Recent content by e9999

It's not that difficult to do decent soldering, actually. Just any DIYer should be able to do that with minimal practice. Give it a try. A useful skill to know. If you think that wire will see 40A, what about the 10AWG then? I'd be more concerned about that than about the 4 vs 6.

That would be pretty easy to make yourself. You would need a couple of tools if you don't have them already (soldering iron etc) but those are inexpensive and you would likely use them again in the future. It's nice to be able to customize your electricals. I'd look into it if I were you...

oh, and BTW, FWIW, and if you didn't know already, some modern(ish) fridges have extensive self-checks menus. You push a combination of buttons on the front panel, it enters a diagnostics mode and you can run a bunch of tests that can give error messages if there is something wrong. I think...

no, was not thinking about those (post 12). Picture a block like a cube, 2 wires coming in left side holes, 2 coming out of the right, 4 screws on top to squeeze each of the wires. I've never loctited these kind of connectors. Never had one come loose. But I always use ferrules. Without...

^ Yes, that's the one I saw. But OP, since you'll likely need 2 of those, if you want this to look tidier you can get essentially multiple of those connectors in a block plastic housing. May look better and be safer. Surely quite a bit costlier, though. I have my quarrels with HD and often...

not like that, bigger, chunkier, and with holes where the wire is squeezed instead of a top screw like in that pic. Think breakers. Google Electrical wire splicer/reducer or something like that, HomeDepot has some big inline ones IIRC. A ferrule would increase the effective diameter of the...

There are also the screw strip connectors. Nice to be removable. Or use a switch or a breaker to do the step down if that would be helpful also. And you could put a ferrule on the 10 to help even all that out a bit.

an easy / fast way would be a chunk of cylindrical rod with a blind hole of the correct diameter drilled in, the edges rounded a bit, and the knob loctited to the handle, maybe?

well, as mentioned above, it is easy to have both an individual and the sum showing at the same time on a dual display. So, not too hard to figure out the other one. Or use a switch to flip from one individual battery reading to the other while keeping the sum showing. Or get another...

some of the posts above feel rather "weighty"....

well, if you are interested in electricity rates, I suggest you read a bit more about generation vs delivery charges, common surcharges and fees, peak rates, time of use rates, summer vs winter rates, etc. Maybe figure out your own local rates. And start a thread on all that if you'd like...

Lucky you, nice to be in a 12c / kWh area. Us, it's more like 45 or 50 now. And my current kitchen fridge (now 8 years old) is using 430kWh / yr (my measurements). My earlier Subzero fridge was costing me in the high 3 figures / yr to run if I remember correctly.

Yup, not surprised. But from what I saw on my fridge, it would likely take some major -if even possible at all- door disassembly to change those hoses, unfortunately.

Yes, I had a Subzero fridge too for many years. It failed early on during the warranty period and then again later on. And when it did fail last, I found out that it was cheaper to buy a new less expensive fridge than to fix the old Subzero out of warranty. And perhaps more importantly, that...

tell us more. Hopefully they are quite a bit better design considering they are 5 or 10x more expensive... But for context, I should have added that in my case it took 8 years for those wires to break. It's not like they are likely to fail right away, of course.