Recent content by CaptBeardilocks

Being a manual transmission truck and avoiding cities, I don't even use my brakes all that much. Lol. And honestly, I have a lot of other things on this truck that I would upgrade before that. Especially at what I'm seeing kits running. I have now properly bled the MC. I re-bled the lines...

I have never seen that for sale. Not that I was previously looking for it. Lol. I'm at a crossroads right now. Fresh BEBs and fresh oil in it. But the oil pan didn't seal this time (maybe bad sealant that never set up? wouldn't be the first time). So it has to come off again one way or...

Yeah their 15w-40. Occasionally I’ve gone full synth. But she likes the blend better, burns almost nothing on the blend. I also tend to throw in 1qt of Lucas Stabilizer on changes. That quiets her down a bit. The sound really gets to you after a while. Lol. I do a lot of offroad miles...

I’ll dig into that paper over coffee tomorrow. But other than the 195k mile original BEBs I pulled, I haven’t seen signs of cavitation. That was all on the lower bearings for that. Resonance I’ll 100% believe. Because it’s really at a certain RPM range that it’s apparent/stressful. Lol...

Engine is an early one: 1990 (I’d have to look up exactly but it’s early). I know the pistons are an issue and I’m planning on replacing them when I have a need to pop the lid off. But compression numbers are great right now. And I’m wary of just doing a quick piston replacement without...

My 1HDT has about 250k miles on it. I've put about 55k of that on it. In that time I have run 3 sets of BEBs on the truck. Always the same pattern: The bottom halves look fine and the top halves are hammered out a bit. It took me until I just put the 4th set on to be absolutely sure that...

Would air in the system still give me a firm pedal with the truck off? That's what's confusing me. I did bleed the MC per the FSM, but I'm not sure that method is really all that effective (lines off, gently press in brake pedal, hold fingers over the holes in the MC and release the brake)...

As far as I can tell it’s original. So 250k miles

FWIW I just adjusted the Rod (it did need it) and bled the MC per FDM (followed by the calipers again). No change. At idle, the brake pedal creeps to nearly the floor. Engine off, the pedal holds firm. Next I’ll try plugging the ports on the MC to try to test if it’s leaking internally...

I’ve already done all that. Fresh calipers & ABS/load valve delete in the original build. Still chasing soft pedal.

Ok. So testing the booster per the FSM, it operates as it should. The only weird thing is that, on shutting the truck off and pumping the pedal (it gradually gets harder as it should), if I then hold the pedal down (truck off) it will very slowly drop all the way to the floor. So I’m...

Interesting thing I’ve noticed now that I’m paying more attention to my brakes: With truck off and just sitting, the pedal is firm and doesn’t fade. But once I start it, the pedal is solid for a second before it starts to slowly drop further towards the floor. I can pump it up a bit, but...

There's plenty of threads on here where people have done them. Lots of info in those. Off the top of my head the parts of the job that require fabrication were the crossmember (different bolt-up locations) and the transmission tunnel hole needing to be reworked. And I removed a lot of the...

Those look really cool. Especially for the rears. But what I'm talking about here are the inner AXLE seal. Not in the inner HUB seal. Different animal. Unless I'm missing something.

I have new(ish) RCV axles and may third set of OEM seals is currently in there leaking. So it's time for a new approach. I'm not in any way confident, it's more of a Hail Mary before I have to face the prospect of housing replacement. The Marlins are very reasonably priced ($12), but...