Need some help with my lift. Three link (1 Viewer)

[Broke4runner]

Hi I need help to say the least. I would like to know if it would be a good idea to install flat pitman raising the drag link even more to parallel the track bar is a good idea?

Can a upper control arm be connected to the lower control arm? see pic.

Massive death wobble afte I hit a bump.

Are my shocks too high?

 

[2ndGenToyotaFan]

The steering draglink and the panhard (track) bar need to be the same length and the same angle. It looks to me like your panhard is way too short.

The Y link is fine, just one of a lot of ways to do it.

I would also check your castor angle and toe-in.

The shocks are long, but not excessive if the geometry is correct.

 

[BlueCruiser84]

Check your caster. Make sure all your link connections are tight.

Drag link and track bar should be parallel and same length.

Obviously check for cracks around mount brackets. That is going to be a lot of stress on that rear mount.

CHeck Wheel bearings and trunnion bearings for proper preload.

 

[ntsqd]

The easy thing is when the drag link and the trac-bar can be the same length and parallel. That doesn't happen all that often.

When it can't happen you have to work a bit harder. Easiest is to lay it out full scale with chalk on smooth concrete. Draw a sraight line to repsresent the ground. Plot the locations of each pivot point (drag link & trac-bar). Then using some string with a helper holding it tight at the frame pivot scribe an arc'd line for the travel path of the axle end of the drag link and the axle end of the trac-bar. Make two more lines parallel to the ground, one about 1 inch below ride height, the other about 3 inches above ride height.

Between these two lines is where you're most interested. While measuring parallel to the ground check the distance between the arcs at ride height and at each of the horizontal lines. The difference in those dimensions is your bump-steer.
Play around with where the various pivots have to move to get the bump-steer as small as possible. Way easier to first do it in chalk and then move it to metal than keep cutting/bending/welding metal.

 

[jtaco1]

View attachment 1810566

From this picture that you posted in your other post, you have a couple of things going on:

Your panhard is to short and the axle side mount needs moved out and up and the frame side could be moved down and out. As noted before, they need to be on the same plane and ideally flat at ride height.

It also looks like you have no caster. Put a degree finder on the top of the knuckle and report back.

Your passenger side link with the upper welded to it is super sketchy. There is a ton of stress at that location. It is not plated and I haven't seen one done like that before. Typically there is a joint there so as not to bind.

It also looks way tall. By lowerering it, that would help the panhard and drag link angles as well.

 

[ntsqd]

Ideally they should not be flat. They should have a gentle slope down to the axle. This gives more up travel with very small lateral dislocation.

 

[Broke4runner]

Im Gonna take a few more pictures with some better light tomorrow. Thank you for helping me. I am new to the forum and didn't really know where to start.
Ben