Hello! New owner: JDM 100 series Diesel (7 Viewers)

[tetelestia]

I've had a few Toyota diesels before, and driven others. This is the first one I've imported though. I find the 100 series to be quite boring, but it makes anything else feel like a toy in comparison. I've gotten over the idea that mechanical diesels are better, and the 1HD-FTE is absolutely the best engine I've owned.

I had Mike from Forthright Trading help me find and bring it over. I had contacted one of the Alberta based importers as well, but Mike understood much better what I was hoping to find. He's not always open to more clients though.

I think the only "bad" surprise was that my truck seems to be a super rare model with no ATRAC, locker, or LSD in it. Completely open. I'll probably do something about that this year, but I'm in no rush at the moment, as I don't take it off road often. Other than that, the only things I had to deal with were minor. Tires weren't balanced, batteries were weak, timing belt never done, although it hadn't hit 100k yet, so that's not unreasonable. I didn't get any receipts for maintenance, so I'm essentially assuming nothing has ever been done.

For fuel economy, my tanks have been 11.5, 15.0, 11.4, 13.1, 12.7, 11.5, 11.2 L/100km. The 15.0 included a full day of off-roading, and the 13.1 was probably all city driving. I've never done a full tank of highway, most of that is city driving. I think it would be under 10 L/100km cruising a 110km/h. That's completely stock, except for tires that are a touch over sized.

I meant to make a thread when I got the truck, but got lazy. Maybe I should still do that!

 

[turtlepower]

Cool! I also have a diesel 100 series and have been thinking of a few of those same modifications, like the 3" exhaust, Unichip, and intercooler.

 

[OEMGUY0720]

Don’t forget to get your EGR serviced and decarbonize it. It will improve both your fuel consumption and throttle response.

 

[DubsonHDJ100]

Wow, just now read all of this - Great to know! I'm happy to hear that the valve body upgrade and tune upgrades are worthwhile and will certainly let you know when the time comes if I can relieve you of those parts. I'm especially curious what your source was for the unichip and intercooler out of Australia? Also, any notable changes to fuel economy (for better or worse) after the mods?

The intercooler is HP diesel, the unichip I have not done yet, but talking the the guys at GTurbo, they suggested doing a boost controller first. The stock ecu can adjust A/F up to 15psi, after that a turbo and tune is required(along with all the other supporting mods). I noticed after I turned up the boost my egts went down(im assuming it’s because the intercooler is performing more efficiently(went from 1300f to 900f max on long up hill pulls)). From my understanding, there is a couple different versions of the unichip out right now, GTurbo was offering a plug in piggyback style tuner, where as the one I was looking at is the euro version with on the fly selectable maps. I haven’t decided on the tuner yet because with my mods the truck doesn’t feel like tank and bogged down anymore.

 

[turtlepower]

The intercooler is HP diesel, the unichip I have not done yet, but talking the the guys at GTurbo, they suggested doing a boost controller first. The stock ecu can adjust A/F up to 15psi, after that a turbo and tune is required(along with all the other supporting mods). I noticed after I turned up the boost my egts went down(im assuming it’s because the intercooler is performing more efficiently(went from 1300f to 900f max on long up hill pulls)). From my understanding, there is a couple different versions of the unichip out right now, GTurbo was offering a plug in piggyback style tuner, where as the one I was looking at is the euro version with on the fly selectable maps. I haven’t decided on the tuner yet because with my mods the truck doesn’t feel like tank and bogged down anymore.

Does the piping on the HP Diesel intercooler interfere with the viscous heater at all (if you have one)? I started looking at intercooler kits recently and it seems like a lot of them will be running pipes near to where the viscous heater is located.

 

[DubsonHDJ100]

Does the piping on the HP Diesel intercooler interfere with the viscous heater at all (if you have one)? I started looking at intercooler kits recently and it seems like a lot of them will be running pipes near to where the viscous heater is located.

No interference, it’s model IK-100-F, it bolts into the same place the stock intercooler goes. I use my power heater all the time in late fall/winter/early spring.

