Wow, that's great news! So what vehicle did this part come from? You may have found a huge $$$ savings for all of us here in the future!
Uhoh..My first high dollar repair at 232K. (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter mikeacs
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Wow, that's great news! So what vehicle did this part come from? You may have found a huge $$$ savings for all of us here in the future!
FWIW: Bleeding the calipers doesn't guarantee bleeding the ABS circuit. You could try the home mechanic method process (gravel road; lock the brakes activating ABS about 10-times to purge fluid through the ABS circuit). Or take it to the dealership for the ABS bleed (big $$$ SST required).
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APKhaos
Unfixing the unfixable
Its well worth identifying the part you got. I could save many of us who probably have this problem in our future.
Your efforts with this will be very much appreciated!
Your efforts with this will be very much appreciated!
- Thread starter
- #24
I'll see if I can find a part number, but based on what i've seen I believe the unit I got was for 2000 up land cruisers. The difference being what Hoser had pointed out, the number of brake lines entering the units...98-99 have 3, and 2000 up units having 4. The ABS pumps themselves are identical..
Not knowing what today's outcome would be at the salvage yard I purchased another abs/master setup off ebay that was listed for an 02-05 Land cruiser just for the ABS pump, (it was listed as having a bad m/c but good abs pump, plus it was cheap) as far as I can tell from the pic in the ebay listing, it is identical to what I picked up at the salvage yard today. It should be here in a few days and I will verify that its the same.. Anyway, I'll have a spare ABS pump if it happens again.
Not knowing what today's outcome would be at the salvage yard I purchased another abs/master setup off ebay that was listed for an 02-05 Land cruiser just for the ABS pump, (it was listed as having a bad m/c but good abs pump, plus it was cheap) as far as I can tell from the pic in the ebay listing, it is identical to what I picked up at the salvage yard today. It should be here in a few days and I will verify that its the same.. Anyway, I'll have a spare ABS pump if it happens again.
kz195688
SILVER Star
Sorry to bring back an old post but Mikeacs were you able to identify the year/vehicle the master/ABS system came off of. I just picked up a 1999 100 and have the same symptoms such as ABS and brake lights on, buzzer sounding, and some pressure in the brakes but have to pump twice for it to stop. Have tried to bleed according to info here using assistant and vacuum bleeder but no success. Vehicle stops but takes a little effort and I'm tired of the alarm buzzer. I won't drive it until I take care of this issue. Any info you can provide would be appreciated. I have done the search and have read numerous post but this info sounds promising. Thanks in advance for your response.
cboyd
GOLD Star
I just went through this exact same symptom on my 99. The diagnosis was a bad accumulator with codes C1256. Took it to a couple of guys to look at it but they referred me back to Toyota since they didn't want to work on or could not adequately bleed the entire system without the SST. Apparently the only real way to fully bleed the system through the ABS is with SST. According to them, the SST computer uses the ABS system to fully bleed out the lines.
I had convinced the dealer that while they were doing the accumulator swap out to also go ahead and do the piston rebuild kit (per threads here on Mud). It took a little convincing but they eventually agreed to do it. Fast forward to now, they couldn't actually get the accumulator assembly to separate from the master cylinder and I ended up getting an entire new master cylinder and accumulator.
Definitely a high dollar repair. After a bit of fussing with the pedal throw length, the good news is I like the brakes now....
Oh, and I got to keep the parts so I have a master cylinder assembly and bad accumulator for someone to rework if wanted.
I had convinced the dealer that while they were doing the accumulator swap out to also go ahead and do the piston rebuild kit (per threads here on Mud). It took a little convincing but they eventually agreed to do it. Fast forward to now, they couldn't actually get the accumulator assembly to separate from the master cylinder and I ended up getting an entire new master cylinder and accumulator.
Definitely a high dollar repair. After a bit of fussing with the pedal throw length, the good news is I like the brakes now....
Oh, and I got to keep the parts so I have a master cylinder assembly and bad accumulator for someone to rework if wanted.
Fellas,
I had a brake pedal remain stuck to the floor and had to use my foot to pull it back. I've experienced a sticky pedal sporadically the past 2 years and it still stops on a dime. I took it in to a mechanic that works on Cruisers and I can trust. They obviously did not know what was wrong and are trying to replace the entire brake module (Master Cylinder, Accumulator, etc...) that lists for $2900, they can get it for $2226. This does not include labor. FYI, I did not have any lights or buzzers come on. Am I crazy to accept that this is the only option?? They say it is a liability issue and would not want to do the piston rebuild kit for $50. Suggestions?
I had a brake pedal remain stuck to the floor and had to use my foot to pull it back. I've experienced a sticky pedal sporadically the past 2 years and it still stops on a dime. I took it in to a mechanic that works on Cruisers and I can trust. They obviously did not know what was wrong and are trying to replace the entire brake module (Master Cylinder, Accumulator, etc...) that lists for $2900, they can get it for $2226. This does not include labor. FYI, I did not have any lights or buzzers come on. Am I crazy to accept that this is the only option?? They say it is a liability issue and would not want to do the piston rebuild kit for $50. Suggestions?
What are the codes?
Having just gone through this, and assuming it's the sticky pedal, then @Skidoo 's thread on the $50 fix may work. There are also a couple threads on here about fixing the booster you might try.
A few weeks ago the brakes on my LC failed (went all the way to the floor). That was accompanied by the ABS and brake light appearing on the dash and buzzing. In the end I had the entire assembly replaced. And $2,226 is not a bad price, although you might get it cheaper if you contact one of the Mud vendors.
Having just gone through this, and assuming it's the sticky pedal, then @Skidoo 's thread on the $50 fix may work. There are also a couple threads on here about fixing the booster you might try.
A few weeks ago the brakes on my LC failed (went all the way to the floor). That was accompanied by the ABS and brake light appearing on the dash and buzzing. In the end I had the entire assembly replaced. And $2,226 is not a bad price, although you might get it cheaper if you contact one of the Mud vendors.
I did not have any codes.
After a long candid discussion with Cruiser Dan, he has assured me that replacing the whole enchilada is the way to go. Due to liability and safety for the family and the fact that I would like to keep this around as long as possible, it is the right choice. The mechanic I am working with is being very generous and helping me work through this and has even covered the rental vehicle until they fix it right.
Basically I have learned that the 100 series and Tacoma share similar setups where the brake master cylinder can be purchased alone or with the accumulator. The accumulator is an expensive piece too because of all of the brackets and accessories. Unfortunately this is a similar case like the integrated navigation/AC controls on the 100. Once that puppy goes out, it is a $4k unit to get your climate controls and stereo back. I'm glad I still have analog controls on mine
After a long candid discussion with Cruiser Dan, he has assured me that replacing the whole enchilada is the way to go. Due to liability and safety for the family and the fact that I would like to keep this around as long as possible, it is the right choice. The mechanic I am working with is being very generous and helping me work through this and has even covered the rental vehicle until they fix it right.
Basically I have learned that the 100 series and Tacoma share similar setups where the brake master cylinder can be purchased alone or with the accumulator. The accumulator is an expensive piece too because of all of the brackets and accessories. Unfortunately this is a similar case like the integrated navigation/AC controls on the 100. Once that puppy goes out, it is a $4k unit to get your climate controls and stereo back. I'm glad I still have analog controls on mine
