Yes, I am very happy with it. Compared to others, mine is very quiet and has no loose metal noises. Also, when you close the doors, the sound is very firm. I have a 1HZ engine, so I’m always looking for ways to reduce noise.
That’s what I did for underneath and inside floor, including the firewall and inside the doors: primer, two coats of Lizard Skin Thermal, two coats of Lizard Skin Sound Control, two coats of Raptor, and then the final paint color.
I sprayed Lizard Skin, then Kilmat, and finally the headliner, and I am very happy with the results. It’s been 6 months since I did the work in a very hot and humid climate, and it has been holding up with no issues.
Also, check the ohms of the sender you have—whether it is 0–90 or 90–0 ohms—and use the correct preset from the DD. It will be either GM90 or 63VET. I'm not sure which link you used for this Amazon sender.
Hope this can help you.
Which sender are you using? The one recommended by Proffit that they sent is the GM 33–240 ohms, so you have to use the GM 250 preset on the DD. Also, check your connectors, wiring, and ground—the ground wire is very important.
Hi @fraserb,
I know this is an old thread, but I was wondering if you found a solution. I have a similar problem with the driver’s side. The gap is not as big as yours but is still not in the right position, whereas the passenger side is perfect. Were you able to fix it with adjustments, or does...
I did some research and found this ring adapter for the tank that Proffitt’s Land Cruisers sells, as well as this fuel sender that can work with the GM preset of the DD.
https://parts.resurrectionlandcruisers.com/products/fuel-tank-sender-adapter-plate...
Since I changed the engine, radiator, and added Vintage Air A/C, we cut a bit of the lip to create some extra clearance to avoid any issues with the condenser.