I want to hear from some of the guys with 350s (please) (1 Viewer)

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Eicca

Professional Noob
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I'm in the process of taking a prerequisite automotive fundamentals class right now in prep for an advanced automotive class that starts in August and runs to next May.

Cut to the chase: I want a 350 in there. Maybe even carburated (if that helps reduce complications). I'm used to 10mpg, I could live with it. I would keep the A440F and use an adapter.

Who here has a 350 in there truck? Was it worth it? Can it race a 2UZ :hillbilly:?

Of course I want it to be as cheap/easy as possible but still reliable, so if anyone has any suggestions for other engines I'm all ears.

Thanks!
 
I had a 350 in my 91 80, got the mark's adapter and bolted it up to the existing transmission. It defiantly had more power, but IMO try to find a wrecked tundra and pull the injected V8 out of it. You can most likely find one of those for less than a good 350, carb, accessories, and adapter (about 1,000 if you can find one). That would be my recommendation and i think you would be happier in the long haul, and you can search the forum to see how to do the install.
 
The GM 6.0 Liter would be a very nice engine for these. Lots of low end torque and very smooth. It's not going to be easy no matter what engine you run. Get the one you want and make it work.
 
I had a 5.3 in a Tahoe, and it seemed to need to rev and downshift to get any power. I prefer the old school small blocks for low end grunt. My old '94 Chevy 1500 4x4 with TBI felt stronger with a ton of miles on it compared to the Tahoe. That's one reason I went with a GM 350 crate motor in my 40.
 
I have a 350 TBI ('95 1/2 ton pickup) in my '91 80. It's been there now for 9 years. I did the install myself using a Mark's Adapter mated to the stock A440F. I've got about 40k miles on the swap with no MAJOR issues...(was better than the 3FE from day one)

I did struggle with cooling system pressure issues for a few years - ended up being a defective aftermarket radiator, that issue is now gone.

I've struggled with tranny temp issues as well and mixing that with the defective radiator made for frustrating trouble shooting.

Here's the GREAT news...just within the last few months, I've made 2 mods that bring a huge smile to my face whenever I drive my cruiser now...I installed a new valve body and torque converter from Wholesale Automatics in Australia. The new valve body has a shift kit and 3rd gear lock-up. The torque converter is more efficient than the stock one. (That means more engine power reaches the rear wheels instead of being turned too heat in the torque converter.)

These 2 pieces have made a HUGE difference in the driveability of my rig. I would recommend them for anyone with the A440F no matter which engine their using. I think the new pieces would have a dramatic affect on a 3FE.

With the upgraded torque converter, drive-ability around town is so much improved, I would equate it to a 25HP gain (just a seat of the pants estimate). It really is a night and day difference, it takes so much less throttle to get my beast moving (35's, 4:10's and very heavy). It feels fast for the first time. Shifts are quick and firm and feel great. On the highway, the 3rd gear lock-up makes climbing so much nicer and quicker. When I hit a highway incline, I drop the tranny to 3rd and can now accelerate up most hills. Without the 3rd gear lock-up, a drop to 3rd did result in some more power but it also created TONS of heat in the torque converter (lost power). In the past, I could watch my coolant temp gauge climb if I remained in 3rd too long. NO MORE!

Anyway, what I'm trying to say, if you go through the trouble of a swap, take care of the A440F's issues NOW and you will be much happier. (Or run a different tranny.)

I love my truck now. With the 35' and 4:10's the setup is so low revving, which is a perfect match for the low-end torque of the 350 TBI's. I honestly don't have new MPG numbers yet with the new tranny bits, but Wholesale claims significant gains (10-12%); I believe it. Hope that helps.

EDIT: Unfortunately, the tranny pieces from Wholesale Automatics are NOT cheap, but sticking with the stock tranny really simplifies the swap process.
 
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while not an FJ80, I have a 5.7 vortec in my FJ60. Best thing I ever did to make the truck fun to drive and it has plenty of power. Was not easy..had some issue with getting the fuel injection setup and some other aggrivating things along the way. Getting the engine cooling setup is one major concern.
 
The GM 6.0 Liter would be a very nice engine for these. Lots of low end torque and very smooth. It's not going to be easy no matter what engine you run. Get the one you want and make it work.

Totally agree...........:cheers:
 
Thanks for the input! I originally wanted the 2UZ with the A750F tranny but they're pretty expensive (rebuilt 350s sell in the local classifieds for like $800) and I'm not entire sure I want to deal with the wiring and adapting the center console stuff and the tranny mounts. The carbed 350s (or maybe an even bigger engine) just kind of drop in.

