All done except paint. The roll over was bad enough that even the window frame on the RH door was bent out over 1"!!
I managed to find a donor with clean rust free convertible doors, and another donor with rust free full doors. So summer
was convertible, and I just yesterday finished the...
Not that good!! I use a flapper wheel on my 4 1/2" grinder. Care has to be taken so as to not take the
surrounding material away. I use the 80 and 40 grit flapper disc. Mine are no name brand, I have some
that are made by JET Powerblend in 4 1/2" and 5". I also bought some glazing putty for...
Anyhow, after degreasing and power washing the t-case is good. Appears the oil filter was a slight bit loose.
All good. Back to finishing flare holes tomorrow.
Kind words, very much appreciated. Has me looking at the 'undamaged' side, and I know that the whole of the bottom
of the B pillar is the same. Ugh! Won't have time for it now. I've got to see about wheel well patch panels for BJ74,
I sure don't want to replace a whole panel for some rust...
So after 5-6 or 10 off and on prefits I got to the tacking and it is complete. About 25-30 hrs including the repairs
and fab of all the little bits and pieces. I used my Jack-all to cross push the top of the rear corner back 5/8". I got it
pushed to the right spot, one click and I heard metal...
Last 4 pics to round out the day. I went around and used weld through primer - good stuff from ProForm. Once that dried I
taped all the future spot weld lines over to protect them. I also got covered in seam sealer and did the inner wheel well seam
and all the other seams/welds that seemed...
Now I have to deal with the freakin' fender flare holes that come stock on the 73 series fenders. Understand, that this is a
1989 BJ74 but the fenders are obsolete. So I have a 73 series fender, which I guess are far more popular and still available.
But that leaves me with a bunch of holes...
Finally got to that cool stage of actual fitting and mocking up to ensure that things will slide together. I then took the ink pen
and marked out all the holes for punching and spot welding. I have a crap load of vice grips, and they are the mandatory tool for
this kind of stuff. After...
So back at it. I've been getting a bit of an idea of how to deal with the lighter 0.23 wire and 18 ga
metal. Got the welder dialed in and using lower power but 8-9 ft/min of wire speed and I boosted the gas.
So I got to finally rebuilding the lower lips of the outer wheelwell openings. Many...
Yeah, got the taillight housing spot welded in, and 98% of the rest done. I've got to punch the spot weld holes
in the new fender and then tack it in. I spent a grotty hour grinding the inner wheel well of useless undercoat
and seam sealer. I got to it in the nick of time, one more winter and...
Now I've started the small replacement piece for the outer wheel well at the rear. I'll finish it up tomorrow. There essentially isn't anything behind that. It will be nice and strong anyhow.
I cleaned up the taillight area again, and got that piece in. Had to ensure that its flat at the front so the taillight
bucket will fit cleanly.. I have to admit, I'm happy with how this turned out.
Well, got back at it. Finished the front B pillar stuff today. Lots of dicking around, had issues with the welder.
Finally sorted that out. I enjoy building these pieces, crude but effective.
I will check your thread. I did get the bits in a 3 pack. I'm done with them now I think. I tried to attach a photo from ipad
in the shop but the wifi too weak there. I'll add some pics in a bit. I've got to the make bits now stage. I bought a sheet
of 18 ga, and some .023 wire today, and of...
So I cut the bottom of internal bracing and did something that only modern technology can bring. Photo of internal rocker box using the top corner of iPad, backed up with a mini LED headlamp. Not as bad rust wise as I imagined, so I'm gonna brush it out and hit it with some rust paint, then...