Front end issue

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Jukelemon

Jukelemon

Joined
Dec 29, 2003
Threads
283
Messages
2,381
Location
Louisville, KY
98 with 114k. Just got back from a 800 mile trip loaded to about 1000 lbs payload. I have been noticing (prior to the trip) that my steering/front end just kept feeling loose. I would go over a bump at any speed over 35 mph and my steering wheel would shutter, not bounce, but shutter. I am certain that the shocks are toast in the truck-damn thing sways like a Flying Dutchmen on the Pacific. I plan on a full suspension replacement this week from Slee but I am not certain if that is going to fix the shutter i.e. wondering if I have some bushing issues going on.

Anyone else on this?

Is my 100 just inferior ( :
 
I haven't seen it on mine- just the front end vibration at highway speeds, which I think now is related to a loose or bad bearing in the front DS. I jacked the front up Sunday and could feel that 12-6 play.
 
Ds?
 
hank14 said:
I haven't seen it on mine- just the front end vibration at highway speeds, which I think now is related to a loose or bad bearing in the front DS. I jacked the front up Sunday and could feel that 12-6 play.
Click to expand...
Play felt when exerting force on a jacked up front wheel at 6 oclock and 12 oclock is typically ball joints; given the wheel bearings are good. 3-9 play is usually steering linkage.
 
Yes.
DS= driver side.
PS= passenger side.

I had to look it up once, too. Left and right depends on the direction you are facing.
 
jp213a said:
Play felt when exerting force on a jacked up front wheel at 6 oclock and 12 oclock is typically ball joints; given the wheel bearings are good. 3-9 play is usually steering linkage.
Click to expand...

Yes, I considered that. I tried checking the other angles, but both tires were off the ground and the right one was moving as well. I'm taking it in to have the bearings and ball joints checked tomorrow.

Thanks for the info. Didn't intend on hijacking the thread, Jukelemon.
 
Hank:

It's all good. New suspension goes on soon so, the front can get a check then.
 
hank14 said:
Yes, I considered that. I tried checking the other angles, but both tires were off the ground and the right one was moving as well. I'm taking it in to have the bearings and ball joints checked tomorrow.

OK, got it back from the shop at lunch- they couldn't find anything wrong with the front end, although I don't think they pulled they rotors and checked the bearings. Said the ball joints look good. They rotated all 5 tires and balanced, siad they were slightly off (they have been every time they were balanced). I took it out on the highway and it is still vibrating, no noticeable difference. So......

3 options:

1. Tires- the bridgestone Revos have a 3 year replacement guarantee if they are defective. If they can document this, they will replace the tires (at least 4 of them). If the problems goes away, it was bad tires. If not???
2. Bearings. I was thinking about repacking the bearings and installing them to spec, thinking the left DS may be a little loose or worn.
3. Drive 3-4 hours to Toyota Dealership for a good look at the front end to get the problem solved once and for all. Granted, I had it at a Toyota dealer twice for balance, alignment, etc, and they have never seen a problem.

Any thoughts?
Click to expand...
 
I would start with the bearings. Mostly because I want you to do a a write up for the FAQ before I do mine. If you are planning to do them anyway might as well do them now.

If you come to ABQ I'll assist and photograph. :D

My Max Ellerly manual says that

"Front Wheel Tramp!" could be caused by

= front shock absorbers operating incorrectly or unevenly, leaking fluid or total failure.

"Front Wheel Shimmy!" could be caused by

= Steering connections incorrectly adjusted or worn
= Control arm ball joints or front wheel bearings loose or worn
= Incorrect or uneven caster or toe-in incorrect
= Steering knuckle bent - replace front strut housing


jjbodean1970 said:
strut tops?
Click to expand...

Maybe he means the top mount of the shock absorber with it's rubber cushion.
 
I ordered the 54 mm bearing nut socket and a new cheap torque wrench yesturday. If I head to Albuquerque, I'll let American Toyota do the work and I'll photograph. :)

The shocks, mounts, et al seems rock solid, although I am planning on replacing shocks as well down the line. It will be a week before I tackle this thing, but pictures will definitely be in order.

The Toyota FSM says Front wheel shimmy (in order of likelihood):
1. Tire (worn or improperly inflated).
2. Wheel (Out of balance).
3. Shock absorber (worn).
4. Wheel alignment (incorrect).
5. Ball joint (Worn).
6. Hub bearing (loose or worn).
7. Steering linkage (loose or worn).
8. Steering gear (out of adjustment or broken).

I think I'm down to #6.

Thanks for the input.
 
As you start to look at the front wheel bearings as the cause of vibration, spin the front tires to verify there isn’t a bent spindle. If you’ve got a dial indicator that’s great but if not, place a heavy object (stack of bricks) next to the side of the wheel and watch the gap as the tire is spun. Obviously, if you see the gap opening and closing, something is wrong (bent spindle or wheel, bad bearings).

If you could find someone with a 100 that would swap wheels and tires for a short test, and the vibration stayed, that would confirm a lot. Or, if the vibration went away, you’d know where to look, especially if the vibration followed the wheels and tires to the other 100.

