Well after finally getting all the parts together and figuring out a ground loop problem, I now have my Street Pilot III mounted with external amplified speakers. In my 88 4Runner I sold to get my 94 LC, I had non-powered speakers up in the headliner for the voice navigation of my Garmin. Well I didn't feel like bringing down the headliner of the LC, but I still wanted to listen to the radio, and hear the GPS better. So it started with finding a cheap set of powered speakers for $5 at Spencers (on clearance).
First thing I did was cut them up all I wanted was the actual speaker since they work by resonating the air or surface they are attached to. I also like them since they had an external audio control and can be powered by 9V. 12V would have been better but thats ok. So used I a universal car voltage adapter to take give it the 9V and at least 800mA( Walmart sells one 3-12V @ 2A for ~$15). I already knew where I wanted to mount the speakers... a nice hidden place:
Yep, under the center console, and they came with double sided stick tape that was attached to the inflatable material. The audio control is under the e-brake handle:
So I figured I was almost set except for a mount. I decided to test out the Garmin with the powered speakers.... buzzing is all I got when it tried to speak and both the speakers and Garmin were powered by the car. Unplugging the Garmins power and running it on the AA batteries worked fine. After several troubleshooting attempts and searching on google I found my problem was a ground loop. So back to walmart and got a Ground Loop Isolator ($14). This breaks the physical ground connection by basically have 2 matched coils and transfer the signal by magnetic field. (If I understood the explaination correctly).
Finally, I have voice when both devices are powered. Now where do I mount my Garmin. My 94's dash is sloped, and I don't want a slanted screen. The 95 and newer dashes have that convenent ledge So. I used the same technique of mounting the GPS in my 89 Supra. What do I need an ash tray for anyway... I don't smoke.
SO with a 2x4 cut to 12inches, and some widdling.. I got this:
Fits very snug, its not going to move unless its a hard collision. I know its not pretty, but when you don't have all the tools you would like you make due... Hacksaw, dremel tool and chisel & hammer.
I did not want a suction cup mount because of putting up Sun shades... they always get in the way. Also, if people don't notice it in the window, it won't attract as much attention. Another benifit... all the mods I do, I try to make reverseable, without any damage left over.
So this is how it looks with and without the GPS mounted to it:
Yes the CD player opens fine and the disc comes out no problem just above the top of the GPS. Only thing I can't get to is my CD case directly behind the GPS, but with mp3 CD's I don't have to change the CD that often
I can also attach anything else do the external amplified speakers such as my PDA, CB (as an external speaker) or a laptop and still listen to the radio. And total cost of about $40 (including $6 for misc. audio adapters, some of which I had already)
I think I could cut the cost, by taking the powered speakers to 12V since the specs of the audio IC in it has a max of 12V and peak of 15V. I didn't want to risk it really, unless anyone knows of a constant source of 12V without varying value?
Just thought I'd post this to give anyone else ideas for projects, and any comments are welcome.
-Gary
First thing I did was cut them up all I wanted was the actual speaker since they work by resonating the air or surface they are attached to. I also like them since they had an external audio control and can be powered by 9V. 12V would have been better but thats ok. So used I a universal car voltage adapter to take give it the 9V and at least 800mA( Walmart sells one 3-12V @ 2A for ~$15). I already knew where I wanted to mount the speakers... a nice hidden place:
Yep, under the center console, and they came with double sided stick tape that was attached to the inflatable material. The audio control is under the e-brake handle:
So I figured I was almost set except for a mount. I decided to test out the Garmin with the powered speakers.... buzzing is all I got when it tried to speak and both the speakers and Garmin were powered by the car. Unplugging the Garmins power and running it on the AA batteries worked fine. After several troubleshooting attempts and searching on google I found my problem was a ground loop. So back to walmart and got a Ground Loop Isolator ($14). This breaks the physical ground connection by basically have 2 matched coils and transfer the signal by magnetic field. (If I understood the explaination correctly).
Finally, I have voice when both devices are powered. Now where do I mount my Garmin. My 94's dash is sloped, and I don't want a slanted screen. The 95 and newer dashes have that convenent ledge So. I used the same technique of mounting the GPS in my 89 Supra. What do I need an ash tray for anyway... I don't smoke.
SO with a 2x4 cut to 12inches, and some widdling.. I got this:
Fits very snug, its not going to move unless its a hard collision. I know its not pretty, but when you don't have all the tools you would like you make due... Hacksaw, dremel tool and chisel & hammer.
I did not want a suction cup mount because of putting up Sun shades... they always get in the way. Also, if people don't notice it in the window, it won't attract as much attention. Another benifit... all the mods I do, I try to make reverseable, without any damage left over.
So this is how it looks with and without the GPS mounted to it:
Yes the CD player opens fine and the disc comes out no problem just above the top of the GPS. Only thing I can't get to is my CD case directly behind the GPS, but with mp3 CD's I don't have to change the CD that often
I can also attach anything else do the external amplified speakers such as my PDA, CB (as an external speaker) or a laptop and still listen to the radio. And total cost of about $40 (including $6 for misc. audio adapters, some of which I had already)
I think I could cut the cost, by taking the powered speakers to 12V since the specs of the audio IC in it has a max of 12V and peak of 15V. I didn't want to risk it really, unless anyone knows of a constant source of 12V without varying value?
Just thought I'd post this to give anyone else ideas for projects, and any comments are welcome.
-Gary