where is the pcv?

HI,
I am trying to fix some things, and i cant find where the pcv valve goes. I know its on the cylinder head, but i cant find it.
Can someone explain to me where it is as precise as possible, cuz i am a newbie

thankx

pcv

The pcv valve is on the passenger side of the block. It is towards the firewall end of the block coming out of a reverse "j" shaped tube connected directly into the block. It is kinda hard to see if you don't know where it is as it blends right into the hoses and dirt and such, but once you see it you'll wonder how you missed it.

I just found mine the other day with the help of this board.

Good luck.

When you replace the grommet that the pcv is seated in, be very careful not to let it crumble into the tube and fall into the block. It is rubber and gets very hard and brittle with time and heat and can be a real pain to get out.

I shoved some shop towel down through the opening of the grommet into the tube to block the passage and then used a flathead screwdriver to kind of cut through the grommet and made sure it was free. Then I used a slide hammer to break it completely free and some needlenose pliers to extract it.

worked like a charm.

https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=37592&highlight=pcv

https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=86168&highlight=pcv

https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=19350&highlight=pcv

https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=18276&highlight=pcv

just some old food for thought

What happens if you get grommet bits get lost in the pipe?

LowcountryTLC said:

What happens if you get grommet bits get lost in the pipe?

Click to expand...

i wouldn't worry about it. but get a new grommet

DocuDude said:

HI,
I am trying to fix some things, and i cant find where the pcv valve goes. I know its on the cylinder head, but i cant find it.
Can someone explain to me where it is as precise as possible, cuz i am a newbie

thankx

Click to expand...

Need a pic? I was a bit lost when I first looked for it but, I just did my second replacement so I can send you a pic with the shiny new one in there...
By the way I got a standar Purolator one, the original one was a heavier brass typ valve. Is it that necessary to use the heavy duty one? What's the difference? Anyone?

hope this pic helps

et3surge said:

Need a pic? I was a bit lost when I first looked for it but, I just did my second replacement so I can send you a pic with the shiny new one in there...
By the way I got a standar Purolator one, the original one was a heavier brass typ valve. Is it that necessary to use the heavy duty one? What's the difference? Anyone?

Click to expand...

Yes, the cheapo parts store ones don't work as well as the OEM machined billet steel part. Typically, they leak too much air, which raises the idle speed and causes the engine to run a little raggedy. This is one part that is worth the $6 to get it from C-Dan.

On the bright side, the new OEM valve will never need replacing. They just need cleaned every year or two.

PS: Sergio, the vac hoses on the distributor advance are switched in the pic.

PCV stuck

FJ40Jim said:

Yes, the cheapo parts store ones don't work as well as the OEM machined billet steel part. Typically, they leak too much air, which raises the idle speed and causes the engine to run a little raggedy. This is one part that is worth the $6 to get it from C-Dan.

On the bright side, the new OEM valve will never need replacing. They just need cleaned every year or two.

PS: Sergio, the vac hoses on the distributor advance are switched in the pic.

Click to expand...

I just ordered a PCV valve and grommet from Cdan... Replacing this part, among others, will happen all at once. The thing is, I haven't been able to pull the old one to check it. Is there a method to doing so? It seems to be in there pretty tight! I'm guessing that there is either no grommet in there or the grommet has some how solidified and seized up the PCV in the "J" tube... Any clues?

Just keep pulling. They are a pretty snug fit and take some elbow grease to get them out sometimes.

pic

FJ40Jim said:

Yes, the cheapo parts store ones don't work as well as the OEM machined billet steel part. Typically, they leak too much air, which raises the idle speed and causes the engine to run a little raggedy. This is one part that is worth the $6 to get it from C-Dan.

On the bright side, the new OEM valve will never need replacing. They just need cleaned every year or two.

PS: Sergio, the vac hoses on the distributor advance are switched in the pic.

Click to expand...

I will have a look but I think they cross later in my routing of them...
Curious what would that cause? I have a bit of a Bucking problem when I get stuck in traffic too long. Usually at about 2000 RPM's 2-3rd gear. Maybe that's it if I am wrong about the vac lines...Sorry I won't hijack this thread with my stuff.
Ih8gas prices...

