When in doubt, break out the multimeter. You need to figure out if power is getting to the motor when you’re pressing the switch. Take a look at the EWD and understand what color wires should be doing what when you press the switches. If the motor is getting power, but your window isn’t moving...
Thanks for the reply. I definitely want to go with OEM. I was more just trying to figure out the difference between these part numbers. At the end of the day, I am going to trust an Onur recommendation over some random parts counter guy, I just wanted to make sure what was good for ‘95 was also...
I've seen numerous references in various posts to 48531-69417 for the OEM rear 80 shocks - they seem to be the beno rear shock of choice - but one of the parts guys at the dealership formerly known as McGeorge is telling me I should be ordering 48531-69535 instead. I have a '94 and the other...
Finally fixed this madness… I shook various sections of my wiring harness until I heard the engine speed change while shaking it around the #1 injector. The connector was making enough contact for it to ohm out correctly on a meter, but not enough contact to actually run the injector. I cut the...
I've spent some time searching previous posts, and I am coming up dry. Does anyone know the Toyota P./N for the O2 sensor studs and nuts for a 93/94 exhaust?
Thanks!
You can also probably rent a fuel pressure tester from an auto parts store if you don’t have one. Connecting it is a little bit of a hassle (you need to remove the banjo bolt from the back of the fuel rail and use an adapter - there is no pre-existing test port) but it will instantly confirm if...
Does your dash totally go out when this happens? When I had a short impacting my ECM, I'd hit a bump, and everything would die. Engine stalled, dash went totally dark, no lights. It was instant stall and death. The way you describe it, it almost sounds like you are losing fuel pressure.
Malleus is probably right - It’s probably is easier to pull the UIM, butI have VSV PTSD. I’ve pulled that stupid thing off enough times that I just go out of my way to avoid it!
It occurs to me that the EGR may also be in the way of getting to the banjo bolt on the other end of the pipe. My EGR is long gone, so I didn’t have an issue there. Just something to consider - YMMV.
Removing the alternator and reaching in from the front also gives you a surprising amount of maneuverability between the upper and lower intakes. It's time consuming, but it really opens everything up. You can get your whole arm in there and get some leverage.
If you want to go for the nuclear...
Do you have any pics? I've been considering doing this to my axles but I haven't been able to stomach the cost so far. I also keep seeing various references to it being somewhat poisonous. Not sure how overhyped that is. Were the vapors pretty strong when you applied it?
Mine went out at 272k ('94 FZJ80 US spec) - on #6 right near the EGR pipe. It was consuming coolant. Previous owner also overheated it several times when the PHH went out around 190k but it didn't blow then. I have since blocked off the EGR and replaced with a new OEM HG.
First off, let me apologize for the long post – I’ve tried to limit this to only relevant info to the issue. My truck is a bone stock US ’94 FJZ80. I am going crazy trying to troubleshoot a misfire and loss of power, accompanied by code 25/26. This started back in 2019, I later discovered the...