87 FJ60, all smog equipment in place.
As you guys may have read I failed first try. It was running rich (high CO numbers). All I did was tune the carb per the engine manual (lean drop, idle and fast idle adjustment). Easy, takes all of 1-2 hours.
Some History:
This was my first inspection. I've had the truck about a year.
Way before the inspection I had replaced all my vacuum lines. This caused my idle to run fast (no more vac leaking I guess). To compensate I had messed with the idle adjustment screw to get it to idle better but that was it. Truck ran ok but idle was still erratic and if anything too fast. And then it would occasionally not idle at all, it would die. I would have to keep the choke out to keep it from dying when stopping at lights and such. I could also pull out my choke all the way and get up to around 2200rpm.
My first results:
HC PPM IDLE: 74/220
HC PPM 2500 RPM: 59/220
CO% IDLE: 3.46/1.20
CO% 2500 RPM: 2.46/1.20
After the Lean Drop and idle tune:
HC PPM IDLE: 46/220
HC PPM 2500 RPM: 139/220
CO% IDLE: 0.03/1.20
CO% 2500 RPM: 0.51/1.20
So that's it. PASSED! As you can see it's burning less fuel more efficiently and idling slower and better.
I've read a ton of stuff on this site pertaining to this issue. I have yet to see anyone just recommend a carb tune-up. Guys, it may be just as simple as that. No hocus pocus oil changes, almost empty tank, or reroute hoses crap. Just tune your carb. Don't be scared. It's not too bad at all.
https://forum.ih8mud.com/showpost.php?p=2119710&postcount=37
If you've desmogged to try to pass or desmogged and failed, well, I'm sorry but you're SOL. You dug your own grave on that one. So much for resale.
I can scan the procedure if you guys would like, and I can also take some detailed pics if that would help any of you (I'm sure it would).
Cheers!
As you guys may have read I failed first try. It was running rich (high CO numbers). All I did was tune the carb per the engine manual (lean drop, idle and fast idle adjustment). Easy, takes all of 1-2 hours.
Some History:
This was my first inspection. I've had the truck about a year.
Way before the inspection I had replaced all my vacuum lines. This caused my idle to run fast (no more vac leaking I guess). To compensate I had messed with the idle adjustment screw to get it to idle better but that was it. Truck ran ok but idle was still erratic and if anything too fast. And then it would occasionally not idle at all, it would die. I would have to keep the choke out to keep it from dying when stopping at lights and such. I could also pull out my choke all the way and get up to around 2200rpm.
My first results:
HC PPM IDLE: 74/220
HC PPM 2500 RPM: 59/220
CO% IDLE: 3.46/1.20
CO% 2500 RPM: 2.46/1.20
After the Lean Drop and idle tune:
HC PPM IDLE: 46/220
HC PPM 2500 RPM: 139/220
CO% IDLE: 0.03/1.20
CO% 2500 RPM: 0.51/1.20
So that's it. PASSED! As you can see it's burning less fuel more efficiently and idling slower and better.
I've read a ton of stuff on this site pertaining to this issue. I have yet to see anyone just recommend a carb tune-up. Guys, it may be just as simple as that. No hocus pocus oil changes, almost empty tank, or reroute hoses crap. Just tune your carb. Don't be scared. It's not too bad at all.
https://forum.ih8mud.com/showpost.php?p=2119710&postcount=37
If you've desmogged to try to pass or desmogged and failed, well, I'm sorry but you're SOL. You dug your own grave on that one. So much for resale.
I can scan the procedure if you guys would like, and I can also take some detailed pics if that would help any of you (I'm sure it would).
Cheers!