Recent content by chubot

I got my brake light switch replaced and the brakes are working great. I guess you really have to work to get the air out of those wheel cylinders. Tapping on the rear brake line that runs across the rear axle seemed to work pretty good. Now it’s time to replace some suspension bushings.

Ok I just need to replace the brake light switch then. It’s been working intermittently.

I did tighten the cylinders up pretty tight. Just enough so I couldn’t turn the wheels by hand.

Ok I’m good on the fluid and the woosh sound is just when you press the brake pedal. It’s stopping good but the pedal is definitely not where it used to be and my brake light switch is not working consistently. Does anyone know if the brake lights are tied to the pressure switches? Like, if...

Ok, so I just did the booster test and everything works as described. I’m going to order the motive pressure bleeder or see if I get one at my local parts store. When I put a clamp on the soft line going to the rear the pedal like TexLX450 said, it was rock solid so I know my calipers are good...

Ok, she stops but there’s a loud woosh of air coming from the booster and the pedal definitely goes down further than it used too. Could this mean my booster is bad? I made a video but not sure how to post it.

Thanks TexLX450, I will try this. I just didn’t think it would be this difficult to get air out of the system.

You’re right, I didn’t know that. I did notice that the brake fluid labeled as synthetic seemed a little thinner than the other. Either way, I need to get some more fluid and try to get more air out of the system. Maybe try the vice grips on the soft lines trick.

I’ve been on vacation and haven’t posted in a while. I swapped out the synthetic brake fluid for some conventional and noticed a considerable difference in brake pedal. Is there any problem with using synthetic brake fluid in an old rig that any of you guys have noticed?

I just found a YouTube video where the guy was bleeding his brakes with the truck running. He found that air was entering in through the wheel cylinder piston. He replaced the wheel cylinder and solved his problem. I’ve replaced my wheel cylinder's and still no pedal. I haven’t had time this...

Man I feel your pain. I just replaced the rr cylinders with the same CCOT I have on the LR. I’m getting solid fluid at both rear wheels and the right front caliper. But when I get to the left front caliper I’m getting a lot of air.

I replaced my air bleeder hose with clear hose and re-bled the brakes. I’m getting solid fluid from the left rear but when I get to the right rear there’s a lot of air. I’m thinking I got some bad wheel cylinders from rockauto.

I do have the pressure switch connected but there’s no light on my dash on this 40. There’s some holes there though.

I did bench bleed the master and it’s hard to see if the air bubbles are completely gone when I use the harbor freight air bleeder. I do have a firm pedal when the trucks not running but pedal goes to floor when it is running. It looks like the booster is working, but there’s a woosh of air when...

I haven’t put a hand vacuum pump on it yet but I did inspect the check valve and it seems to be fine. When I pulled the check valve out, a lot of air came out of the hole. I’m not sure if that means it’s holding pressure because I’ve never had to mess with a booster. I was thinking of a gravity...