spressomon

Yes...this demon started about 9-years ago when it did the now infamous no-start while out in the middle of nowhere Nevada. Ran Medtro's bypass kit without issue (+ side of the EFI fuse was burnt...) until last fall when it stalled w/o...

@spressomon It was helpful for me to disconnect all the electrical connections first because I didn’t know how many fasteners there actually were. Pics now are much more helpful. I have an extra junction block should you need any parts.

^ Thanks...that is a huge help!

May help you visualize where they are.

Ok, piling on here...ditto electrical gremlin that blows the under hood EFI 20A fuse when the key is just inserted! Ryan, Toyota Tech here in Nevada was able to narrow/chase the short to the driver's side interior fuse/junction block assembly...

Correct, it's a diversion door. You pull the knob upward to fuel the sub. Down for the main. The door does not completely block the main when the sub is selected. If using the sub you need to fill it first, then the main. If you fill the main...

Yes. All custom. IMO, not worth the ton-o-time I have in it. By design they have to have oil and separating it is nearly impossible. Given lithium battery tech and prices today compared to 15-years ago when I did the Sanden OBA project...

Oh! Thanks! I have been googling trying to find a 10 to 6 but haven’t been able to. I found 12 to 8 but couldn’t find 10 to 6. This is great! Thanks.

If a butt connector would work...then you want a step down style. https://newwiremarine.com/product/step-up-butt-connector-10-12-6-8-awg/?srsltid=AfmBOooO1mrMw3v56Ig5i5T4qks_uFS33nOLgCSeQV-567_EvNb76hsk

Well, not what I wanted to find when installing @medtro's kit. His kit got the truck going again, I might just wire the power straight to the battery as suggested, but also think I might pull the painful trigger on the whole fuse box. Props to...

I'm going to take a moment and make a comment for the benefit of anyone experiencing a similar issue. Ok, I've had a transmission-related vibration pretty much since I finished the conversion. The symptoms were a very noticeable vibration when...

Going through the same scenario right now! Per @Trapper50cal I ordered, installed and can confirm the 60023 variant is identical to the original fuse box I just removed from my '99 w/rear AC. Even after the new fuse box, its still blowing...

The fuse blows with the key at ACC...before starter and fuel pump circuit is engaged. Going at it again today...I'm sure it will eventually be a "ah ha" moment when I find the short. Hopefully.

Ok, a Hail Mary pass here...Bueller? Same symptoms here...

Thanks @medtro, another 100 series made it home. I’ve been wiggling the fuse and relay for the last week, last night that routine failed to get it started and I drove home from work with a jumper wire straight from the battery. Made it home...

@spressomon I did not. I figured the old one lasted 23 years and I could live with that. But it turned out it wasn't even the problem. I had been chasing a "Crank/NoStart" issue and it turned out to be the fuel pump 🤣 Sidenote: One of the cool...

One more Q: After you installed the new fuse box assembly, did you opt to run the bypass kit & relay or no? Seems prudent to run it with larger AWG, etc., to cut down on heat effect...dunno.

Thank You!

@spressomon -60023 will work in '99, the confirmation is under my hood. A friend that has worked in Toyota's parts department said it's a case of internal linear supersession with the number.

Ok, resurrecting this thread...for a friend :rofl:... Anyone, by chance, know what the difference is between 82720-60022 and 82720-60023 and whether or not the -60023 variant can be used in the friend's 1999 UZJ100 (since -60022 has been so...