Kenwood DDX 6019 in to 99LX470
- Thread starter LXRunner
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- Thread starter
- #2
Problems
Next step of installation – wiring and faceplate. There are enough places on the web to get connector adapter and any kind of hardware for LC100, but I found absolutely nothing for LX470. Unfortunately LX has different connector (for Nakamichi ) than LC100, and there are no faceplates compatible with LX center cluster (It is curved on top and has wider opening).
Kenwood unit comes with connector with flaying wires.
I used that to build my adapter to LX470 Radio receiver connector.
Now, let’s see some pin out and wire color data about this connectors:
99LX470 Radio receiver connector
Pin Color Name
01 WHT +B
02 BLU/YEL +B2
03 n/c
04 GRN ILL
05 BLK/RED ANT+
06 PNK FL+
07 n/c
08 RED RR+
09 BLK RL+
10 GRY ACC
11 BRN E
12 n/c
13 WHT/GRN ILL
14 BLK/RED AMP+
15 ORG MUTE
16 GRN BEEP
17 BLU FR-
18 LT GRN FR+
19 VIO FL-
20 n/c
21 WHT RR-
22 YEL RL-
Kenwood DDX 6019 connector
Pin Color Name
01 BLK GND
02 RED Ignition
03 BLU/WHT Power Contr.
04 BLU Ant. Contr.
05 n/c
06 n/c
07 n/c
08 GRY FL+speaker
09 GRY/BLK FL+speaker
10 WHT/BLK FL+speaker
11 WHT FL+speaker
12 YEL Battery
13 ORG/WHT Illumination
14 BRN MUTE
15 PNK/BLK Ext. Contr.
16 LT BLU/YEL Remote Contr.
17 LT GRN Prk. SW
18 PRPL/WHT REVERSE
19 PRPL RR+speaker
20 PRPL/BLK FL+speaker
21 GRN/BLK FL+speaker
22 GRN RL+speaker
The wiring from Radio receiver connector mostly goes to Nakamichi amplifier (it is under Fr. Pass. seat). Best way to access it – remove the seat (just four bolts & connector). Amplifier has 4 connectors in row:
Connector "A" – mostly has different kind of Power and Ground pins;
Connector "B" – wired to all speakers except subwoofer;
Connector "C" – wired to subwoofer only;
Connector "D" – mostly amplifier linear inputs:
Amplifier connector "A":
Pin Color Name
01 BRN GND1
02 BLU/YEL +B1
03 n/c
04 BRN GND2
05 BLU/YEL +B2
06 GRY ACC
07 ORG MUTE
08 GRY ACC0
09 WHT +B0
Amplifier connector "B":
Pin Color Name
01 LT GRN FR+
02 PNK FL+
03 n/c
04 RED RR+
05 BLK RL+
06 BLU FR-
07 VIO FL-
08 n/c
09 n/c
10 n/c
11 n/c
12 WHT RR-
13 YEL RL-
Amplifier connector "C":
Pin Color Name
01 BLU/BLK WF1+
02 BLU/RED WF1-
03 n/c
04 n/c
05 n/c
06 BLU/WHT WF2+
07 BLU/YEL WF2-
08 n/c
09 n/c
10 n/c
11 n/c
12 n/c
13 n/c
14 n/c
Amplifier connector "D":
Pin Color Name
01 n/c
02 n/c
03 LT GRN FR+
04 BLK RL+
05 RED RR+
06 BLK/RED AMP
07 GRN BEEP
08 BLU FR-
09 VIO FL-
10 PNK FL+
11 NCA SDG1
12 NCA SDG2
13 YEL RL-
14 WHT RR-
I hope this data along with following pictures gives adequate way to recognize who is who and if necessary, easy adapt it to any aftermarket unit.
Next step of installation – wiring and faceplate. There are enough places on the web to get connector adapter and any kind of hardware for LC100, but I found absolutely nothing for LX470. Unfortunately LX has different connector (for Nakamichi ) than LC100, and there are no faceplates compatible with LX center cluster (It is curved on top and has wider opening).