If I can get my hands on a 2UZ engine and tranny for not too much then I'll totally do it. There's just the issue of transfer case.

Keep the input rollin :)
 
I don't think you can touch a toyota v-8 for anything close to what you can buy a GM V-8, then you run into all the issues about what trans will work, what transfer case will work, what will you have to do with engine harness. All of this has been worked out with the GM V-8 swaps, for the most part.

A 6.0 is very nice engine. Puts out more power than my 5.7. and the vortec 5.7 will push the truck as fast as you are crazy to push it. Will certainly exceed the vehicles handeling characteristics.

TBI 5.7 is a relative dog in power.

5.7 Vortec is reasonably powerful, and the 5.3 and 6.0 engines are nice (all truck engines). I would buy a 6.0 with all the parts... would even think about using the GM transmission if there is an adpater to mate GM trans with the tc used on the FJ80... Get all the wiring associated with the engine harness and transmission.
 
Ok Im gonna chime in with a crazy idea. Back in the day I did 2 different 350 swaps into mini trucks, and 1 in a 4runner. Ok so before you say Im crazy hear me out. Why not use a turbo 350 or 700r4 to a mini truck transfer case and drop that in. The older mini truck cases are gear driven, like ours. They can take a ton of abuse, I had a built motor 38 inch swampers and never had problems with it, just always blowing rears. I know the out put on the rear is centered, but I dont think it would vibrate way too much. The adapters are alot cheaper too. Just a crazy idea.
 
Idea: Which engine did Chevy put in the '69 Camaros? THOSE are beastly!
 
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You are going to have a far better engine, easy to start, usable power...etc if you stay with something like a 6.0. If you are trying to build a hot-rod out of your 80, then that's a whole different question. I personally would say it would be a waste of time and effort.

Fuel injection, a 6.0, 5.3 or 5.7 vortec would be great. If you want to save money get a old school carbed 350 engine. If you want to have a turn-key start every time...stay with fuel injection.

I think you might want to compare HP and torque from present day 6.0 engine... to old schoo lstuff... its amazing what a 6.0 makes in power. High performance car engines make power in the upper RPM ranges...you want the opposite in a truck...you want the power in teh low rpm range.
 
Multiport fuel injection still works fine when your 80 is vertical. Carbs... not so much.
 
Multiport fuel injection still works fine when your 80 is vertical. Carbs... not so much.

I can see that happening...

Hmmm. What to do, what to do?
 
For your year, there was no Carb offered on any domestic or import truck. So you may need to check to see what will work if you have emissions or safty checks. While in Rural areas, you may be able to get away with a carb engine swap. IN most city area with emissions you will not. Then trying to sell the thing in the future will be a pain as well.
Usually with most swaps, you need to install a engine of the same model year as the vehicle or newer.
 
For your year, there was no Carb offered on any domestic or import truck. So you may need to check to see what will work if you have emissions or safty checks. While in Rural areas, you may be able to get away with a carb engine swap. IN most city area with emissions you will not. Then trying to sell the thing in the future will be a pain as well.
Usually with most swaps, you need to install a engine of the same model year as the vehicle or newer.

Lane pointed that out to me. So:

I think I'll go whole hog and attempt the 2UZ swap. I'll just need to figure out transmission mounts, seeing as my best option for getting a 2UZ is from a wrecked Tundra, Sequoia, or 100-series.
 
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Here is my 92fj80 with a tbi set up donated from a 91 Chevy Silverado. The engine is a new crate motor, all stock. It is mated to the factory Toyota tranny and transfer case.
 
As far as carbs not working in near vertical, holley makes a offroad carb, works pretty damn good.

But, smart ecu’s and fuel injection kits that bolt in like carbs is vastly superior. They're under a grand too.

Personally, id go ls, gm trans and marks adapter for the t case, but gear the front and rear at LEAST to 4.56, but 4.88 is better, then even a 4.8 will change your mind, 4.8 =325 hp and 300fpt with no mods but a basic tune. 5.3 csn best that a bit snd a 6.0 will feel like a racecar. Just stay away from displacement on demand motors, they are s*** and need work to not burn oil.
 
I dont want to hurt feelings here but i can't imagine doing all that work to end up with a tbi or carburated 350. I mean compared to a 3FE they're an improvement in power but compared to a 1fz, why bother? They're not bad engines but pretty anemic all things considered. If you're gonna do it just do a proper fuel injected gm v8, especially with ls conversions being so well ironed out.
Then again what do I know? I went with a cummins afterall.
 
I'm guessing the decisions have already been made, about 8 years ago.
 

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