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oh, and BTW, FWIW, and if you didn't know already, some modern(ish) fridges have extensive self-checks menus. You push a combination of buttons on the front panel, it enters a diagnostics mode and you can run a bunch of tests that can give...

no, was not thinking about those (post 12). Picture a block like a cube, 2 wires coming in left side holes, 2 coming out of the right, 4 screws on top to squeeze each of the wires. I've never loctited these kind of connectors. Never had one...

^ Yes, that's the one I saw. But OP, since you'll likely need 2 of those, if you want this to look tidier you can get essentially multiple of those connectors in a block plastic housing. May look better and be safer. Surely quite a bit...

not like that, bigger, chunkier, and with holes where the wire is squeezed instead of a top screw like in that pic. Think breakers. Google Electrical wire splicer/reducer or something like that, HomeDepot has some big inline ones IIRC. A...

There are also the screw strip connectors. Nice to be removable. Or use a switch or a breaker to do the step down if that would be helpful also. And you could put a ferrule on the 10 to help even all that out a bit.

an easy / fast way would be a chunk of cylindrical rod with a blind hole of the correct diameter drilled in, the edges rounded a bit, and the knob loctited to the handle, maybe?

well, as mentioned above, it is easy to have both an individual and the sum showing at the same time on a dual display. So, not too hard to figure out the other one. Or use a switch to flip from one individual battery reading to the other...

some of the posts above feel rather "weighty"....

well, if you are interested in electricity rates, I suggest you read a bit more about generation vs delivery charges, common surcharges and fees, peak rates, time of use rates, summer vs winter rates, etc. Maybe figure out your own local rates...

Lucky you, nice to be in a 12c / kWh area. Us, it's more like 45 or 50 now. And my current kitchen fridge (now 8 years old) is using 430kWh / yr (my measurements). My earlier Subzero fridge was costing me in the high 3 figures / yr to run if...

Yup, not surprised. But from what I saw on my fridge, it would likely take some major -if even possible at all- door disassembly to change those hoses, unfortunately.

Yes, I had a Subzero fridge too for many years. It failed early on during the warranty period and then again later on. And when it did fail last, I found out that it was cheaper to buy a new less expensive fridge than to fix the old Subzero out...

tell us more. Hopefully they are quite a bit better design considering they are 5 or 10x more expensive... But for context, I should have added that in my case it took 8 years for those wires to break. It's not like they are likely to fail...

OP, on a side note, rereading post #3, if you meant that you are leaving the charge controller set to 14.6V all the time, even when the battery is fully charged, that may not be a great idea. My understanding is that LiFeP batteries don't like that.

Got into an interesting / potentially serious issue recently. You know how fridges nowadays often have an electronic panel, ice dispenser etc on a front door? Well, I never stopped to consider how those are wired. It turns out that in many cases...

^^^ It is true that you (usually) need more than 12V to charge a "12V" battery. But that's at the battery posts. Not at the power source. DC-DC converters can certainly generate 14V from less than 12V. ^ Whereas it may be fine to use 2...

does look retro all right, but dang that is some current there for the apparent size... Hope it works for you!

I've used one of those large (12") metal syringes with a piston. And also used gear oil gallon bottles sold with a little manual pump that fits directly on the neck.

Along those lines, keep in mind too that LiFeP batteries -unlike lead acid- have a very flat discharge voltage curve. IOW, they will stay around 13V during most of their discharge process and then drop hard quickly after that when they are...

well, as to battery type, I would definitely go with a Lithium iron phosphate battery and definitely not with a lead acid one. But if you do the former, check the max current out to see if it's sufficient. On a related note, one thing about...

I think that regardless of claims and of what -even good- reviews tell you about how accurate the new torque wrench model is, it is a good idea to test / calibrate the specific one you got anyway, since they can vary a bit. Given that it's so...

George is correct. What you see is normal, even without parasitic drain. The key here is that there is likely no significant state of charge difference between the maxs and mins you see in the sawtooth pattern. The difference in seen voltage...

I see that all (?) Braun lights are on sale tomorrow 7/26 at 40% off (in store).

unfortunately, my own experience and much of what I've seen online is that once a lead acid battery is bad, it's usually not salvageable in the long run. I could be convinced that one could see some temporary improvement but probably not go from...

Thanks all. Well, looks like it was not the EGR after all, it was apparently a fuel issue, so false alert. I suppose that is good except that I don't think the EGR is doing too well and I may need to deal with it anyway before too long. Or the...