Kenwood unit comes with connector with flaying wires.
I used that to build my adapter to LX470 Radio receiver connector.
Now, let’s see some pin out and wire color data about this connectors:
99LX470 Radio receiver connector
Pin Color Name
01 WHT +B
02 BLU/YEL +B2
03 n/c
04 GRN ILL
05 BLK/RED ANT+
06 PNK FL+
07 n/c
08 RED RR+
09 BLK RL+
10 GRY ACC
11 BRN E
12 n/c
13 WHT/GRN ILL
14 BLK/RED AMP+
15 ORG MUTE
16 GRN BEEP
17 BLU FR-
18 LT GRN FR+
19 VIO FL-
20 n/c
21 WHT RR-
22 YEL RL-
Kenwood DDX 6019 connector
Pin Color Name
01 BLK GND
02 RED Ignition
03 BLU/WHT Power Contr.
04 BLU Ant. Contr.
05 n/c
06 n/c
07 n/c
08 GRY FL+speaker
09 GRY/BLK FL+speaker
10 WHT/BLK FL+speaker
11 WHT FL+speaker
12 YEL Battery
13 ORG/WHT Illumination
14 BRN MUTE
15 PNK/BLK Ext. Contr.
16 LT BLU/YEL Remote Contr.
17 LT GRN Prk. SW
18 PRPL/WHT REVERSE
19 PRPL RR+speaker
20 PRPL/BLK FL+speaker
21 GRN/BLK FL+speaker
22 GRN RL+speaker
The wiring from Radio receiver connector mostly goes to Nakamichi amplifier (it is under Fr. Pass. seat). Best way to access it – remove the seat (just four bolts & connector). Amplifier has 4 connectors in row:
Connector "A" – mostly has different kind of Power and Ground pins;
Connector "B" – wired to all speakers except subwoofer;
Connector "C" – wired to subwoofer only;
Connector "D" – mostly amplifier linear inputs:
Amplifier connector "A":
Pin Color Name
01 BRN GND1
02 BLU/YEL +B1
03 n/c
04 BRN GND2
05 BLU/YEL +B2
06 GRY ACC
07 ORG MUTE
08 GRY ACC0
09 WHT +B0
Amplifier connector "B":
Pin Color Name
01 LT GRN FR+
02 PNK FL+
03 n/c
04 RED RR+
05 BLK RL+
06 BLU FR-
07 VIO FL-
08 n/c
09 n/c
10 n/c
11 n/c
12 WHT RR-
13 YEL RL-
Amplifier connector "C":
Pin Color Name
01 BLU/BLK WF1+
02 BLU/RED WF1-
03 n/c
04 n/c
05 n/c
06 BLU/WHT WF2+
07 BLU/YEL WF2-
08 n/c
09 n/c
10 n/c
11 n/c
12 n/c
13 n/c
14 n/c
Amplifier connector "D":
Pin Color Name
01 n/c
02 n/c
03 LT GRN FR+
04 BLK RL+
05 RED RR+
06 BLK/RED AMP
07 GRN BEEP
08 BLU FR-
09 VIO FL-
10 PNK FL+
11 NCA SDG1
12 NCA SDG2
13 YEL RL-
14 WHT RR-
I hope this data along with following pictures gives adequate way to recognize who is who and if necessary, easy adapt it to any aftermarket unit.
Nice work and thanks for sharing what you learned.
I look forward to seeing the end result.
I look forward to seeing the end result.
I cut out the center faceplate of a standard landcruiser and glued it in ,it turned out very well.
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #5
Kenwood DDX 6019 installation
DDX 6019 has integrated 50W x 4 amplifiers and 6 linear outputs (including for subwoofer).
I decided to remove original Nakamichi amplifier and use DDX 6019 amplifiers with existing speakers.
