Best Rust Prevention

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Red Herring

Red Herring

Joined
Feb 28, 2005
Threads
109
Messages
774
Location
Victopia BC
Hi All,

Back east we used to get our vehicles "Ziebarted"... tarred really. Have not seen anything like that on the west coast of Canada... not that I have looked hard yet.

My HJ has absolutely no rust on it, and I want to keep it that way. What do you fellas use, or what have you all done to keep the cancer at bay?

Steve
 
Hey Steve,

I'm in the same boat as you with my '88 BJ74. Pretty well ZERO rust. Just some dime sized surface areas under the carpet near the rear doors.

I spoke with Greg B on this. He recommended a spray that dries to a waxy coating. Pop all the drain plugs and spray around inside. I looked at Lordco and they had something like this product - its about $10 a can.

I look forward to seeing what others, including Greg again, recommend.

Bruce
 
there is a shop here in town that does a number of the new vehicles , shine guard , fabric guard, rust proofing and undercoating for $250... so far the trucks i have sent to them have been exceptional...
cheers
 
Ya... i would prefer to have a shop do it... as long as they do a good job... because the self spray can method can be arduous and expensive. I did my 4-runner with ashphalt... think i ate up 10 or 12 cans, and that was just a quick undercoating. I want someone with a wand who is going to get into the smallest crevices and cracks, let alone doing a major under carriage spray. Do I need to do it myself to get a good job done?

Wayne, you sound happy with your lads... do they do a really thorogh job... doors and rockers as well?
 
Last edited:
yep, i have inspected their work after each job,at first they cut corners on a couple trucks but when i sent the trucks back they redid the areas properly and they have done a nice job ever since...
cheers
 
I prefer the waxy stuff also, used everything else in between with no luck.

In some cases I like to use a permatex product on surface rust then the waxy film. I have used the permatex with great results for the past two years, no call backs or bubbles. In saying this we also use a spot blaster on those areas first and do not sand through the permatex.

Micro rust that the eye cannot detect is the worst, thats why I used permatex even after blasting.
 
Living in Arizona. That's the BEST rust prevention.



TB :doh: :grinpimp: :D
 
A2B in a TLC said:
Hey Steve,


I spoke with Greg B on this. He recommended a spray that dries to a waxy coating. Pop all the drain plugs and spray around inside. I looked at Lordco and they had something like this product - its about $10 a can.
Click to expand...

I've noticed this kind of product on the insides of the new body panels that were installed on my BJ70.
 
LPS 3, is a waxy rust proofing, buy a jug and few cans, reapply every year, buy a siphon sprayer and shoot it inside your frame,

We use this on float planes that dip in the sea. Another product is CorrosionX, and ACF50, both really good spray oils. But LPS 3 is my fav.

For serious corrosion protection there is s product called Dinitrol, you can buy in jugs and cans. You have to get these from an aviation supplier. The frame will not rust if this is installed. I dries like mollases. good strong film, and very corrosion proof. I know some planes that would not last with out this. We sprayed this on the skins inside and on fittings. In the floats etc. I worked in the Indian ocean and our planes would rot, 18 months and most of the skins would be shot. With this stuff it went up to 5 years before over hual. with many other good practices as well. Like making sure seams on the skins were sealed very well. so that that water doesn't get in.

But LPS 3 is really good. Can be bought at Acklands Grainger, Napa, and othere. Just get the gallon jug and a engine wash syphon sprayer, stick the suction straw in the jug and go nuts, Park off your dirveway, as it will drip all over it..

If yur a real red neck you can park on your lawn :)
 
Tried LPS 3, Fluid Film, 3M Rust Proofing, Krown, Rust Check, and Boeshield...and a few others.

Boeshield and LPS are aviation. 3M is automotive. 3M seems to leave a much thicker wax base behind after it creeps and penetrates. 3M mists nice, and covers a lot.

Krown and Rust Check did not seem to leave behind a waxy film, however penetrated nicely.

Fluid Film is lanoline based, and seems to penetrate well, and seems self healing.

I want to buy some liquid 3M, and mix it in with some Boeshield and Fluid Film....just because I can not leave well enought alone...

I have a spray kit bought local for misting cavities, and such on vehicles. I prefer to do my own, as I have been in and under the 60/74/42 so much that I believe I have a better idea on the hidden spots that rust then any store ever will...unless they are pointed out, and checked after...or they have a Cruiserhead working there.

