Recent content by Rigster

I second @Exiled and @jblueridge When it comes to a critical safety component (and there are precious few on the 70's!) I tend to stick to OEM and complete remediation. IE: if the little splines on the studs have stripped in the rotor, I would replace the rotor as well, and all new studs...

Hey thanks for the input. If I am honest, I had my doubts on these new chargers, 1/4 size and $30 left me doubtful but hopeful. So far over the winter I have used it on 3 semi batteries and ran the repair on a few others but that is it. Interesting observation on the heat. We can get over...

Interesting! My old charger finally packed it in (I repaired it a couple of times) and I replaced it with one of these fancy pants ones with the "battery recondition" options but have only used that once on a couple of batteries, so I have no experience over time with how it works on batteries...

It's the harsh winters you have where you live. They are hard on batteries. I still have the original japanese lead-acid flooded batteries that my cruiser came with. They are over 3 years old now and still going strong.... knock on wood.

Ditto... way to go @theglobb ! Even just having that on a resume is cool. A good conversation starter if nothing else with any future prospective jobs down the road once you are done school. Can't wait to see all the mods you do on the steam engine... lift, Turbo, injectors, maybe an Isuzu...

I just drill them out and retap the threads. If you are careful, patient and somewhat lucky you can reuse the captive nut, otherwise you have to get creative on securement options once you remediate the filler hose and connections. I would recommend if you drop the tank, take the time to...

Awwwe man, I hate surprises like this. And all the nuts broke off too! :confused:

The only thing I don't understand, is why you don't live closer to me... 😜

I will go with the obvious recommendation since you basically answered your question yourself.... "but 1.25"/32mm would be very useful...so that's my leading contender" I tend to use products that check the most boxes. My top checkboxes are quality, durability, usefulness - how many different...

Since this "started" after 9000km of beautiful driving, I would check your bearing preload as these can require adjustment. It has been mentioned by others as well. Also, the radius arms you have in your picture... are they castor correcting? (IE: keep the front axle at the right tilt or...

Start simple and work your way up from the tank. Test every line... I use vacuum to test for leaks, but pressure will work too. Although time consuming and annoying, in most cases, it is simply worn rubber lines, a pinhole in a hard metal line, or need new clamps or a combination of all 3. If...

75w90 for the transfer case and diffs. Double check the owners manual for minimum level rating (GL). You can go to a higher level of gear oil (synthetic) if you wish. We cannot speak to the transmission without knowing what transmission you have (auto or manual?). If it is manual, same as above.

This is a tough one with all the chinesium ones out there for anyone crazy enough to bolt one of those on. Seems like you can get one of those for $150 If it is the original toyota CT-26 then I would think you should be able to get $250 - $300 for a refurbished original. Just an opinion of...

Haven't been doing much on the Land Cruiser as I have had a bunch of maintenance projects to get looked after, some planned, most NOT. Used the Land Cruiser and trailer to pickup a new hot water tank for the house. My dear son, some of you might recall when he hit my land cruiser with his...

Just start a go fund me page.... then DO IT!! 🤪