! You start into one thing and before you know it you have torn everything apart and are putting new items in them all.
 
semlin said:
-clean the injectors and fuel rail (send them out to an injector shop)
-replace the fuel filter (make sure you cut a slot in the inboard mount hole)
-get the head checked for warp at a machine shop and shaved if necessary. also pressure tested for cracks
-have the machine shops check valves and consider a valve grind depending on outcome of
-new fuel pressure regulator
-clean the throttle body and the upper plenum egr passage
-replace the alternator brushes
-replace all rad hoses, especially the PHH
-carefully decarbonize the cylinders and check for ring wear
-replace the chain tensioner if you have the older type
-replace the starter contacts (easier access)
-replace the heat wrap on the engine harness where it passes from the firewall alongside the EGR valve
Click to expand...

In addition to that excellent list I would reccomend;
-new style fan clutch with the blue base (old are black or bare metal base)
 
click here....
 
thanks for the info

I appreciate all of your input on this. I'm going to go over details of the job with the mechanic tomorrow. A guy who works in a real auto parts/machine shop here set me up with his mechanic.

I was told $1825 for the basic job, whick I assume would be flipping in a new head gasket and whatever machine shop work needs to be done. But now that I have your input, we can discuss what it would make sense to do when the head is lifted.

I told my friend about the DVD - but he thought the mechanic might be offended if we offer it to him... he said hes done a number of these jobs. Estimated it at 16 hours... don't know if that includes lunch...
 
16 hours is probably about right for a good mechanic. i doubt this guy has done an 80 before so it will take him longer the first time. ask him about the dvd. tell him it's a diy kit but has some shortcuts in it so he might get something off it that saves him an hour or two or not.

i doubt the quote includes machine shop charges.
 
fredcapo said:
I was told $1825 for the basic job, whick I assume would be flipping in a new head gasket and whatever machine shop work needs to be done. But now that I have your input, we can discuss what it would make sense to do when the head is lifted.
Click to expand...

Make sure you find out exactly what in done with "the basic job". IIRC dealers are getting about $1500, so be sure of what you are getting for your $1800. FWIW I just did mine not too long ago and the machine work ran $375 for milling head, valve grind and re-assembly with all new seals at a reputable shop. If that is not included it sounds like an expesive job bid. Just my $0.2 .
 
Sounds expensive to me also, though rates vary by where you live. Clarify if this includes having the machine shop to a valve grind and resurfacing the head or if that's extra. If that's extra it's a very high quote.

DougM
 
1800 not that bad, really

If you consider time, parts cost, and having someone else doing it, that sounds like a pretty fair price. I've spent 2200 plus another 400 to make some parts prettier. I'm also doing the lower end, valve job (this used to be called a complete overhaul back in the day). All that and I'm doing the work (less machine shop and powder coating).

I didn't really care that the cost would be a little high. I could not spend under 3000 and get a vehicle this good. I may be able to spend 3 X that and get a rig more tired than mine. Even if I wind up overhauling the front dif, and transmission, I still have MY rig that I know all the history of, and an almost good as new engine. and it's been paid for quite a while now.

If you like your rig, replace anything that hasn't recently been done while your guy has it all apart. Cheaper now than later.

There's my .02 worth.

Good luck!
 
DTAYLOR said:
I didn't really care that the cost would be a little high. I could not spend under 3000 and get a vehicle this good. I may be able to spend 3 X that and get a rig more tired than mine. Even if I wind up overhauling the front dif, and transmission, I still have MY rig that I know all the history of, and an almost good as new engine. and it's been paid for quite a while now.

If you like your rig, replace anything that hasn't recently been done while your guy has it all apart. Cheaper now than later.

There's my .02 worth.

Good luck!
Click to expand...

I agree totally, an investment like this in an 80 is money well spent. I spent $1600 in parts and head machining and did all the labor myself. I replaced everything that even might go out in the next few years and I love the peace of mind.

Just to clarify it is not a matter of spending the $1800 it is what you get for that. He did not know if that included parts or head work and I felt he should be sure of what he was getting for his $1800.

:cheers:
 
semlin said:
-clean the injectors and fuel rail (send them out to an injector shop)
-replace the fuel filter (make sure you cut a slot in the inboard mount hole)
-get the head checked for warp at a machine shop and shaved if necessary. also pressure tested for cracks
-have the machine shops check valves and consider a valve grind depending on outcome of
-new fuel pressure regulator
-clean the throttle body and the upper plenum egr passage
-replace the alternator brushes
-replace all rad hoses, especially the PHH
-carefully decarbonize the cylinders and check for ring wear
-replace the chain tensioner if you have the older type
-replace the starter contacts (easier access)
-replace the heat wrap on the engine harness where it passes from the firewall alongside the EGR valve
Click to expand...

Excellent list! I would add replacing the thermostat, making sure all the orings around the cooling system coupler are fresh, replacing PCV valve and grommet, replacing fan clutch if its loose and water pump if its leaking, the radiator if its filled with sludge or leaking, and lastly replacing all the little vacuum lines with fresh stock. :cheers:
 
this is NJ... $1800 doesnt go far

Thanks for all the advice. This mechanic is a good old guy. Knows his stuff. He and the parts guy and I discussed the lists you provided and I think its going to work out fine. I think they are giving me a good deal considering this is NJ. My wife once spent $300 getting an oil change here...
 
fredcapo said:
I think they are giving me a good deal considering this is NJ. My wife once spent $300 getting an oil change here...
Click to expand...

$300 for an oil change. :eek: Wow you guys are like a third world country over there. I thought Orange County, Ca was bad.

Good luck,
Mo
 
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