Sundowner, you've done some homework. Here is the treatise that was my foray into suspension tuning, if anyone wants additional reading on the topic.
https://motoiq.com/the-ultimate-handling-guide-part-8-understanding-your-caster-king-pin-inclination-and-scrub/5/
I do wonder if big truck rock...
Damn, with all of this said about the Toyota OEM fitment while maintaining the holes rather than spokes, then I'm back to the Nomad (convoy). Roverdude, what size tire are you rockin' on the 15" then? I'm sold on this route.
Will report back with how things go.
Like this: Wheel Sub Assembly Disc 42601-60262-03 | Toyota Parts Center - https://parts.olathetoyota.com/oem-parts/toyota-wheel-sub-assembly-disc-426016026203
Looking up the code, I am seeing different looking wheels some of which do indeed look like the nomads. I plan on calling toyota tomorrow with this PN in hand and seeing what they can get.
Jed, I definitely like those OEM steelies, I like sticking to stock-look in general. In my search I saw another long post about OEM options including those, but there seemed to be a lot of detailed info on what works/what wont so that's why I was going to go with the Nomads as a more potentially...
I should clarify: I WANT new wheels, and since I NEED new tires I'd like to get them both at the same time. I understand the wheels are not to blame (they just ugly).
While taking an clover-leaf exit from the highway in a light drizzling rain at a normal speed, I felt the rear end of my '91 PZJ70 get a little floaty. "That's weird" I thought as I immediately began checking my mirrors to see the location of the many other cars beside and behind me on this...
Looking at the Nomads for my 70 series as well, but probably in 16" to much stock wheel size. Does anyone know if these fitting the 60 series will translate to the 70 series as well? Bolt pattern is right but they are slightly wider rims than stock as far as I can tell.
Last thing to do is mount the voltage indicator that kicks on when I turn on the 12V supply/ham radio. Found these super cheap units off amazon. Has anyone happened to come across a switch blanking panel that happens to be a dark, smoked but translucent material? I don't want to cut up a stock...
Personally, I went with the converter as it was easier for me to wrap my head around, and gave me a 12V fuse panel that was easy to put in the cab with 24V leads through the firewall/thinner wires. Haven't tested the radio yet, just now got to wrapping up the details. I'm sure I'll need some...
Thats a topic tackled several times within this forum and others. This thread is specifically sharing how I was able to install my converter setup.
Good luck finding a 24v mobile ham radio.
Was also lucky to find an accessible but not obvious ground lug on the left side footwell, was an easy run to tap into that. Most of the main wiring for the converter and fuse panel is in. The converter has two grounds (12v and 24v), but they are shared with an internal bus bar. So I ran one...
You are probably right, they do look much more like pressurized lines, i.e. AC. Picture below where they come out, down low on the passenger (left) side footwell.
Got a lot of mounting and wiring in today. Used a piece of stainless scrap I had that worked out perfectly for a new mounting...
Thanks Jb, I'll give that a check. Routed a wire through the firewall by following what look like the heater lines, which gave me a shorter run and pop out right by the battery. Planning on routing it with a loop before going through the grommet to prevent water from following the wire into the...
Still waiting on harness stuff and converter. However, got the radios wrangled up into a double-din type thing. The radio came with the usual cage thing that the body would slip into, but the LC doesn't need those and mounts in a way I think is better. So I cut that cage part up and reused it to...
On further thought/research, answered my own questions (mostly).
1) Convert all loads to Watts, way easier to work with. On batt side, using 15A (360W) and on output side using 30A (also 360W). Both sides of converter are equally protected, which is probably overkill. I'll have plenty to cover...
Thought I would share my process for installing a 24V head unit and a separate 12V system to power a ham radio. I previously spent quite a bit of time getting acquainted with the condition of my power supply behind the dash. Discovered I had a 12V converter powering the old stereo (which has...
Thanks for the confirmation guys. From googling 70 series parts, I think the module in question is indeed a 24-12V converter and the preheat timer module is in a different location in my particular case. I also agree the converter in question is likely fried; I don't think anything would require...