Mine was a pretty early kit so I think Joey @NLXTACY has added a lot of associated parts to his website since then. If I had it to do over again, I would call him up and get a turnkey kit. I have a tank mounted under the truck (below the driver's seat) and an outlet in the rear cargo area. The...
Finally got around to ordering YodaTEQ's burrito warmer and modifying it to fit with the excellent @NLXTACY Wits End York OBA setup. Hated to cut into the powdercoat because the finished product is beautiful, but it made the rest of the sh*t under the hood look bad by comparison so out came the...
Three years in, my Koso is working great. Tint in place, too. The only issue I had was the display flashing (indicating over-temp condition). Turns out it was a pinched wire grounding out the gauge.
I snapped the passenger rear Nitro axle at Choccolocco this weekend. The ACC gang were a huge help to get me back to camp where I dropped the driveshaft before making the ~2 hour drive home in my front-wheel-drive Toyota. :steer:
I put a double-din DVD-playing Kenwood unit. Due to the unit's significant depth, I was having issues with it pinching wires. I just installed the shallow chassis Alpine ILX-W650 and it provides all kinds of room for wiring.
I chased my tail on this issue for a bit then realized that the outside of my radiator was pretty well covered with fine, silty mud that -- as it turns out -- is quite a good insulator.
I installed extended brake lines but also added limit straps to keep the lines from getting yanked apart by accident. I'd rather lose articulation than braking.
My sensor is installed in the upper rad hose too. Unlike the stock sender, the Koso one only sees hot water once the thermostat opens. I believe the thermostat opens at 180 but closes again at a lower temp, leading you to see slightly lower temps in cold weather once it has first reached 180.
After a couple years of hot engine no-start problems, I finally broke down and installed the Painless 30202 this weekend. I really wish I would have started (pun intended) there, rather than all the parts I've thrown at the problem (starter, battery, ignition switch, battery-to-starter cable...
TL;DR version:
Customer:
- purchased disconnects
- ignored explicit instructions while installing parts because he didn't understand terms used in the instructions
- failed to seek clarification from manufacturer or other suspension expert
- went balls out on washboard roads
- ignored rattling...
Can you include a photo of how the pins were installed? How do you think they “popped?”
It’s no small thing that you heard the noise but didn’t pay attention to it because you thought it was something else broken on your truck.
On the front, this is possible because the bar's fixed points are on the frame, leaving the bar ends available to be pinned up out of the way (in other words, when disconnected the bar can't move). On the rear, the bar's fixed points are on the axle and the ends are attached to the frame. If...