I have the dual swing version and haven’t ever figured out a solution. I ended up buying the ARB Base locking mount for my roof rack instead
RLC rear tire carrier / swing out / jerry can / custom fab bumper (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Willy beamin
- Start date
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I don’t have a good photo but in the first photo you can see the rubber above the hitch I had welded. I put two rivnuts to support the base of the hi lift then I use a strap to secure the top or my tire.
That looks great. Would love to see a couple close up pics with the hilift mounted I’d you have them. Just mainly looking for a visual of the how the top and bottom attach. Also, where did you get that rubber pad at the bottom from?
The rubber is a old MTB tire that I cut. I’ll try to get a photo for you.
Would anyone be able to measure the distance between the bottom of their tire and the hitch? I’m wondering whether a Wilco like the one attached will clear it.
Are you looking for a single or dual
Swingout?
I don’t have a preference. I just want to be able to have a high clearance bumper, swing out spare tire, and also run that Wilco swing out and bike/cargo carrier like in my pic.
I think the dissent driver side single swing out will work, but RLC is closer and much much less expensive.
Pretty sure it will hit that. I had a receiver welded onto my tire swing out so I can put my bike rack on that swing out.
My 275/70/18 on stock wheels sticks out about 14.5” and is about 4.5” above the top of my hitch. This is a single swingout.
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Single swing. I got 12.5" with 275/80/18 and 4.5" above. But I did measure a couple days ago and now I feel like I should go double check those numbers.
I run a home made swing-out mounted rack, which bolts into a homemade hitch insert and the tire studs. It's quite stable but not amazing ground clearance for off-road (bounced a bike off last trip on a bigger size drop after going too fast and getting automatically put back into 'N' from 'H'). Had to replace the grips on the bike, and tore a tire strap off the rack.
<edit updated to actual values>
I run a home made swing-out mounted rack, which bolts into a homemade hitch insert and the tire studs. It's quite stable but not amazing ground clearance for off-road (bounced a bike off last trip on a bigger size drop after going too fast and getting automatically put back into 'N' from 'H'). Had to replace the grips on the bike, and tore a tire strap off the rack.
<edit updated to actual values>
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This for sure wont work with the
RLc. It needs to be flush with the original receiver height.
teejnut
SILVER Star
Just noticed this is sold out on RLC's website. Anyone hear anything? I've sent James an email but haven't heard back yet.
They build to order and he may just be out for holidays!
Thats smart, i ended up getting the swing out for my Kuat, it was very hard to find one but I have a 4 bike one and dont know how much weight the swing out could take.
I treat my rlc swingout as if it had a 150 lb weight capacity.
Spare tire is around 100lb, so 50lb additional.
My homemade bike rack cal is around 50lb and that plus the tire starts to get some flex at the spindle corner when open.
When I add bikes to it, I bolt the bike rack vertical to the factory hitch tube, no weight worries then
Spare tire is around 100lb, so 50lb additional.
My homemade bike rack cal is around 50lb and that plus the tire starts to get some flex at the spindle corner when open.
When I add bikes to it, I bolt the bike rack vertical to the factory hitch tube, no weight worries then
teejnut
SILVER Star
That looks to be the case. Talked to James via email and order placed. About 6 weeks out he said.
Awesome…. So a heads up on something to save you some aggravation.
The LX has a difference in the tailgate from the LC. The LC tailgate is pretty much only the aheet metal for the tailgate where as the LX has lights next to license plate etc.
Originally I wanted my bumper as high up as possible and it looked awesome but then after I was done I opened the back and the tailgate hut the bumper when I opened it instead of stopping with the steel cables.
Well long story short I had to move the whole thing down a bit buy had already cut the bumper and well the gap is a bit bugger than I wanted.
In essence make sure you check the tailgate open as you install to ensure you have clearance. The rest is pretty straight forward.
Cheers
I shortened the cables that support the tailgate to address the LX570 clearance. If I recall took a 1/2" off, your install will be slightly different, but probably in that range of material. New cables and the hammer closed crimp fittings were in the neighborhood of $5 at the local rigging supply. Just reuse the existing cable end covers and fixing hardware to the tailgate.
My tailgate unweighted sits slightly uptipped, but as soon as you sit on it goes to level. Even though it's wire rope, the end loops don't pull tight around the fasteners until they are weighted, so be aware stretched length is slightly longer . . .
My tailgate unweighted sits slightly uptipped, but as soon as you sit on it goes to level. Even though it's wire rope, the end loops don't pull tight around the fasteners until they are weighted, so be aware stretched length is slightly longer . . .
Sounds like a good idea. I thought of that but seemed a bit tedious and my biggest issue is I have drawers so I did not want them to catch when unweighted.
I would have just remove the lights since they are not seen anymore with the tire carrier, but the LX tailgate has an opening in the sheet metal for the lights.
Is your bumper parallel to the ground from front to back with a level vehicle?
I had to put spacers in the bolts in the front of it to lower it, and it still slightly sags in back.
Cheers
The flat on the bumper below the tailgate is horizontal. The wings have a bit of downslope from the wheel well to hitch (reverse slope).
It is easy to replace the wire supports for the tailgate. If I recall it is two bolts per side.
I do have a drawer and it pulls all the way out, but it's certainly close!
