spressomon

Oh! Thanks! I have been googling trying to find a 10 to 6 but haven’t been able to. I found 12 to 8 but couldn’t find 10 to 6. This is great! Thanks.

If a butt connector would work...then you want a step down style. https://newwiremarine.com/product/step-up-butt-connector-10-12-6-8-awg/?srsltid=AfmBOooO1mrMw3v56Ig5i5T4qks_uFS33nOLgCSeQV-567_EvNb76hsk

Well, not what I wanted to find when installing @medtro's kit. His kit got the truck going again, I might just wire the power straight to the battery as suggested, but also think I might pull the painful trigger on the whole fuse box. Props to...

I'm going to take a moment and make a comment for the benefit of anyone experiencing a similar issue. Ok, I've had a transmission-related vibration pretty much since I finished the conversion. The symptoms were a very noticeable vibration when...

Going through the same scenario right now! Per @Trapper50cal I ordered, installed and can confirm the 60023 variant is identical to the original fuse box I just removed from my '99 w/rear AC. Even after the new fuse box, its still blowing...

The fuse blows with the key at ACC...before starter and fuel pump circuit is engaged. Going at it again today...I'm sure it will eventually be a "ah ha" moment when I find the short. Hopefully.

Ok, a Hail Mary pass here...Bueller? Same symptoms here...

Thanks @medtro, another 100 series made it home. I’ve been wiggling the fuse and relay for the last week, last night that routine failed to get it started and I drove home from work with a jumper wire straight from the battery. Made it home...

@spressomon I did not. I figured the old one lasted 23 years and I could live with that. But it turned out it wasn't even the problem. I had been chasing a "Crank/NoStart" issue and it turned out to be the fuel pump 🤣 Sidenote: One of the cool...

One more Q: After you installed the new fuse box assembly, did you opt to run the bypass kit & relay or no? Seems prudent to run it with larger AWG, etc., to cut down on heat effect...dunno.

Thank You!

@spressomon -60023 will work in '99, the confirmation is under my hood. A friend that has worked in Toyota's parts department said it's a case of internal linear supersession with the number.

Ok, resurrecting this thread...for a friend :rofl:... Anyone, by chance, know what the difference is between 82720-60022 and 82720-60023 and whether or not the -60023 variant can be used in the friend's 1999 UZJ100 (since -60022 has been so...

OK. Drawing this to a close - I solved it, and I guess I'm an idiot, but in my defense this is the first time I've heard of this. It was exactly as someone said here - the 5v difference issue. My battery sat at around 13.5 volts and I was...

Good news! FYI, yes you only get 1/2 the amps in series, but 2x the voltage & therefore the same watts from the solar charge controller to the battery. Plus a little less wire resistance between the panels and the charge controller. Win-win.

You probably stated this already, but I'm too lazy to look :hillbilly:. What do you have the max charge voltage set to in the charge controller settings?

Sheesh! It seems to be acting like a loose wire connection. Have you tried bypassing the BlueSea fuse block entirely...as a test? Dunno, just a wild guess...and it doesn't really hold water even as a guess: I wonder if the battery's BMS...

@Tennessee Jed, just in case you are not aware, Victron MPPT solar charge controllers require a 5v differential from static battery charge and incoming voltage from the charge controller...to initiate current flow. Other brands might be like...

If you mean that you set a regular multimeter on current mode and touch the test leads to the still-connected ends of either the panel or the battery cable at the junction block, and then read the current value like that, well, that's a new one...