I’ve gathered that your vibration is present at all speeds, indicating it is not a balancing issue. Was the recent balancing done on a GSP9700 machine with the Haweka flange plate adaptor? The recent posting referencing www.hawekana.com was informative. I was pleasantly surprised to find my local Toyota dealer actually has this equipment in their shop.

As far as the FSM goes, why are the wheel bearings marked “non-reusable”? Is there more to evaluating their condition than the look and feel? They don’t appear to be anything special, just tapered roller bearing with a light preload. If one was bad, I’d probably replace its mate.
 
jp213a said:
As you start to look at the front wheel bearings as the cause of vibration, spin the front tires to verify there isn’t a bent spindle. If you’ve got a dial indicator that’s great but if not, place a heavy object (stack of bricks) next to the side of the wheel and watch the gap as the tire is spun. Obviously, if you see the gap opening and closing, something is wrong (bent spindle or wheel, bad bearings).

Which direction would the tire wobble? Do I lock or unlock the CDL? Tranny and t-case in Neutral?

If you could find someone with a 100 that would swap wheels and tires for a short test, and the vibration stayed, that would confirm a lot. Or, if the vibration went away, you’d know where to look, especially if the vibration followed the wheels and tires to the other 100.

That is an excellent idea. My brother in law just bought a 98, maybe we could try this. I really don't think it's tires, since the problem is the same no matter how they are rotated, it always feels like it is in the front DS.

I’ve gathered that your vibration is present at all speeds, indicating it is not a balancing issue. Was the recent balancing done on a GSP9700 machine with the Haweka flange plate adaptor? The recent posting referencing www.hawekana.com was informative.

It only shows up above 60 mph, sometimes worse than others, then gets faster as the speed increases. It wobbles too much to go much over 75. It was a GSP9700 at a Toyota dealership 3 hours away, but I don't know about the flange plate adaptor.


As far as the FSM goes, why are the wheel bearings marked “non-reusable”? Is there more to evaluating their condition than the look and feel? They don’t appear to be anything special, just tapered roller bearing with a light preload. If one was bad, I’d probably replace its mate.
Click to expand...

I don't know about this. I figured if I'm going to tear it apart to look, with a potential problem that hes been there for at least 18 months, and 135,000 miles on the clock, I would just replace them instead of repacking. Then I can pack them every 30,000 miles or so.

Thanks for the suggestions.
 
Any resolution on that?

I know this is an old thread, but we are having some issues too.

I had the tires completely replaced this spring to try to rule out the feeling of a slight shimmy in the steering wheel (at all speeds). This seemed to help a little, but it's still there.

The other day, wifey noticed it felt worse. I found the right front tire was down 10psi compared to left front tire. Brought them up to pressure. Tires are still pretty fresh. But now I am feeling the woob woob woob in the steering wheel as I make broad slow turns. I mean while the car is rolling and AS I TURN THE WHEEL, the steering wheel has varying force against my hand.

Plenty of power steering fluid in the reservoir. Couldn't feel play in the fronts when jacked up and wiggled at 12/6 or 3/9 positions.

I'm starting to think there's a funky tooth on the front differential ring gear. Or maybe the steering wrack pinion gear has a funky tooth.

Is that too far fetched? Any thoughts?
 
Mine was a loose shock nut ( :
 
Checked them.

Assuming you mean the top nut?
Jacked up the front end and back down a few times. Both sides seem to be pretty well snugged down. I didn' t take a wrench to them though. Was yours obviously loose?

While both fronts were lifted, I also tried feeling for play in the steering rack, pushing the front tire left then right, letting the steering wheel spin from lock to lock in both diretions a couple of times. I can't feel anything odd.

By the way, am I the only one who ever jacks the whole front end up from the round divot at the center point under the skid plate?
 
I think you are on the right track. Check the condition of everything and see if there is anything obviously wrong.

The rack and pinion bushing wear out on the Tundra and Tacomas and cause sloppy steering. The rack is behind the differential on those vehicles which is mechancially disadvantaged compared to having it in front like on the 100 series and the new Tacoma/4runner.

I would not discount the rack and pinion as a possible problem, even though it is not a known problem area on the UZJ100 design. I would say it is not far fetched.

I would put the front end up on jack stands, start the sucker (in park and ebrake on, rear wheels chocked;)), and have the wife move the steering wheel back and forth. Stand on either side and see if there is any play when you hold onto the left and right tires. It think the key is to check for play while the rack is under power.

Also, inspect all bushings and joints you can see.

Or if you are not that brave, take it to your trusted mechanic.

I've got a little wobble in the front too at fwy speeds. I've ruled out shocks, tires, and wheel bearings so far. I'm going to have my mechanic try and figure it out next time I take the truck in since I'm stumped.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

lx470alabama100
Front End Suspension Refresh
Replies
6
Views
745
Live to Ski
Live to Ski
calimba
Front end suspension work - advisement, thank you
Replies
8
Views
423
2001LC
2001LC
ODOverland
Front end opinions and direction help
Replies
16
Views
1K
ODOverland
ODOverland
7amannnyy
LC100 front diff issue - NEED HELP
2
Replies
20
Views
958
7amannnyy
7amannnyy

Users who are viewing this thread

Total: 1 (members: 0, guests: 1)

Share this page

Back
Top Bottom