e9999's latest activity

Yes, I had a Subzero fridge too for many years. It failed early on during the warranty period and then again later on. And when it did fail last, I found out that it was cheaper to buy a new less expensive fridge than to fix the old Subzero out...

tell us more. Hopefully they are quite a bit better design considering they are 5 or 10x more expensive... But for context, I should have added that in my case it took 8 years for those wires to break. It's not like they are likely to fail...

OP, on a side note, rereading post #3, if you meant that you are leaving the charge controller set to 14.6V all the time, even when the battery is fully charged, that may not be a great idea. My understanding is that LiFeP batteries don't like that.

Got into an interesting / potentially serious issue recently. You know how fridges nowadays often have an electronic panel, ice dispenser etc on a front door? Well, I never stopped to consider how those are wired. It turns out that in many cases...

^^^ It is true that you (usually) need more than 12V to charge a "12V" battery. But that's at the battery posts. Not at the power source. DC-DC converters can certainly generate 14V from less than 12V. ^ Whereas it may be fine to use 2...

does look retro all right, but dang that is some current there for the apparent size... Hope it works for you!

I've used one of those large (12") metal syringes with a piston. And also used gear oil gallon bottles sold with a little manual pump that fits directly on the neck.

Along those lines, keep in mind too that LiFeP batteries -unlike lead acid- have a very flat discharge voltage curve. IOW, they will stay around 13V during most of their discharge process and then drop hard quickly after that when they are...

well, as to battery type, I would definitely go with a Lithium iron phosphate battery and definitely not with a lead acid one. But if you do the former, check the max current out to see if it's sufficient. On a related note, one thing about...

I think that regardless of claims and of what -even good- reviews tell you about how accurate the new torque wrench model is, it is a good idea to test / calibrate the specific one you got anyway, since they can vary a bit. Given that it's so...

George is correct. What you see is normal, even without parasitic drain. The key here is that there is likely no significant state of charge difference between the maxs and mins you see in the sawtooth pattern. The difference in seen voltage...

I see that all (?) Braun lights are on sale tomorrow 7/26 at 40% off (in store).

unfortunately, my own experience and much of what I've seen online is that once a lead acid battery is bad, it's usually not salvageable in the long run. I could be convinced that one could see some temporary improvement but probably not go from...

Thanks all. Well, looks like it was not the EGR after all, it was apparently a fuel issue, so false alert. I suppose that is good except that I don't think the EGR is doing too well and I may need to deal with it anyway before too long. Or the...

OK so I disconnected the flex fuel return line in the rear DS side of the bay. Yes, it is very easy and fast to do, if you're wondering. (Could not do it at the FPR, though.) I guess that is the answer to my original question then. And saw...

^ not too likely, I think, it ran fine for several minutes, that seems longer than what I'd expect on just the fuel in the lines. I will first check to see if there is gas coming to the fuel rail before adding more. Easy, and I don't want to...

^ good to know, thanks! Although I suppose one could argue it may depend on how it's stuck, but that is the devil's advocate talking, I guess.

No Schraeder valve anywhere in that fuel system, I assume? I just hope I didn't cook the fuel pump by running it with so little fuel in the tank....

^^^ Yes, I still need to verify that there is fuel getting to the injectors. To be done soon. ^^ Yes, I can test the EGR but I'd rather not do that now unless I know that it's a potential culprit. Last time I checked it, it worked fine IIRC...

I suspect that I may have some issues with my EGR given an OBD code I saw before. Is it possible that it might prevent the engine from starting at all (cranking but not firing) as I'm experiencing now? Perhaps by being stuck in the wrong...

yes, good point, that is sort of how I emptied the tank in the first place. I used a separate power source then IIRC, which was a pain so I wanted to avoid that to start with, but you are right, in this case it would only take a few seconds to...

ah, good point about cooling the pump, I do remember it being a bit higher up than the sock. Although you would think they designed it to work with low tank contents, so it may be primarily cooled internally. I did not want to add more fuel...

Had the 80 in storage for some time. I had emptied the tank with the fuel pump so there was very little gas left in the tank. I just drained the old gas that was left (less than a quart, turns out) through the drain plug and rinsed the tank...

It's not so much that the PWM controllers are not worth having in the absolute, it's that the MPPT ones are just much better (more power, more versatile, etc). But the latter are also more expensive so it's a judgement call, of course...

well, that looks like they have the absorption ("booster") voltage set to 14.4V, that is fine for lead acid. And the float to 13.7V, also fine. And it looks like it can be changed, good.