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If you haven't already, next time put a bit of dish detergent in water and apply to the area where you suspect a leak. You will be able to tell easily where the leak is actually located.

are there supposed to be separate serrated pipe jaws for it?

^^ well, in some places like the UK and Ireland for example, where all the household stuff is 220V, power tools used professionally are usually 110V because they are safer and so better for construction sites for instance. I can vouch for that...

dang... seeing how you're going, you better get a bigger forklift soon!

I would imagine that with capacitors the blast won't last very long before they are discharged. Wonder if that would be a problem for engines that are slow to start.

the Knipex cutters are typically very strong and I like that they also tell you clearly the max you can cut with them, quite the difference with many other brands. Good stuff.

I'm always using nitrile gloves. Work fine. I was given a box of -I'm sure inexpensive- -and thin- vinyl gloves. I'm lucky if they don't tear just putting them on (and the size is correct). But if they don't, they will for sure within 5mins...

I would tread carefully with those anvils. They do look a lot like cheap cast chinese anvils.

sounds fine then. There are many vids on YT about soldering XT60s and SBs. Have a look, it's very easy. You can find soldering irons for very cheap (or even free) on CL and at garage sales. For the big stuff you can use an inexpensive...

sorry, missed the bit about using a 24V input. Then, yes, of course the current will be cut in half. So, if you go instead straight from the SB120 to the Ecoflow without the DC-DC, what current will the Ecoflow allow? If it's low and around...

it is true that if you increase the voltage through the DC-DC that will reduce the amps, but if you go from a 12V battery to charging a 12V battery, the difference in voltage may be around 2V or so, so not a big difference, and the amps won't go...

If you have 40A going into the Victron, you'll have something similar coming out of it, and it shows 10AWG there in your diagram.

It's not that difficult to do decent soldering, actually. Just any DIYer should be able to do that with minimal practice. Give it a try. A useful skill to know. If you think that wire will see 40A, what about the 10AWG then? I'd be more...

That would be pretty easy to make yourself. You would need a couple of tools if you don't have them already (soldering iron etc) but those are inexpensive and you would likely use them again in the future. It's nice to be able to customize...

oh, and BTW, FWIW, and if you didn't know already, some modern(ish) fridges have extensive self-checks menus. You push a combination of buttons on the front panel, it enters a diagnostics mode and you can run a bunch of tests that can give...

no, was not thinking about those (post 12). Picture a block like a cube, 2 wires coming in left side holes, 2 coming out of the right, 4 screws on top to squeeze each of the wires. I've never loctited these kind of connectors. Never had one...

^ Yes, that's the one I saw. But OP, since you'll likely need 2 of those, if you want this to look tidier you can get essentially multiple of those connectors in a block plastic housing. May look better and be safer. Surely quite a bit...

not like that, bigger, chunkier, and with holes where the wire is squeezed instead of a top screw like in that pic. Think breakers. Google Electrical wire splicer/reducer or something like that, HomeDepot has some big inline ones IIRC. A...

There are also the screw strip connectors. Nice to be removable. Or use a switch or a breaker to do the step down if that would be helpful also. And you could put a ferrule on the 10 to help even all that out a bit.

an easy / fast way would be a chunk of cylindrical rod with a blind hole of the correct diameter drilled in, the edges rounded a bit, and the knob loctited to the handle, maybe?

well, as mentioned above, it is easy to have both an individual and the sum showing at the same time on a dual display. So, not too hard to figure out the other one. Or use a switch to flip from one individual battery reading to the other...

some of the posts above feel rather "weighty"....

well, if you are interested in electricity rates, I suggest you read a bit more about generation vs delivery charges, common surcharges and fees, peak rates, time of use rates, summer vs winter rates, etc. Maybe figure out your own local rates...

Lucky you, nice to be in a 12c / kWh area. Us, it's more like 45 or 50 now. And my current kitchen fridge (now 8 years old) is using 430kWh / yr (my measurements). My earlier Subzero fridge was costing me in the high 3 figures / yr to run if...

Yup, not surprised. But from what I saw on my fridge, it would likely take some major -if even possible at all- door disassembly to change those hoses, unfortunately.