hobbes

apparently, the OP isn't too concerned about this, as he hasn't been back since he posted this thread on Jun 24th

It’s not hard to hit 2,000 hours in a full on nut & bolt build. 1,000-1,500 hours would be pretty normal for a restoration type build. You can easily have 300+hrs in just paint. Now most the builds we do are not 40’s but they are Land...

Sadly, I think this is 100% true. Look at the price of pretty much anything, and it has gone up a lot. ("A lot" is a nice way of saying a s***-ton.) Many of us bought our FJ40s, and/or parts for them, years ago when prices were SUBSTANTIALLY...

Too bad those things don't exist for those prices any more. I cannot remember the last time I saw an OEM full floater for sale, not that I look for them. Everyone seems to charge themselves $0 for labor. That's fine, but if you're paying for...

Maybe built by a guy in his garage doing it as side work as a hobby business, there is no way to do all that with actual overhead in 2025 though. Not at a high quality point and actually being profitable anyways.

original temp sensor location near the back of the block will give a better idea of what the engine temp is actually running

that is some interesting throttle linkage top of the valve cover should have a hose formed in a 90 degree bend to attach to the top of the air cleaner housing currently the open tube on the top of the air cleaner is sucking in unfiltered air...

my WAG is the engine is not original, the carb is earlier, along with some other stuff. as stated above several hoses not attached 2 small vacuum ports on top of air cleaner need to be capped off a few more pics needed, as for the dying issue...

Cool Cruisers of Texas also has some precut insulation you can put under the CityRacer mat.

I didn’t know those were still around. I might have my old busted up one somewhere. I actually never thought of using that one. I just bought the newer version since that old version requires a lot more than just vacuum to work. Vacuum...

I got mine from Toyota.

In November of last year I purchased a Stainless Steel down pipe for my 1968 FJ40. And finally in June 2025, got around to installing it. The pipe was sourced from SOR and yes, it was expensive. Is it worth it? I guess time will tell. So the...

I found a FJ70 steering wheel for my FJ40 with FJ80/105 power steering upgrade that is smaller then the stock wheel it was outfitted with.

I forgot about the big gay build. https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/big-gay-3fe-build.586967/

For me it was power steering. Second would be going full gay.

I don´t think his bracket did... should be bolt on... you were able to get the brackets and discs from Steve @Poser then source the rest on your own

Doesnt Posers? Maybe I’m recalling the parking brake cable.

I did fronts only. I figure the fronts are a safety issue. Additionally, converting the fronts is a "bolt on" exercise. The rears require welding. I do find my rear drums annoying because of the adjustments but I still run them (for now).

I’d rather fabricate from scratch than have to turn the handle every time I close it. The only unknown variable right now is Delrin, steel, or Aluminum. Leaning towards Delrin, steel rusts but I can weld it, and I don’t have a thick enough chunk...

I just bought some cheapie ambulance door strikers and ground to fit. I think the “ramp rate” is too high. You’ve got to put a quarter turn on the door handle to close the door. Latches solidly though.

Edison's iron nickel battery powered some early horseless carriages. Development is best left in the hands of free people. Being mandated by the central committee seldom works well. How many people defect to commusium vs those that loose their...

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IMHO early would be vacuum upper double motors... they suck next that suck would be the early dual upper electric motors... they suck ... (new they were most likely fine.... old they have two speeds ... slow and slower) however are the coolest...