Sergio, the vac hose w/ the check valve is for the primary advance, that's the fitting closer to the distributor. The hose w/ no check is from HAC and that is the outer fitting on the dissy.

excellent thanks, I have been too busy and the truck is currently getting some floor covering done at an upholsteryt shop. I will definitely check.

FJ40Jim said:

Sergio, the vac hose w/ the check valve is for the primary advance, that's the fitting closer to the distributor. The hose w/ no check is from HAC and that is the outer fitting on the dissy.

Click to expand...

Hey Jim I failed to mention that you were absolutely correct I had a Yokel in there looking at some stuff and he apparently did not re-attach correctly. I did the swap and the bucking is also gone. Thanks again.

A big THANK YOU!!!!! to FJ40 Jim and et3surge for their unexpected help in sorting out my truck problem. The reversed vacuum hoses on the dizzy were exactly what was causing my problems. I just finished switching them to the correct positions and it's running great now.

I'm gonna drink a beer to both of ya!
Cheers.

ditto (i think)

jim - thanx... since i am still waiting for my aussie SM and the haynes does not actually show any info on the vacuum hoses to the dissy, i really appreciate the jpg and your comment re: reversed hoses. think maybe my prob with the rough idle sometimes and stalling after the motor is warmed up might also be solved.

when i saw the jpg and the comment i immediately went out to the car to scope it out. sure enough, those hoses were reversed like in sergio's jpg (the way they were when i bought the car). switched them out to put the check valve hose on the inside and took the cruiser for two quick spins. problem did not surface during those test rides and idle held steady at 650 as it was set in last tuning. not positive that it will not resurface and since you should be getting the carb from california to rebuild any day now... let me know if it is rebuildable (or needs to be rebuilt).

i think that the '80 service manual for the 2f does not have the dissy i have in my '86 anyway. so to check one more thing since i can not find it on sor and am way too lazy to read all of the hits on the search for distributor on this site...

the VENT/VACUUM HOSE NIPPLE ON THE TOP of the aftermarket distributor cap is for the distributor to 'breath' - is that correct? so it should have a vacuum hose on it, or be plugged or just left open?

thanx for the hijack. i knew there was a reason to follow this thread.

the VENT/VACUUM HOSE NIPPLE ON THE TOP of the aftermarket distributor cap is for the distributor to 'breath' - is that correct? so it should have a vacuum hose on it, or be plugged or just left open?

Yes, the vacuum comes from just below the air cleaner on the dist side of the engine...one of the hoses hooked up to that off-white plastic valve thing there, and the fresh air for the dist comes from a hose that runs from the firewall(and beyond that, the cabin) to the dist. The hoses(and the two fittings on the dist cap) are two different sizes which helps eliminate confusion when hooking them up. It's important for the long-term health of the dist internals to have this ventilation system working.

just one more little thing... & thanx for the hijack

took old blue out for a rather extended spin after making the correction jim noted. on the short runs yesterday it had shown none of the problems it previously had. but, of course on the extended cruise, as soon as it was too far to walk home, it again started the problem with not holding the rpm's correct on idle and stalling when i took my foot off the accelerator. it is amazing because sometimes it would run like a top and then all of a sudden it would start acting very cranky - sounding like it was missing on one cylinder or was out of time. then after turning it off and letting it sit for about 5 minutes it was fine again. thought this thing needed an exorcist!

when i got back to the house i checked the thread and pluton sounded like he pinpointed what another problem was. basically, far too many non-LC people have worked on this car for the PO. trying to straighten out what they did incorrectly has really had me stymied without the SM since the haynes manual tries to cover way too much stuff in far too few pages. hopefully my SM will arrive soon from australia and i can actually see the correct connections and routing for all of the vacuum hoses and other little ditties that have been rerouted or connected incorrectly.

the PO's last mechanic had taken off this vacuum hose (now formally named the Pluton Hose in old blue) and left a short stub hooked to the nipple on top of the dissy with a bolt in the hose to plug it. of course the hose was not long enough to reach up under the air cleaner to hook into that nipple where it was supposed to go, so a quick trip to the parts store solved that problem. now it is time for one more 'test drive'. at least on the way home it held its 650 rpm setting and did not stall.

we shall see if this is it or if the priest still needs to be called. having all the parts on disk in tiff format is no help if they do not show routing & attachments of vacuum lines. oh well, out for another spin to try to get this 126K mi '86 up to 200K without blowing up.