FJ60 stock clutch? Is it a Luke? Or? (1 Viewer)

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Dry Fork, WV
Time for a new clutch. Wanna go stock parts(unless real reason to change). Got into an interesting discussion with my mechanic(backup when I screw something up) about what the stock clutch was in the FJ60.

His comment was the stock clutch was a Luke? I was expecting either Aisin, Koyo, or some Japanese brand ...

But Luke ???

Any info appreciated.

Thanks in advance,
Cahil
 
A lot of poeple sell stock kits. I was almost positive they were all asian...huh???


HIJACK: bro how ya been? where you up in Maryland for the storm? this next one is going to be pretty gnarly....anywho we are wheeling saturday if your up for it..later bro have a good one.

-Al :beer:
 
lowtideride said:
HIJACK: bro how ya been?

Been *ok*.

I'm freakin' tired of getting run over by hurricanes. The eye of Charlie was three miles wide and went right over us in Daytona. Francis whipped Daytona and laid her to waste. I yanked Mom out of Daytona(yesterday) and tucked her in with her sister in Arlington, VA.

I've got bad gut feel on Ivan. Francis didn't bother me. Fat and lazy. Ivans tight and trim. Much worse, IMHO.

Be safe, Ivan is bad new(core winds were recorded @ 220mph)
Cahil
 
yeah, I heard 90% of whatever it touched was already destroyed....eeekkk...I dont know if im going to stay on the island for this one. glad to hear ya made it out of the other one tho..
 
*Excellent*

Thanks again LandPimp !!! (that might become my sig)

:D

Cahil

P.S. I wanna keep her stock as much as possible, even down to the bolts. OME springs & shackles were a no brainer butt ... Keep in mind I'm gonna run 30-40k miles per year on her too.
 
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Well gee ... I went back to my mechanic and said the OEM clutch is suppose to be "Aisin". Know what he said ... same company.

Do'h !

Cahil
 
hey two things....

one how easy it to adjust the clutch on a 60? (not the clutch master cylinder the clutch its self)

and two is there an easy way to evaluate clutch wear since it happens so slowly?
 
lowtideride said:
hey two things....

one how easy it to adjust the clutch on a 60? (not the clutch master cylinder the clutch its self)

and two is there an easy way to evaluate clutch wear since it happens so slowly?

Adjust ? Dunno.

Evaluate ? Yup, there's an inspection cover. Three bolts. The clutch face has groves in it and basically ya' wanna see some groves left in the plate. I'm down below 1/16th. Possibly closer to 1/32nd. Plus pedal engages high in the throw.

Cheers,
Cahil
 
I knew that you could pull the cover but i din't know what to look for...thanks brotha.


I heard you can adjust the clutch on the older models..anyone know of this?


thanks man...

-Al
 
Was that a tail light lens I just heard crack ???

:D

Cahil
 
yeah, yeah, yeah, It was all the trees fault. It was hungry for a tail light lens. I think he heard that Nov of 81 was a good year. Turns out that sand does not give all that much traction..who da thought?
 
Anyone tried a Centerforce unit? I've read somewhere that the Centerforce 1 for the TLC has more clamping power than OEM with the same pedal effort. Just curious because I'll be looking at clutches in the next year prolly.
 
My bud Yodafrick has one and from what I've heard they kick ass.
 
The OE clutch is good. Many of the shops that do Cruiser mods only use OE and OE rebuilt. I'd be surprized if you can achieve mucxh more clamping force without increased pedal effort with a Centerforce. If you're builing a 400HP mud buggy, maybe centerforce is the way to go, for a 2F or even a mildly built V8, I'd go with Toyota. As for adjustment.... The manual is pretty clear but basically you want a bit of freeplay in the system when your foot is off the pedal. There are three adjustments: The clevis attached to the pedal, the length of the slave cyl rod, and the fork pivot mounted in the bellhousing. If its a Toyota clutch fork/slave/pressure plate assembly, don't mess with the pivot bolt - besides its a PITA to get to. Adjust the pedal clevis so the pedal has an inch of free stroke before it gets harder to push. Then check the slave cyl undeneath. There should be a helper spring that keeps the release fork in contact with the slave cyl rod. Pop the spring off and check for a bit of free play in the fork. You want to feel that the slave cyl isn't keeping the fork pressed against the pressure plate. A quarter inch of movement at the slave cyl is fine. Put the spring back on and check it out. The clutch should engage around midstroke of the pedal - not at the floor, not at top of stroke.
 
No clutch fork spring for mid 84 models and up. (Though I think there should be...)

I second using OEM or similar.

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