Recent content by numby

So you're repopping the retainer? Once I bought a NOS one from George I realized it should be pretty easy to reproduce...or is my assessment wrong? The handbrake drums and t-case output shafts are available via Australian sources (Terrain Tamer I think) because they were used there well into...

Unfortunately there are multiple pin holes through the pan that almost don't show through to the inside. All the rust happened on the outside between the pan and skid plate. The skid is actually just lightly pitted but it is a good bit thicker than the stamped pan. You are right that a patch may...

I think so. The pan is much worse than the skid plate. The patch would need to sit just a half inch inboard of the spot welds and pretty much cover the entire rusty colored zone to be considered a good repair. I can't take credit for approaching this. I'd never seen a hole saw spot weld bit -...

When are you taking my money? EDIT: You've got it now :)

There was an eclipse? I was busy all afternoon drilling out spot welds on my original oil pan to see if I wanted to repair or send to the scrapyard. Yeesh.

It was a small block Chevy with iron heads about a month after having it re-rung. Two days at about 0º with coolant mixed for warm weather did it in. Cracked right across the lifter valley under the intake. Took me a while to figure out what was going on. Edit: I was thinking there was a freeze...

Sorry but probably this^^^^^. Your coolant mixture at 50/50 is not enough to prevent a cast iron block from cracking. 24-48 hours is all it takes. Freeze plugs do not always blow first. Ask me how I know :rolleyes:

I'd make certain the distributor is well seated and actually delivering oil everywhere it should. After three weeks without oil the engine would've seized but you never know. You could run the engine, remove the filler cap, and shine a flashlight into the rocker arm assembly. You should see...

As a kid we had a 55 Chevy (and a 50 Ford and a...) with 3 on the tree. When cruising along and you needed power you downshifted from third into second. Reaching up and "grabbin' 2nd" was actually a common phrase in those days.

The four main center holes aren't threaded afaik. At least I've never seen them threaded on any 40/55s I've owned. The hole layout does correspond to some sizes of pintle hitches that various Cruiser shops used to sell. I'd still want to back anything bolted to the rear crossmember with 1/2"...

Rear on a '78 w/ drums and OEM Bleeders. (At least I seem to remember buying from the dealership) The bolts are hardware store metric. Your front looks fine.

This. Save your OEM hump for resale time.

I waited for the TrailBlazer to come out as I was interested in the motor and wanted a wagon at the time. A family member bought one and it was a great vehicle for them. Ultimately I couldn't get past the zany oil pan. Looks like there are solutions now. A NA version would be interesting in 40.

Yes, if jammed back against the firewall most small blocks will overheat. There's just no prop wash through the engine bay. Like you said, the PO placed the engine there to avoid relocating the trans/transfer and getting new driveshafts. One of the solutions back in the day was to run a Ranger...

What resistor did you order? Part number?