Recent content by Gareth

Buy them and sell the rubber.

Sold $2000 Set of four TRD "Beadlock" PTR18-35090 (not real beadlock) wheel, tires, tpms sensors, and lugnuts. Like new $2000 for everything.

Northwest fuel injection http://www.nwfuel.ca/ They are the best, and most of the local "diesel experts" actually send their injectors and pump work out to NW. I've been working in the automotive repair industry for 10+ years in the lower mainland and they are by far the best diesel injection...

double post

Those are the bearings I put in my truck. Personally I doubt that any bearings can fix a fundamental design flaw. I have 5k on them so far, I put about 30k+ kms a year so if this thread is still alive in 2019 I'll put some pics up.

Its the side gears/spider gears in the diffs that cause that clunk multiply that by 3 diffs and that's where the slop comes from The side/spider gears are easy to replace most diff shops will refer to it as a nest kit. The center diff will be a bit more involved, but it's the same basic parts...

Timing belt every 100k and bearings 150k It takes about 2.5 hours + the price of bearings and a tube of silicone. Not a big deal.

I am a mechanic (13 years exp Red Seal certified) 35 psi at idle would be considered normal for most vehicles, and good for a truck with 310k kms.

Not trying to be a dick and start an internet argument, but there's no way you've spent any time around engines if you think 35psi at idle is too high. You'll notice that the posted specs by toyota are minimumand always state "or more"

Just because the minimum spec is 4psi doesn't mean its "good" to have that little oil pressure. If you haven't already you should hook up a mechanical guage and check yours. Manufacturers will generally set specs like that to avoid having to do warranty work. Look at chrysler's spec for dodge...

There was nothing on the back of the bearing shells, IP was properly timed, as for how the previous owners drove it I have no clue. I'm not looking for a diagnosis on how the bearings failed, It's clearly the same reason the oem ones failed. I'm posting this because there is a lack of...

I'm not sure what you mean by "debris on the backside of the shell" There was nothing trapped between the bearing and the rod. There is no coolant in the oil either. The motor is in great shape, it's spotless inside, no sludge and 35psi oil pressure at hot idle. I posted these pictures...

Not sure. At the time that picture was taken I'd only had the truck for ~15k kms.

The rest look the same. That was the worst, though not by much.

Probably should have mentioned that it was out of a 1990 1hdt.