Recent content by jOnathN

I did actually. Forgot to follow up here; thanks for the reminder. I took Nckwltn up on his offer, bought his used lines, and had the local shop install while I worked on another project. The shop charged ~$1200 (including tax, etc) to install, refill, and bleed the lines. Has run great ever...

Re normal maintenance: about every 100k-150k miles you will need to replace the globes. Same as replacing normal shocks on any vehicle - typically the same interval. The globes cost the same as new shocks also (more expensive parts, less expensive labor)… since you can swap them in ~5 min each...

Necro post, but looking for guidance. Background: 1) 2004LX 2) sunroof is frozen, motor clicks but no movement at all 3) Leaking a touch in heavy rain. I pulled the glass panel, cleaned up the seal edges, and cleaned the drains… which were already clear but no harm done. Still leaks, so I’m...

Well, I took a first pass at it this weekend. Followed the directions here to get to the switch. In brief, it’s very easy: the black trim under the gauges pulls up and out with fingers, there is one phillips-head screw to the bottom left of the console, and then the lower console pulls straight...

What a coincidence! My 2004 just started doing that yesterday as well. Very annoying and have not had a chance to look at it yet. For clarity: as soon as the key is turned to the accessory position (or run) the passenger mirror motor runs, and it stays on until the truck is completely shut off...

Hard to tell from your description, but could also be old motor (2) and transmission (1) mounts passing engine vibration through when you are on the gas.

That image is a little fuzzy for me (but thank you for posting regardless). If I am reading right, the short story is: 1) ILSAC GF-4 SAE 5w20 is acceptable for our UZ series motors 2) ILSAC GF-4 SAE 0w20 should *not* be used in our UZ motors, because “These low-viscosity oils cannot maintain...

Re the design: button and icon styles look fine, I would only make two changes for usability: 1) make the secondary buttons (recirc, etc) and icons the same size as the others. Key in a truck is “glance-ability”… big enough that you can recognize instantly and poke with a fat finger while...

Wow, that’s an intense setup! Seems a shame to hide the aluminum pole piece in the door mains. What part is that in the rear cargo area, an amp? I’ve never seen one that long and skinny before.

Well, that is strange then. I’m out of ideas (not unusual for me 😀) at the moment

IMO, no, unless it looks or feels bad. You only have 60k on since the last change. Meant to be every 90k IIRC and that’s conservative. Mine appeared nearly new at 120k FWIW. YMMV though so, like 97 AZ said, best to have a look if it’s a bother for you.

When you recharge the battery to 100% it starts and all is well for about a week? If that’s the case I’d guess: 1) a weak battery again, possibly because of: A) a failing alternator or voltage regulator that is not keeping it charged B) high parasitic load that is draining the battery...

If the exhaust manifold is leaking significantly it can throw off the O2 sensor also. Think it has to be a sizable leak though.

Ignoring the bad decisions part of this; curious why she spun. Usually a spin happens if the rear locks but the front doesn’t. Were you on a curve when you locked the brakes? Did ABS not fire at all? Did it fire just on the front axle but not the rear? Old tires that just hydroplaned? I brake...

There are a bunch of retrofit EPAS systems that the hotrod guys use to upgrade early non-power steering cars. IIRC they mostly go between the rack and steering column at the coupling and are not too difficult to install. You’d probably want to remove any internal valving and such inside the PS...