HP Diesel IK-100-F Intercooler

 

[1mtomselleck]

The intercooler is HP diesel, the unichip I have not done yet, but talking the the guys at GTurbo, they suggested doing a boost controller first. The stock ecu can adjust A/F up to 15psi, after that a turbo and tune is required(along with all the other supporting mods). I noticed after I turned up the boost my egts went down(im assuming it’s because the intercooler is performing more efficiently(went from 1300f to 900f max on long up hill pulls)).

Thanks for this info and the pic - Sounds like a bigger intercooler is in order. Just wish they didn't have to come all the way from Australia! I'm not super familiar with turbo tuning, but are you saying that you can use a boost controller to increase the max boost to 15psi on the stock ECU and the motor will be able to maintain a "normal" AFR?

 

[1mtomselleck]

I've had a few Toyota diesels before, and driven others. This is the first one I've imported though. I find the 100 series to be quite boring, but it makes anything else feel like a toy in comparison. I've gotten over the idea that mechanical diesels are better, and the 1HD-FTE is absolutely the best engine I've owned.

I had Mike from Forthright Trading help me find and bring it over. I had contacted one of the Alberta based importers as well, but Mike understood much better what I was hoping to find. He's not always open to more clients though.

I think the only "bad" surprise was that my truck seems to be a super rare model with no ATRAC, locker, or LSD in it. Completely open. I'll probably do something about that this year, but I'm in no rush at the moment, as I don't take it off road often. Other than that, the only things I had to deal with were minor. Tires weren't balanced, batteries were weak, timing belt never done, although it hadn't hit 100k yet, so that's not unreasonable. I didn't get any receipts for maintenance, so I'm essentially assuming nothing has ever been done.

For fuel economy, my tanks have been 11.5, 15.0, 11.4, 13.1, 12.7, 11.5, 11.2 L/100km. The 15.0 included a full day of off-roading, and the 13.1 was probably all city driving. I've never done a full tank of highway, most of that is city driving. I think it would be under 10 L/100km cruising a 110km/h. That's completely stock, except for tires that are a touch over sized.

I meant to make a thread when I got the truck, but got lazy. Maybe I should still do that!

100k is about as mint as you can get.. that's awesome. Interesting about the basic differential setup, I didn't know they made a version like this. There are a lot of people that never take these offroad so a street-focused version makes sense.. Not sure how many 4x4 enthusiasts there really are in Japan

Nice job on the fuel records, those figures don't seem too bad I will just hope mine does around the same. Certainly looking forward to that planted, tank-like feeling though. I used to think of the 4runner as a mid-sized vehicle but everything else on the road has gotten huge over the last 10 years. Now it's basically a "crossover" with above average ground clearance.

 

[DubsonHDJ100]

Thanks for this info and the pic - Sounds like a bigger intercooler is in order. Just wish they didn't have to come all the way from Australia! I'm not super familiar with turbo tuning, but are you saying that you can use a boost controller to increase the max boost to 15psi on the stock ECU and the motor will be able to maintain a "normal" AFR?

That’s exactly it. 16psi is boost cut so 14-15 should be your target. From the way GTurbo explained it to me is “The Factory ECU boost cuts at 16psi so the unichipX allows you to go past that and tune the car to suit you set up”.

As far as shipping and importing from AUS to CAN, it’s not too complicated, the exchange is decent and the import costs are pretty standard, I’ve found companies in aus are very helpful. There are a couple of companies I’ve dealt with that said they won’t ship and other did without hassle.

Lastly I’d add that I went with the PPD 3” Cat back with muffler and while the quality and fit was decent, I do find it a bit loud(I don’t mind…yet).

 

[turtlepower]

Lastly I’d add that I went with the PPD 3” Cat back with muffler and while the quality and fit was decent, I do find it a bit loud(I don’t mind…yet).

That's too bad, the pricing on that one looked pretty good. Do you find it too loud in the city, highway, or both? I want to find something that won't get too annoying on a long highway cruise.

 

[DubsonHDJ100]

That's too bad, the pricing on that one looked pretty good. Do you find it too loud in the city, highway, or both? I want to find something that won't get too annoying on a long highway cruise.

It’s mostly city driving that I find it too loud. Although I think the 100 series lacks a bit on sound deadening and at highway speeds there’s also a lot of wind and road noise that comes through, I’m also on fairly aggressive all terrain tire.

