igotta40's latest activity

Kicked it out of the garage and washed the dust and pollen off it...and first time the garage has been even close to cleaned out in a while.

Many years ago (like 20) someone posted the exact PN for a 15x8 wagon wheel with the magic offset to work on a 40 series. It was offered by 4 wheel parts, but I don’t remember who actually made the wheel. Not sure why, but I think @Mace and/or...

There is no “preaching to the choir” here as the guys who know….know. BUT, @Jdc did my disk brake conversion a few weeks ago and it has made such an amazing difference to the use of my truck with the driving experience here in New Jersey...

Didn't realize your considering early 40 with a column shift. Haven't figured a value but have a 1970 model I purchased from the.original owner fourteen years ago. Have only started a few times in the last year. Its been kept in an insulated...

Nice work. I’m the same way. I can’t put a dirty part back on a car, I have to restore it. I had the same issue with my 1974 tank. I also got rid of the fiber cushions and used conveyor belt fabric. I worked at an airport, so I had access to it...

This is how the tank looked after sanding, priming, and topcoat. First image is bottom of tank, second image is top of tank.

Removed the passenger seat, gas tank (and transmission tunnel cover) of the 68 FJ40 to gain working access room during the project’s engine swap. One of my personal weaknesses emerges when I remove and replace apart during a project rebuild...

If you email @cruiseroutfit , along with pictures and a pic of your info tag in the driverside door, they will send you exactly what you need for the gasket and seal.

Toyota OEM, there’s a photo of the part number in my post.

Got the top and the bezel painted.

Are you certain the alternator has failed? Before running out to buy parts, I would suggest that you take it to the auto parts store and have it tested. You have to bring it in anyway for the core charge on a new one.

Excellent write up!

The 1974 FJ40 Amp Meter shunt would be dificult to replace as it's part of the meter itself, not external like the 1979 and up amp meters. Great read: all things gauges Here is why you can run a high amp replacement alternator and not burn up...

This Permatex Ultra Copper. I can’t say it was leaking before I used this, the old gasket was okay without sealer, until it burned through. Kind of a belt & suspenders deal I guess, not wanting to have a do over.

Drove it for the last time, then ripped it apart.

I just drive to the hood for that

Thanks! That’s a good price.

Well, after only about 30 years I finally decided to rebuild those leaky knuckles. It wasn’t a difficult job but it was as messy as everybody said it would be. That YouTube video I watched only took 28 minutes but It took me about ten days to...

Got the top and doors off for the first time since owning this one. Next up are tie rods and to swap those seats for something else that sits lower

Is this a trick question? Lol!

Mine is all 1968, engine, transmission, transfer case, axles, tub, top.. However, that’s not to say it’s all original, lots of GM parts….carburetor, steering, brakes…..and I think there is least 1 Mopar piece in the mix. But its heart and soul...

Original no but I do now.

Mine is still mostly ‘79-80. I did put an FJ60 distributor in it, an H41 from some unknown year of Aussie Cruiser, and an FZJ80 brake master cylinder, but the rest of the mods are all aftermarket stuff - ARB, Orion, 4+, Warn, City Racer...

Mine: (1) Chassis and body 76, (2) Hard top post 76, (3) front dors pre 75, (4) Engine from 77...= minimum 4

Looks great! I might have some questions for you later. I have a TROA top as well with some overseas OEM bows