I bought some of those clamps by mistake so I used four of them on the hoses going to the heater control valve. I used a pick to turn the cotter pin thing until it seemed tight. Figured if they leaked it was in a visible area and easy to replace. 5+ years later they are still there with no leaks.
Looks like air filter was my problem too. I swapped the filter from my LX450 into the Land Cruiser and the problem seems to have disappeared. The only reason I'm still skeptical is the LX450 isn't showing the same problems with the Land Cruiser filter. Maybe because the LX is about 1000 pounds...
I'll just take over this thread. Had some time after work to hook up the fuel pressure gauge. I mostly followed the FSM and checked the following pressures:
Idle: 34 psi, no spec for this measurement
Idle with pressure regulator disconnected: 42 psi, spec is 38 - 44psi
Idle after reconnecting...
@robnicko any updates? Your problem description sounds exactly like what I'm seeing on my Land Cruiser. I plan to check fuel pressure this weekend but was curious if you've resolved your issue.
Assume you are working on your LX450. First thing you need to do is download the EWD from the resources section.
https://forum.ih8mud.com/resources/1997-lx450-ewd.86/
You are looking for connector T10 which should be just to the left in your first picture.
T10-1 is tail light
T10-2 is brake...
Picked up a little Reed 103 last weekend. Tossed it in the ultrasonic cleaner then hit it with a wire wheel and it came out pretty good. Now I need to figure out what to do with it.
Use the procedure in the FSM to read the ABS codes, then you will know which sensor is the problem. In my case I had a loose rear wheel bearing. Tightened it up and the pulsing never returned.
You need to check your nuts, looks like they are loose and you caught the problem before complete failure. You'll will likely need to tear down that side, replace the seal and inspect the steering arm studs/cones/nuts.
If you are considering a different machine shop I would recommend talking to Autosport Seattle in Ballard. The machinist there knows Toyota and does a lot of the machine work for the local Toyota dealers. I had my Land Cruiser head done there and so far all is good. I did have to push a few...
I'm sure Toyota designed T4/T5/T6 for a trailer connector which is why they are referred to a "trailer socket" on the EWD.
Yes, the wires from T5 and T6 need to remain connected for the turn signals to work. You can see how it is done on the Draw-Tite harness where T5 and T6 mate with new...
I don't think a trailer harness is the best choice for what you are trying to do.
Check the diagrams for T4 connector. It provides brake/tail/backup signals. T4 is unused so you could find a mating connector and get the signals for everything but turn signals.
Turn signals are in the T5/T6...
On the two sets I've installed and the one in my garage waiting to be installed, both pads heat on hi and low settings. If you are running a single setting then you should only need to provide power and ground to the heater pads.
The set in my garage uses a variable ground to control the...
Doubt you will have any luck getting a video from Doug. Head over to youtube and look up OTRAMM. He's done a lot of good videos.
https://www.youtube.com/@OTRAMM