Recent content by Pin_Head

Getting the right size master cylinder is a little tricky because it not only has to move the proper amount of fluid, but also produce the proper pressure. The larger diameter piston moves more fluid, but also takes more pedal pressure. Make sure your 80 brakes are properly bled and do not...

In addition to cooling the fuel at the inlet as many people have mentioned, the return has a restriction that may also serve to clip the pressure spike from the pulsatile flow of the pump. I’m not sure what this might help. Neither function seems compelling, which is probably why they run so...

That carb was rebuilt in 2010, so it is past its warranty period.

Remove the top cover screws and gently loosen the cover by tapping on it and lifting the fuel line. Once it is free, lift it up to that you can see the end of the needle valve where it meets the float. Free the needle up with some needle nose pliers or a small screwdriver so it can move up and...

The BY ignition wire to the coil /distributor is the only wire in the 40 that is not fused which I probably why it burned up. The ignition is not part of the engine fuse circuit.

That would do it but it won’t explain why capping this hose off did not make it idle better. Maybe the other end of the hose connects to the air cleaner or somewhere else above the throttle plate.

For the carb issue, it is most likely either a lack of idle fuel at the idle fuel port under the throttle plate or a air leak below the throttle plate allowing air with no fuel into the intake manifold. It is not always easy to distinguish these two possibilities, but you can try. First check...

Try power washing it first. Cheap spray paint on a poorly prepared surface might come right off.

The 1-2 shift gate is out of position and is either stuck in first gear or it is part way engaged but enough to lock out the other gates. You need to pry it up so the 1-2 slot lines up with the other two shift gates, reverse and 3-4. Once you get all three centered, manually move each shift...

Chances are that it is not the carb. Start a new thread and describe the symptoms and problems in detail.

1. Open the hood and take a peek to find what is leaking. 2. Or take it to a shop who will do 1 above.

The secondary resistance will not have a significant effect on the igniter. The primary resistance is much more important. If your check out coils, the secondary resistance varies enormously on different units, but the primary is always 1 or 2 ohms.

Chances are that something in the linkage or the butterflies themselves is preventing them from closing fully because it is not going to run at 2,000 RPM with them closed. Check inside with a flashlight to see which butterfly is open and then find out why it is not closing. Did you remove the...

Just to be clear, weak spark problems are the worst at full throttle, pedal to the metal, low RPM going up a hill in 4th gear conditions. This is the highest load on the engine. Vacuum leaks show up as a stumble when you transition from idling at a stop light to accelerate normally. This is...

Chances are your problem is not a bad fuel filter. The problem sounds intermittent and they can be hard to diagnose. Coils are very reliable, but they are also cheap, so you might try replacing it to see if the problem goes away. Igniter problems are more common than coil problems. Weak...