Cool the CV joint in liquid nitrogen, dry ice or even the freezer. Then heat the ring with a torch to about 500F or more. Then it will probably just drop on with no resistance.
If you had a shop press, you could also use a piece of pipe to press it on square to the CV.
Yes, hookers are real pros when it comes to fluid exchange.
Another point about brakes is that the dead volume in the brake system increases as the brake pads and shoes wear out. This makes it easier for bubbles to hide in the system and harder to sweep them out. All of the shop work...
I did hundreds of brake jobs back when I was turning wrenches for a living and they were still making FJ40s. We never had a problem bleeding brakes except when the master cylinder was bad and then we replaced it and never bench bled it and never had problems bleeding. The shop I worked used the...
Yes, it will bolt up, but it is about 3/4 inch longer than the PS steering shaft, so the wheel will be a little closer to you. You can shorten the manual shaft if you want it to be the stock length.
If the fuel level rises, then the inlet needle valve may be leaking.
It is possible that the engine is flooded when you try to restart the engine. Carbs are notorious for having problems with "reformulated" gasoline causing them to leak fuel into the intake manifold and flooding the engine.
To...
If you are doing the test properly with constant power to the +side and switching on and off the connection to the - side of the coil and you can’t get a spark to jump a 6mm gap to ground, then the coils may be bad. I think the chances of them being bad are extremely unlikely.
You seem to keep on doing the same thing over and over and expecting a different result. You need to check components one step a time.
1. Remove all wires at the coil except the center spark wire. Place this about 6mm from the engine block.
2. Run a new wire from battery + to coil +
3...
What switch? You can’t tell what it does because it is not a schematic diagram. If it is wired Ike it was in the car except for the igniter, then you should get a spark. You need an ignition condenser, not the one that was attached to the ignitior.
As you found, this doesn’t work. What does work is connecting the coil + to the battery+ and then momentarily touching a wire from the battery - to the coil minus. If you keep this wire connected, nothing happens. Every time you touch the ground wire to the coil - and remove it you get a...
A ‘77 is supposed to have a “semi transistorized” igniter. It can run on just the points alone if you have the distributor wired directly to the - side of the coil as Mark mentioned.
First test the coil for a spark: Connect the coil + to the battery +. Them momentarily ground the - side of...
I didn’t take a picture, but to paint an image of what is going on with the front facing brass vacuum tube in the top cover, it is drilled straight through so if you put a piece of wire in the tube, it will go straight in and come out inside the secondary air horn or bore. It also takes a 90...
A carb leaking gas out of the throttle plate shaft bushings is often a sign of an engine with an intake manifold leak. Because of the air leak, the engine can’t get enough fuel to idle, so to compensate, the idle speed is increased so that the engine can barely run off of the main nozzle. This...