chubot

I got my brake light switch replaced and the brakes are working great. I guess you really have to work to get the air out of those wheel cylinders. Tapping on the rear brake line that runs across the rear axle seemed to work pretty good. Now it’s...

I’ve always found the buddy system is better than a pressure bleeder. Doing it solo sucks but a 2x4 or correct length stub from seat to pedal after pumping it up works as a “temp” buddy also. Just have a lot of laps to do! Also, a shortcut I’ve...

Ok I just need to replace the brake light switch then. It’s been working intermittently.

The brake light switch that controls the rear brake lights is on the pedal. The light on the dash is activated by the sensors on the brake master cylinder/emergency brake lever.

I did tighten the cylinders up pretty tight. Just enough so I couldn’t turn the wheels by hand.

The movement will be greater if the rear isn't as tightly adjusted as before - didnt you tighen them right up in order to bleed though?

Ok I’m good on the fluid and the woosh sound is just when you press the brake pedal. It’s stopping good but the pedal is definitely not where it used to be and my brake light switch is not working consistently. Does anyone know if the brake...

You only get into trouble when you mix glycol based and silicone based fluids. They won't actually "mix". Technically you can mix DOT ratings but you shouldn't put say DOT-4 in a DOT-5 vehicle. There's other differences but the big one is boiling...

⬆️ above post. To check if MC is bad is a simple test: hold brake pedal (motor off) then turn motor on-pedal should sink. If it doesn't=either master check valve/grommet or master is bad.

Ok, so I just did the booster test and everything works as described. I’m going to order the motive pressure bleeder or see if I get one at my local parts store. When I put a clamp on the soft line going to the rear the pedal like TexLX450 said...

Well, not necessarily bad. Boosters do make some noise as they're using vacuum to lessen the required pedal force. Too much noise is bad though. From an old SOR catalog... To check your booster: 1. Engine off - press the brake pedal several...

Ok, she stops but there’s a loud woosh of air coming from the booster and the pedal definitely goes down further than it used too. Could this mean my booster is bad? I made a video but not sure how to post it.

Thanks TexLX450, I will try this. I just didn’t think it would be this difficult to get air out of the system.

I posted this on another thread. Replaced all hoses, front calipers, and rear wheel cylnders on my '77. Spent days bleeding in all different processes. Nothing worked, until this: . . . . here is what got it done for me after (a) a power...

Can also try setting your truck up as nose down as you can, either jack up the back or set up on steepest slope you can find. If there's a bubble sitting in the mc it can work its way back to the reservoir as you bleed, or just repeatedly apply...

Hopefully it will help isolate where the air is.

You’re right, I didn’t know that. I did notice that the brake fluid labeled as synthetic seemed a little thinner than the other. Either way, I need to get some more fluid and try to get more air out of the system. Maybe try the vice grips on the...

As i recall, most all brake fluids are synthetic, except for some British types. I always use DOT3.

I’ve been on vacation and haven’t posted in a while. I swapped out the synthetic brake fluid for some conventional and noticed a considerable difference in brake pedal. Is there any problem with using synthetic brake fluid in an old rig that any...

If you changed the master and let the fluid drain out of the lines at the wheels also. it will take longer than you think to pump all that air out of that far wheel. I just replaced some brake lines on my crusier and called my 40 year brake guy...

To isolate if the problem is in the frt or the rear, you can use a pair of vise grips on the rear soft line. If the pedal gets better then you still have air in the rear. Carefully adjust the vise grips. You want to block the flow and not crush...

If there isn't any fluid leaking out of the wheel cylinders or fittings and you've got no pedal resistance then it's either excessive air in the lines (air doesn't compress well in a brake system) or fluid is bypassing the seals inside the master...