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My two ground rods, that were install during an electrical 'upgrade', are outside. Upgrade was done by a Master Electrician. I went from 150 amp service to 200 amp service, and added a 100 amp sub panel in my garage. The copper ground rods are probably 4' - 5' long. Might be a bit difficult pounding them in if space is limited.First question: can the ground rods be in the crawl space? My crawl space has standing room in it and is 44' long.
Mine uses one continuous stranded copper wire. The wire is un-insulated (bare), attached to the rods with clamps, and I would guess it's 2ga. When my house was built in the 1970's, it did not have the ground rods. Not code at the time. During the upgrade they were added to comply.Second question: does the ground wire need to be one continuous length from box to ground rod 1 to ground rod 2? Or can it be two pieces: one piece from box to ground rod 1 then one piece from ground rod 1 to ground rod 2?
Sure, drive them in at a 45* angle. Or drive them outside and bury them 6" deep once they are inspected.First question: can the ground rods be in the crawl space? My crawl space has standing room in it and is 44' long
250.64(C) grounding electrode conductors shall be installed in one continuous length without a splice or joint.Second question: does the ground wire need to be one continuous length from box to ground rod 1 to ground rod 2? Or can it be two pieces: one piece from box to ground rod 1 then one piece from ground rod 1 to ground rod 2?
This is correct, but your local codes may differ.My understanding is I will need two ground rods separated by at least 6'
250.66(A) grounding electrode conductor to a rod shall not be required to be larger than #6AWG as long as it does not extend to other types of grounding electrodes.the ground wire needs to be 6 gauge
This is where it gets tricky, yes, no, no ,yes, there are other considerations. Where is it currently bonded to the ground at? Where is your main breaker going? Are you going to create a parallel path for fault current between the grounding system and the grounded conductor(nuetral)?and the neutral shouldn't be bonded to the case.
What I'm doing really doesn't require a licensed electrician.