Recent content by Albatross80

P600325 Donaldson Original Rbr Elbow. The other two pieces are a 4" to 3.75" reducer and a 4" elbow(I forget what angle it is, it came from an Airaid AIR-100-400 UBI (U-Build-It) Intake Kit) Another nice thing about using the H2 air cleaner is that it already fits the GM MAF.

Hummer H2 air cleaner. Fits great and should have more than enough air flow (designed for the 6.2L LQ4) plus great filtration from the Donaldson air filters they use. I'm pretty committed to never running a snorkel.

Theme of the first summer road trip: Heat Management I discovered two main issues: 1. Air bubbles forming in the engine’s coolant passages 2. ATF temperatures climbing as high as +230°F while climbing the mountains toward Flagstaff Despite these problems, I never fully overheated. My setup...

I first changed the radiator cap in Dallas, where I first experienced the not-overheating/boil over. It resolved it until I got to the mountains in AZ. Currently I’m running a week old 13psi cap. The GM cap on the expansion tank is 15

I see a lot of people running the stock overflow setup and it genuinely baffles me. I wasn't having issues until I traveled to high elevation. My car never overheated once, but when I stopped the engine I believe heat soak caused localized boiling, which caused the overflow tank to...overflow...

Anyone tried grounding Pin 16? According to Grok, this can change the behavior of the transmission slowing the output shaft (a still spinning output shaft being the likely cause of the grinding between hi/lo).

Wow, I guess my mistake. I interpreted the listing as appropriate replacement for my OEM hubs and flanges. I torqued them to whatever the FSM called for.

I bought supposedly aisin studs from cruiserteq when I did my rebuild and they the threads stripped on every one of them until I gave up. I shelled out for OEM from them and had no issues. I'm unsure why they bother selling the cheaper stud kit. I should really write customer service but I'm...

Why are you looking to replace it?

My first pan was an F-body. It cracked after contacting the front diff when I hit a big dip in the road. (OME 2.5, Landtank 2.5" plates)

For castor correction I'm using the Landtank 2.5" plates. Selkirk/Land Cruiser Shop recommends using the F-body pan and at least a 2.5" lift.

Do all the oil pan holes line up with your block? I'm running the H3 Alpha/Colorado pan with my LM4 and not all the holes line up. With the LCS motor mounts and OME 2.5" lift, the pan clears the front diff easily but will contact the tie rod at full static compression(hangs lower than F-body...

You could find a junkyard Toyota pump but get a new gasket to fit it to the tank. You’d have to splice the new connector though. Get the pigtail from the donor car.

Finished installing the H3 pan today. It wasn't the final solution I was hoping it would be but I'm going to have to run with it for now. There is now plenty of diff clearance at full compression; even enough for lateral movement that may happen with bushing flex. However, the H3 pan is...

I don’t unfortunately. I ordered an eBay copy kit.