I’m going to buy new Kenwood amplifier to replace old one for subwoofer only. Here is the way I did it:
1. Disconnect Battery (so you may save some fuses)
2. Remove center cluster – Just gently pry it with wide screwdriver.
3. Disconnect all cables from cluster.
4. Remove Radio assembly – 4 screws (do not forget to unplug 2 antenna cables)
5. Remove from radio two side brackets (you will need to reuse them on new unit)
6. Disassemble old unit and carefully cut off its connector. Use good cutters on it and try to leave pins
as long as possible. Now it is ready to solder wires from Kenwood connector. Do not forget to insulate each pin.
Make that adapter about 6 in. long. (Alternative way – to crimp Kenwood wire harness directly
- is not recommended because adapter gives you easy way to fix or modify wiring in future).
7. Use picture of connectors and following chart to build adapter:
99LX470 Radio receiver connector to Kenwood DDX 6019 connector
Pin / Color / Name Pin / Color / Name
02 BLU/YEL +B2 connected to 12 YEL Battery
04 GRN ILL connected to 13 ORG/WHT Illumination
05 BLK/RED ANT+ connected to 04 BLU Ant. Contr.
06 PNK FL+ connected to 11 WHT FL+speaker
08 RED RR+ connected to 19 PRPL RR+speaker
09 BLK RL+ connected to 22 GRN RL+speaker
10 GRY ACC connected to 02 RED Ignition
11 BRN E connected to 01 BLK GND
11 BRN E connected to 17 LT GRN Prk. SW
17 BLU FR- connected to 09 GRY/BLK FL+speaker
18 LT GRN FR+ connected to 08 GRY FL+speaker
19 VIO FL- connected to 10 WHT/BLK FL+speaker
21 WHT RR- connected to 20 PRPL/BLK FL+speaker
22 YEL RL- connected to 21 GRN/BLK FL+speaker
Note: pin 17 of DDX 6019 must be connected to Parking SW as safety future, but
I grounded it for my personal needs. That way gives me unlimited unit functionality any time.
Original wire harness from Radio receiver connector to Amplifier has gauge enough to serve for speakers.
All I need to do – just redirect signals on connectors remaining from toasted Amplifier.
1. Take off four bolts and remove Amplifier along with bracket.
2. Use picture of connectors and following chart to cut off wires from connectors and then crimp them together:
Amplifier connector “B” to Amplifier connector “D”
Pin / Color / Name Pin / Color / Name
01 LT GRN FR+ connected to 03 LT GRN FR+
02 PNK FL+ connected to 10 PNK FL+
04 RED RR+ connected to 05 RED RR+
05 BLK RL+ connected to 04 BLK RL+
06 BLU FR- connected to 08 BLU FR-
07 VIO FL- connected to 09 VIO FL-
12 WHT RR- connected to 14 WHT RR-
13 YEL RL- connected to 13 YEL RL-
Amplifier connector “A” to Amplifier connector “A”
Pin / Color / Name Pin / Color / Name
06 GRY ACC connected to 08 GRY ACC0
3. When wiring is done, remove or insulate all remaining unused wires.
4. Reuse two side brackets from old Nakamichi unit for Kenwood. Attach new unit to wire harness.
Use bigger antenna plug for radio. (Smaller must be insulated and tied to wire harness).
5. Install new unit back to original place in center console. There is some room for wire harness just behind and under unit.
6. Reconnect the Battery and test unit functionality.
7. Reinstall Fr. Pass. Seat (Good option - don’t do it if annoying passengers are common)
8. Use perforated aluminum sheet metal to make faceplate (easy to cut and bend it
in shape of back side opening of 99LX center cluster). Leave adequate gap for free moving of Units tilted front panel.
Then I used black leather that is self sticky on back side, to wrap it around aluminum. You can use any preferable material and some glue to finish that.
