I adjusted the valves to spec and timed it with the light gun at idle (many thanks to responses to my questions on how to get this far). Previous owner had done a "partial desmog" according to people who saw pictures. Now that the rebuild is done I want to know where I need to run vac tubes to...
Thanks - I'll do this.
If I hadn't got the distributor insertion angle just right when putting it in, could that be another reason I can't see the BB in the window?
if I don't have the block alignment dowels in - is that a big problem?
agreement I had with the machine shop was that I supply the parts and they do the work (they said parts were hard to get). So I got the cam, gears, lifters, pistons, rings and seal/gasket set and dropped it all off. when I got it back there was a few bits left over, some of which I've identified...
Update - started it today. Tried to time it with a light gun, couldn't seen the BB in the window at all - what could cause this please?
Tried to take it for a drive around the block - died pretty soon. No fuel in the bowl. Put it away to sleep on it and come back to it when work allows.
Thanks - I turned it by hand a couple of times already when I was adjusting the valves, seems to go OK.
I'll do that with the oil - have some 10W-30 left over. would that do?
This was a few weeks ago. As of today I have everything back in. Just got to connect the hoses and cables, add fluids and prime the oil... I think.
I adjusted the rockers/valves to spec. Shop that did the block recommended Lucas 20-50 hot rod oil for the break in.
How soon should I re-tighten...
They've been bored out now, and I can't find the pictures I took, but before I took the block in for machining I gambled that it was the head and had that done. There was no obvious damage to the cylinder walls that I could see when I took it off. I took a pic and sent it to a guy - he couldn't...
you think using 10W-30 is what trashed the pistons? getting some other advice that I can't really understand. Asked the shop that rebuilt it just now and they recommended lucas hot rod 20W-50 for a break in - what do you think please? Anything else I need to do once I get it all back together?
always used 10W-30 and changed every 3K miles, might have gotten low once, but it always went through a lot of oil. I always had a suspicion the rings were worn as oil used to gum up the air filter. IIRC I got it at 179K miles and a couple of years ago. I used to regularly have to remove and...
the 6th piston was the one getting <50 compression that prompted me to take the engine out and bring it in for a rebuild. it was confirmed as one of these two that were damaged. Can't remember which the other one was
Hi, Thanks for this. There was a problem with the mixture due to the carb float not floating. So it could be that. Both pistons had a section of the cylinder broken off. The engine is back now after a complete re-build and I'm going to try and put it in myself over the next few days,
I was driving around for a while with low compression on one of the cylinders, had no idea that the other one was bad too. Car has 199K on it Many thanks for any insight into how this happened and how to prevent in future.
Anything wrong with this rebuild kit?
ENGINE REBUILD KIT TOYOTA 2F 4.2 LTR – Mag Engines - https://magengines.com/product/engine-rebuild-kit-toyota-2f-4-2-ltr-2/
got a quote from one shop to do it for $4-5K, said that parts were very expensive
getting more quotes