Non-US models have the internal cut keys, and at least when I ordered mine were still available (obviously). The one thing I did not get was the glove box lock as part of the kit. If you have your glove box lock (with internal cut key) I would buy it off you in hopes I could match it to the set...
Do you have a dial caliper set? Or some other kind of similar measuring device? If so, check the movement (or lack there of) of the plunger. As it has already been said, the movement is very fine. But it should not be so fine that you cannot pick up a single step, even with the cheapest of dial...
Without hubs, I would guess the front is always turning. The shifter just controls wither it is under power or not. Put it on the lift and give the front driveline a spin by hand in the different positions.
Instead of pulling the battery terminal, does pulling the EFI relay for 5-10 minutes result in being able to start? I would also check the fusible link on the positive side, it could be that you are jostiling that just enough in the process.
It also is not just about voltage of the battery, but...
I have noticed that on my '93 the fuel pump only gets 12+v at start and right after shutting it off. No amount of acceleration or long pull will the relay kick it up to 12v.
I have replaced the relay and the resistor checks out. If I pull the pin to the ECU and ground it, it will get 12v. So...
When it is warmed up, the fuel pressure is low (either with the pump at low or high voltage) at ~30psi. Had the original FPR still and swapped it back and have the same pressure. I put the gauge on the inlet for the fuel rail so that pressure is after the filter. Now that it is nice and warmed...