9. Simple and easy way to mount faceplate to back side of center cluster:
You need 7-9 small screws and following pictures for reference:
10. Finally, connect and snap center cluster back to console. If necessary to adjust gaps between Unit and faceplate,
it is easy to bend unit brackets or use shims (washers) on screws under bracket.
DDX 6019 has integrated 50W x 4 amplifiers and 6 linear outputs (including for subwoofer).
I decided to remove original Nakamichi amplifier and use DDX 6019 amplifiers with existing speakers.
I’m going to buy new Kenwood amplifier to replace old one for subwoofer only. Here is the way I did it:
1. Disconnect Battery (so you may save some fuses)
2. Remove center cluster – Just gently pry it with wide screwdriver.
3. Disconnect all cables from cluster.
4. Remove Radio assembly – 4 screws (do not forget to unplug 2 antenna cables)
5. Remove from radio two side brackets (you will need to reuse them on new unit)
6. Disassemble old unit and carefully cut off its connector. Use good cutters on it and try to leave pins
as long as possible. Now it is ready to solder wires from Kenwood connector. Do not forget to insulate each pin.
Make that adapter about 6 in. long. (Alternative way – to crimp Kenwood wire harness directly
- is not recommended because adapter gives you easy way to fix or modify wiring in future).
7. Use picture of connectors and following chart to build adapter:
99LX470 Radio receiver connector to Kenwood DDX 6019 connector
Pin / Color / Name Pin / Color / Name
02 BLU/YEL +B2 connected to 12 YEL Battery
04 GRN ILL connected to 13 ORG/WHT Illumination
05 BLK/RED ANT+ connected to 04 BLU Ant. Contr.
06 PNK FL+ connected to 11 WHT FL+speaker
08 RED RR+ connected to 19 PRPL RR+speaker
09 BLK RL+ connected to 22 GRN RL+speaker
10 GRY ACC connected to 02 RED Ignition
11 BRN E connected to 01 BLK GND
11 BRN E connected to 17 LT GRN Prk. SW
17 BLU FR- connected to 09 GRY/BLK FL+speaker
18 LT GRN FR+ connected to 08 GRY FL+speaker
19 VIO FL- connected to 10 WHT/BLK FL+speaker
21 WHT RR- connected to 20 PRPL/BLK FL+speaker
22 YEL RL- connected to 21 GRN/BLK FL+speaker
Note: pin 17 of DDX 6019 must be connected to Parking SW as safety future, but
I grounded it for my personal needs. That way gives me unlimited unit functionality any time.
Original wire harness from Radio receiver connector to Amplifier has gauge enough to serve for speakers.
All I need to do – just redirect signals on connectors remaining from toasted Amplifier.
1. Take off four bolts and remove Amplifier along with bracket.
2. Use picture of connectors and following chart to cut off wires from connectors and then crimp them together:
Amplifier connector “B” to Amplifier connector “D”
Pin / Color / Name Pin / Color / Name
01 LT GRN FR+ connected to 03 LT GRN FR+
02 PNK FL+ connected to 10 PNK FL+
04 RED RR+ connected to 05 RED RR+
05 BLK RL+ connected to 04 BLK RL+
06 BLU FR- connected to 08 BLU FR-
07 VIO FL- connected to 09 VIO FL-
12 WHT RR- connected to 14 WHT RR-
13 YEL RL- connected to 13 YEL RL-
Amplifier connector “A” to Amplifier connector “A”
Pin / Color / Name Pin / Color / Name
06 GRY ACC connected to 08 GRY ACC0
3. When wiring is done, remove or insulate all remaining unused wires.
4. Reuse two side brackets from old Nakamichi unit for Kenwood. Attach new unit to wire harness.
Use bigger antenna plug for radio. (Smaller must be insulated and tied to wire harness).
5. Install new unit back to original place in center console. There is some room for wire harness just behind and under unit.