For what it’s worth, might be just as cheap to go PPD route and add another resonator or two, I’m sure the lack of a catalyst also contributes to the loudness.

 

[slay]

I am looking into getting a 2003+ model of the HDJ101 from Japan. I believe the SK inspections are quite similar to in BC or MB. Would like to know what parts had to be replaced in order to pass the inspection in your respective province? Thank you.

 

[DubsonHDJ100]

@slay

It really depends on the inspector, I know there’s shops here in bc that will pass them without changing things like headlights and adding DRLs.

 

[1mtomselleck]

I am looking into getting a 2003+ model of the HDJ101 from Japan. I believe the SK inspections are quite similar to in BC or MB. Would like to know what parts had to be replaced in order to pass the inspection in your respective province? Thank you.

Very cool! I would recommend doing the import if you find the right vehicle. The one I got was an auction grade 3.5, so while there are a few little wear things (carpet stains and vinyl scuffs), overall the vehicle was pretty immaculate for being 20 years old. Clearly garage kept and mechanically perfect, except for some front end stuff.. Here's what my prov inspection turned up:

- Headlight housings are aimed to the left (needed new OEM north america housings w/ SAE markings, ~$300/ea)
- Marker lights were not amber and had no SAE markings (needed OEM markers, ~$100)
- Need to wire up DRLs (DIY)
- Loose inner tie rod (just got the full set of inner/outer from CruiserTeq, ~$400)
- Loose wheel bearing (got both fronts from CruiserTeq, ~$300)
- Worn steering rack bushings (another CruiserTeq purchase, ~$150)
- Has hub spacers. Those are not allowed lol

So all-in, probably around $2k CAD for all fixes with the mechanicals being handled by a friend at $60/hr. As Dubson said however, you might have better luck with a different independent shop. The one I went to was extremely thorough (certainly with respect to the lights all needing SAE / DOT markings). They will fail you on tie rod play every day of the week though.

Still, no regrets.

 

[DubsonHDJ100]

Very cool! I would recommend doing the import if you find the right vehicle. The one I got was an auction grade 3.5, so while there are a few little wear things (carpet stains and vinyl scuffs), overall the vehicle was pretty immaculate for being 20 years old. Clearly garage kept and mechanically perfect, except for some front end stuff.. Here's what my prov inspection turned up:

- Headlight housings are aimed to the left (needed new OEM north america housings w/ SAE markings, ~$300/ea)
- Marker lights were not amber and had no SAE markings (needed OEM markers, ~$100)
- Need to wire up DRLs (DIY)
- Loose inner tie rod (just got the full set of inner/outer from CruiserTeq, ~$400)
- Loose wheel bearing (got both fronts from CruiserTeq, ~$300)
- Worn steering rack bushings (another CruiserTeq purchase, ~$150)
- Has hub spacers. Those are not allowed lol

So all-in, probably around $2k CAD for all fixes with the mechanicals being handled by a friend at $60/hr. As Dubson said however, you might have better luck with a different independent shop. The one I went to was extremely thorough (certainly with respect to the lights all needing SAE / DOT markings). They will fail you on tie rod play every day of the week though.

Still, no regrets.

That’s still not bad all things considered. I was surprised my LC passed with JDM headlights and no drl. I swapped mine out with one piece with retrofit projectors eventually.

 

[1mtomselleck]

That’s still not bad all things considered. I was surprised my LC passed with JDM headlights and no drl. I swapped mine out with one piece with retrofit projectors eventually.

Thats super surprising about the DRLs, that has always been the #1 guaranteed thing on the cars I've brought in from the USA.

But yeah, pretty standard fare for a 20+ year old vehicle. Just finished spending almost double that total repair bill on a new set of wheels with fresh rubber. We do it because we love them

 

[turtlepower]

A lot seems to depend on the inspector and their interpretation of the rules. My inspector mentioned that I didn't have DRLs, but said that it didn't matter since the vehicle was over 15 years old which exempted it from that requirement. The only thing that failed on mine was that the front corner lights didn't have DOT or SAE markings on them. My vehicle is left hand drive, so the headlight beam pattern was already appropriate for North American roads.