Recent content by Pierps

I wouldn't try to strip the paint with your parts still installed (i'm assuming this is why you mention collateral damage). The biggest components that need to be stripped are your blower, valve cover, and air cleaner. Those really aren't difficult to remove for stripping and repainting. Your...

Update, two years later... I didn't want to let this thread end on such a depressing note. However, it did get worse before it got better... I indeed scuff sand the exterior side of all panels. I indeed repainted it. I got the paint to lay down really nicely, and I laid down three coats to...

Yeah, bondo over serious rust demonstrates very poor judgement from a prior owner. That amount of rot is bad enough that there's no way there isn't other serious rust under bondo elsewhere. I get that you're not looking for a show rig, but rot like this can render the rig literally useless for...

I don't think you need to use compound or a DA polisher unless you need to correct the paint. I.e., remove scratches, even out the sheen, remove minor nibs in the clear, or remove minor orange peel. Every time you do those corrections, you're removing paint (single stage) or clear coat, so...

Cool cruisers has some

the hardest part for me was the back corners of the hard top. the compound curve means that the headliner needs a pie cut and a sewn seam. The CCOT headliner doesnt have a seam like that. I believe the Cruiser Corps version does. Sadly, I bought the CCOT one and I regretted it. I tried to do...

ok i have to ask...... what happened to your front tooth?!?

Although I'm way upside down financially on my restoration (and I don't care that much, to be sure), a selfish part of me is excited to see the price of awesome classics come down. There are a few I'd love to own. I like the idea of car collectors getting into it purely for the joy of driving...

PS, what in the world? That PO gave zero f*cks!

I'm not aware of an aftermarket patch panel for this. A junkyard salvage situation will probably be your best bet. Good news is that the dash doesn't tend to rust out, so there are probably lots of them in junkyards. Just bring lots of spot weld cutters and a battery powered angle grinder with...

IMO, when I bought my rig, it had no obvious rust holes. Just some bubbling paint here and there. Meaning, it was in better shape than this rig. Then I stripped the bedliner on the floors and realized a good portion of the floors needed replacing. Then I wire wheeled some of the exterior...

Weird! I bought their seat foam and covers for my jump seats for my '76 (9/75) and they fit great. I used Icon reproduction seat frames, and my rig didn't come with jump seats. So I didn't have a comparison point. Maybe my foam was thicker than OEM?

I was worried that you'd get this close to justice, but ultimately not get it. I wonder if it would be better to just know nothing than to be in this situation. But here's some unsolicited advice from a total stranger: don't let this degenerate pull you down. Once you're sure that justice...

I see that front of your rocker is properly aligned to the cowl, and that the rocker is parallel to the top of your wheel arch. As such, the only solution I can think of is for you to lower the quarter panel. The curved part in your second to last pic is going to hit the rear cross member, so...

Hammering out your welds with a dolly as they cool is key. Compressed air to keep the panel cool. Skipping around and not laying down one big bead in one spot. This is the way.