6. Reconnect the Battery and test unit functionality.
7. Reinstall Fr. Pass. Seat (Good option - don’t do it if annoying passengers are common)
8. Use perforated aluminum sheet metal to make faceplate (easy to cut and bend it
in shape of back side opening of 99LX center cluster). Leave adequate gap for free moving of Units tilted front panel.
Then I used black leather that is self sticky on back side, to wrap it around aluminum. You can use any preferable material and some glue to finish that.
9. Simple and easy way to mount faceplate to back side of center cluster:
You need 7-9 small screws and following pictures for reference:
10. Finally, connect and snap center cluster back to console. If necessary to adjust gaps between Unit and faceplate,
it is easy to bend unit brackets or use shims (washers) on screws under bracket.
- Thread starter
- #6
KNA G510 – Nav. System installation
KNA G510 GPS Nav. Unit is a really small “Black Box” with few connectors and flip cover for SD card slot.
DDX 6019 has special GPS Data connector for KNA G510 that makes installation easy with couple of beers.
Here is the way I did it:
1. Disconnect Battery (If its too old may be right time to recycle it?
)
2. Remove glove box door (two screws on bottom).
3. Remove center cluster – Just gently pry it with wide screwdriver.
4. Disconnect all cables from cluster.
5. Remove DDX 6019 unit and unplug wire harness adapter.
6. Take GPS Antenna assembly and drop end of its cable along with connector
in to the little gap near to base of Left Front Pillar. If necessary, remove Pillar Handle (2 screws)
and pry off the Pillar. It is pretty tight room under dash, but try to catch end of that cable
and gently pull it all way down and run it toward glove box. Then leave it little loose and attach
to existing wire harness with tie raps. Put adhesive magnetic pad (included) in to far left dash corner
and place Antenna on top of it.
7. Plug in Antenna, Data & Power cables (included) in to GPS unit.
8. Place GPS unit between AC evaporator and fan on one side and glove box door lower mounting rail
on the other side. The side with connectors should be faced toward to front of vehicle with all wires
directed up. The side with SD card flip door must be faced down. On the spots where rail touching
corner of GPS, apply small pieces of “Welcro” tape to prevent rattling noise. That location for GPS is
right fit for it and tight enough to hold it – no any brackets needed.
9. Run Data and Power cables from GPS toward to Head Unit, hiding them under dash.
10. Plug GPS Data cable directly to Head Unit - there is no way for mistakes.
11. Crimp GPS Power cable wires in accordance with labels on them to Radio receiver connector:
BATT (YEL) – to pin 02 (BLU/YEL); ACC (RED) – to pin 10 (GRY); GND (BLK) – to pin 11 (BRN)
PRK SW (LT GRN) – to pin 11 (BRN)
12. Attach Kenwood unit to wire harness. Use bigger antenna plug for radio.
13. Install Unit back to original place in center console. There is some room for wire harness
just behind and under unit.
14. Reconnect the Battery and test GPS functionality.
15. Finally, connect and snap center cluster back to console. Put glove box door back on its place.
Note: PRK SW (LT GRN) from KNA G510 must be connected to Parking SW as safety future, but
I grounded it for my personal needs. That way gives me unlimited unit functionality any time.
KNA G510 GPS Nav. Unit is a really small “Black Box” with few connectors and flip cover for SD card slot.
DDX 6019 has special GPS Data connector for KNA G510 that makes installation easy with couple of beers.
Here is the way I did it:
1. Disconnect Battery (If its too old may be right time to recycle it?
)2. Remove glove box door (two screws on bottom).
3. Remove center cluster – Just gently pry it with wide screwdriver.
4. Disconnect all cables from cluster.
5. Remove DDX 6019 unit and unplug wire harness adapter.
6. Take GPS Antenna assembly and drop end of its cable along with connector
in to the little gap near to base of Left Front Pillar. If necessary, remove Pillar Handle (2 screws)
and pry off the Pillar. It is pretty tight room under dash, but try to catch end of that cable
and gently pull it all way down and run it toward glove box. Then leave it little loose and attach
to existing wire harness with tie raps. Put adhesive magnetic pad (included) in to far left dash corner
and place Antenna on top of it.