I have not looked into Dinitrol yet, however it sounds interesting. Can you spray it? It does not harden up and crack like typical petrol based undercoating does?

hth's

gb
 
Greg,

Do you wash your rig at all in the winter? Right now, for rust prevention, all I do is wash my cruiser fairly regularly, especially during breakup (thaw). Would regular washings remove, say Boeshield, prematurely?
 
We do not get the temps you do, or they do in the east...so there is not the concern with wetting the salt during the winter. When we use salt here (one or twice a year) I wait a few days to ensure the cold is gone, then wash it. I do not re-apply any rust proofing.

Boesheild is really thin...thinner then LPS-3 iirc, so after a few washes I would think the surface would be impacted somewhat, however the wax base will certainly help it stand up.

A really good wash/dry and complete infusion of any of these products at least once a year would go a long way to helping. I saw a frame on a BJ60 in Squamish a few years back that was like the JDMs. The fellow was proud, and said the elderly fellow he bought it off sprayed Fluid Film on and in the frame and cavities a few times a year.

I sprayed 1/4 of my underside with 3M on the BJ74. This summer I will inspect and see if any has warn off. I have had it through a touchless wash 3 times since, that has an undercarrige high pressure wash as you come in. Guess I shoud have done 1/4 Boeshield, 1/4 3M, 1/4 Fluid Film and 1/4 something else before the winter started...

gb
 
The product that a lot of Land Rover people use is Waxoyl. It comes in several different varietys, including one that stays pretty gooey for inside the door panels, and a harder waxy type to spray on as undercoating. My HJ47 Troopy has been well preserved with this stuff, by somebody in Australia, and I am planning on using more of it myself. I am also looking into electronic rust protection, such as Counter Act. It is expensive, but fairly proven in larger commercial applications.
 
The dinitrol does not harden and crack. But I have seen it used in warm temps. It can be removed by using a stiff brush and some diesel(jet fuel) or some citrus type cleaner.

we long rods with misting tips to get into wings and hard to get to areas. there are different micron specs, 8 micron for penetrating and 30 for covering areas that are flat. they even make 100 micron which is gummy and can be used for packing areas, to keep out moisture.

they make another one we can spray on pulleys and rod ends, it stays semi fluid. sticky.

try this site, http://www.dinitrol.com/ this isn't crap like rust check, this is expensive stuff.

boeing uses it too. they have a boeing part number on the cans I have used.

I am going to do something like this inside fenders when I get them fixed. Rust removed.
 
Seems like the waxoyl that was mentioned is pretty easy to make at home i wonder how easy it is to apply though. Turpintine,wax ,and machine oil.

http://www.geocities.com/wallaces_21/waxoyl.html

My wifes garden sprayer and old oil changes seem to be doing ok. Don't tell her that though shes still looking for her turkey baster.

haha
 
I searched for Waxoyl a while back. A few dealers in the USA, but nothing in Canada. Seems a lot larger in Europe.

I've seen that formula too silvercrusher, and it seems simple enough. I bet it would work very well. Add in something like Fluid Film for the lanoline qualities and I bet it would be better. Other formula's I have seen dump the machine oil or turpintine and add in mineral spirits. Warm on a stove, and apply (watch the vapors). The mineral spirits provide the thin carrier, oil provides a...well...an oily barrier that creeps, and the wax that is brought in stays put creating a barrier to oxygen when the carrier evaporates. Pretty simple, and the same principle as 3M, LPS-3, and Boeshield.

The kit that I bought works well at spraying stuff like this into any area of the vehicle. Buy a similar kit and I bet it would spray the home brew very well.

gb
 
Ive only ever seen fluid film in areosol cans does it come in a normal jug and where can i get it. Acklands?
 
silvercrusher said:
Ive only ever seen fluid film in areosol cans does it come in a normal jug and where can i get it. Acklands?
Click to expand...
It also comes in gallon cans. Most auto supply places seem to carry it now. Even Crappy Tire carries the aerosol cans. pete
 
John Deere dealers can get you either the liquid or spray Fluid Film...at least they could a few years ago.

gb
 
Krown's oil is really good stuff, but there is a big difference between undercoating and oiling. I think things like Zebart stoped being use because water gets under them and makes it even worse.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

frankenyota
15BF Best Turbo to use?
Replies
19
Views
2K
Dougal
D

Users who are viewing this thread

Total: 1 (members: 0, guests: 1)

Share this page

Back
Top Bottom