Just checking that this is all that is needed to swap a 3 speed from colum shift to floor...
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3 speed colum to floor
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Yup. That's it. When removing my column linkage, I unbolted most of it, sawzalled some of it, but I left out a long bolt that also held the clutch slave. When I depressed the clutch the slave rotated and dumped out the piston and a bunch of fluid. NBD, but didn't have to happen if I'd paid attention.
Gl
Ed
Gl
Ed
You might want to get a top cover gasket in case the original one breaks, but careful application of RTV will work too.
Buy a gallon or 2 of gear oil and change the tranny and tcase. The refill is WAY easier to do while the tranny cover is off already.
And a shift knob.
You may also need special tools (like a sawzall) to get the column shifter out. I got mine out whole, but only because someone else wanted the parts. Otherwise it would have been easier to cut the shaft at the firewall.
Buy a gallon or 2 of gear oil and change the tranny and tcase. The refill is WAY easier to do while the tranny cover is off already.
And a shift knob.
You may also need special tools (like a sawzall) to get the column shifter out. I got mine out whole, but only because someone else wanted the parts. Otherwise it would have been easier to cut the shaft at the firewall.
Where do you get those pieces? Are they hard to come by? Would it be better to swap in a 4 speed?
from someone who has a floor shift 3spd that they are parting out....lever from a sm420 can be used, iirc, but the top cover has to come from a 3spd trans. also, specter and man afre sell the kits, but considerably higher dollar.tonkota said:
This whole project is simple to do.
Now is a good time to check the clearance of the two pins in the case top with the slots in the shifter. The two pins should be a pretty close fit but they wear. You can turn the pins 90 degrees and retighten them to give new(er) bearing surfaces a chance to do their shifter thing. Makes for a nicer tighter feeling shifter but isn't necessary to do.
There's a rubber boot that fits over that shifter tower in the part that's in your picture, and there's a shifter boot on the floor. The first keeps dirt mud and goo out of your tranny and the second keeps little breezes from blowing up your skirt to your cunny.
Anything you need for that business is still available new either OEM or aftermarket. It'll shift much better.
Keeping the vacuum operated transfer case allows for the use of two wheel drive low range, which is neat to have. The dash shift T/C also has some high cool factor.
Changing to a 4 speed is a whole 'nuther involved matter.
Now is a good time to check the clearance of the two pins in the case top with the slots in the shifter. The two pins should be a pretty close fit but they wear. You can turn the pins 90 degrees and retighten them to give new(er) bearing surfaces a chance to do their shifter thing. Makes for a nicer tighter feeling shifter but isn't necessary to do.
There's a rubber boot that fits over that shifter tower in the part that's in your picture, and there's a shifter boot on the floor. The first keeps dirt mud and goo out of your tranny and the second keeps little breezes from blowing up your skirt to your cunny.
Anything you need for that business is still available new either OEM or aftermarket. It'll shift much better.
Keeping the vacuum operated transfer case allows for the use of two wheel drive low range, which is neat to have. The dash shift T/C also has some high cool factor.
Changing to a 4 speed is a whole 'nuther involved matter.