7. Plug in Antenna, Data & Power cables (included) in to GPS unit.
8. Place GPS unit between AC evaporator and fan on one side and glove box door lower mounting rail
on the other side. The side with connectors should be faced toward to front of vehicle with all wires
directed up. The side with SD card flip door must be faced down. On the spots where rail touching
corner of GPS, apply small pieces of “Welcro” tape to prevent rattling noise. That location for GPS is
right fit for it and tight enough to hold it – no any brackets needed.
9. Run Data and Power cables from GPS toward to Head Unit, hiding them under dash.
10. Plug GPS Data cable directly to Head Unit - there is no way for mistakes.
11. Crimp GPS Power cable wires in accordance with labels on them to Radio receiver connector:
BATT (YEL) – to pin 02 (BLU/YEL); ACC (RED) – to pin 10 (GRY); GND (BLK) – to pin 11 (BRN)
PRK SW (LT GRN) – to pin 11 (BRN)
12. Attach Kenwood unit to wire harness. Use bigger antenna plug for radio.
13. Install Unit back to original place in center console. There is some room for wire harness
just behind and under unit.
14. Reconnect the Battery and test GPS functionality.
15. Finally, connect and snap center cluster back to console. Put glove box door back on its place.
Note: PRK SW (LT GRN) from KNA G510 must be connected to Parking SW as safety future, but
I grounded it for my personal needs. That way gives me unlimited unit functionality any time.
Nice work & writeup. I love my 7019 & 510. I just took my first real trip & need to figure out how to get it to not tell me repeatedly to stay on a road I am already on.
I drove from Phoenix to L.A. & back & it says 3x per event "stay on I10 left" Annoying.
I drove from Phoenix to L.A. & back & it says 3x per event "stay on I10 left" Annoying.
- Thread starter
- #10
Thanks for respond, 94landcruiser
Yeah! Sometimes on the long road you getting tired, sleepy, and don’t remember who are you and where you go.
And then you hear sudden GPS voice:
“Tha-da! Hey Dude, Keep this way! We go to Phoenix!”
I found, my 510 gives same reminders like yours in case if there are some line merges to exit ahead and it is trying to keep you in line that won’t go to wrong .
Usually it remains me just once.
Yeah! Sometimes on the long road you getting tired, sleepy, and don’t remember who are you and where you go.
And then you hear sudden GPS voice:
“Tha-da! Hey Dude, Keep this way! We go to Phoenix!”
I found, my 510 gives same reminders like yours in case if there are some line merges to exit ahead and it is trying to keep you in line that won’t go to wrong .
Usually it remains me just once.
Here's mine
Enjoy your new system.
Last edited:
Thanks LXRunner,
It was an easy job ,I simply cut out the radio faceplate from a lancruiser than I ground it down a bit to fit on the inside of the LX faceplate and used hot glue from the inside to glue it in. This way it is reversible if I want to fit the original deck back in.
By the way great writeup and install. Well done!!!
It was an easy job ,I simply cut out the radio faceplate from a lancruiser than I ground it down a bit to fit on the inside of the LX faceplate and used hot glue from the inside to glue it in. This way it is reversible if I want to fit the original deck back in.
By the way great writeup and install. Well done!!!
Hi,
I'm new here. We just bought a 2001 LX470 knowing the CD Changer was inoperable.
Since I don't care about NAV and we are planning to get some other rear DVD solution(s) for the kids, I have ordered a Kenwood DPX302 2 din CD receiver.
My question for LXRunner is: why did you decide to bypass the ML/Nacamichi amplifier?
Isn't the ML amp 8 channel plus sub? With built in active crossover? Aren't the (8) speakers all discreet (no passive crossover).
Or is it that the amp is only 4 channels plus sub and the 3 speaker arrays that are in the front have some sort of passive crossover?
I thought I read somewhere that the amp is 8 channel.
Please help me I'm ignorant. Perhaps I am making assumptions that aren't so.
I'm new here. We just bought a 2001 LX470 knowing the CD Changer was inoperable.
Since I don't care about NAV and we are planning to get some other rear DVD solution(s) for the kids, I have ordered a Kenwood DPX302 2 din CD receiver.
My question for LXRunner is: why did you decide to bypass the ML/Nacamichi amplifier?
Isn't the ML amp 8 channel plus sub? With built in active crossover? Aren't the (8) speakers all discreet (no passive crossover).
Or is it that the amp is only 4 channels plus sub and the 3 speaker arrays that are in the front have some sort of passive crossover?
I thought I read somewhere that the amp is 8 channel.
Please help me I'm ignorant. Perhaps I am making assumptions that aren't so.
Hi bcollins,
You can hook up the factory amp and speakers to the aftermarket deck, I did that and it sounds great.
You can hook up the factory amp and speakers to the aftermarket deck, I did that and it sounds great.
- Thread starter
- #16
Yes, you can use factory amp!
Hi, bcollins.
Welcome to the forum!
I decide to bypass Nakamichi AMP for one only good reason: somehow it was blown since I have my LX and at medium loud level delivered a lot of sound distortions
.
I hope it’s fixable and some day I’ll put it back. BTW, it has 6channels total:
LF (speaker + tweeter); RF (speaker + tweeter); LR speaker; RR speaker and two channels for sub (2 speakers). No any passive crossovers for tweeters. Look closer on amplifier connector diagram.
I think if you will use really great existing amplifier, it’s much easier to wire up new Kenwood unit.
Hi, bcollins.
Welcome to the forum!
I decide to bypass Nakamichi AMP for one only good reason: somehow it was blown since I have my LX and at medium loud level delivered a lot of sound distortions
. I hope it’s fixable and some day I’ll put it back. BTW, it has 6channels total:
LF (speaker + tweeter); RF (speaker + tweeter); LR speaker; RR speaker and two channels for sub (2 speakers). No any passive crossovers for tweeters. Look closer on amplifier connector diagram.
I think if you will use really great existing amplifier, it’s much easier to wire up new Kenwood unit.
good job.
Excellent write up with lots of detail. I've been thinking of the same type of replacement with NAV and DVD. All this info will come in handy when making my decision.
Where did you find the Land Cruiser faceplate that you said you cut in order to fill in around the new stereo? Everyone I talk to says that it's impossible to install an aftermarket stereo in the LX470.
- Thread starter
- #20
1.[FONT="] [/FONT]Pray off center dash panel and install your new radio.
2.[FONT="] [/FONT]Place back Dash panel and measure the gaps on top and both left and right sides
3.[FONT="] [/FONT]Fabricate thin metal cover (I used easy to cut perforated aluminum from Home Depot), that will fill the gaps on top and both left and right sides
4.[FONT="] [/FONT]Wrap it with some nice looking material (I used kind of black leather with self-adhesive back side)
5.[FONT="] [/FONT]Then I used few little screws in the way they pushing and holding new cower against back side of the center dash panel opening – look closer on my pictures !
It is really
job takes about 30min and
2.[FONT="] [/FONT]Place back Dash panel and measure the gaps on top and both left and right sides
3.[FONT="] [/FONT]Fabricate thin metal cover (I used easy to cut perforated aluminum from Home Depot), that will fill the gaps on top and both left and right sides
4.[FONT="] [/FONT]Wrap it with some nice looking material (I used kind of black leather with self-adhesive back side)
5.[FONT="] [/FONT]Then I used few little screws in the way they pushing and holding new cower against back side of the center dash panel opening – look closer on my pictures !
It is really
job takes about 30min and 
