Front Mount Intercooler on BJ 60 with AC...

[slowandsteady BJ]

This project has taken some time as I have done bits and pieces over the last few months so I might be rusty on some of the details, bear with me.

The turbo stuff has been explained a hundred times so I wont get into that side of things too much.

My truck has AC which was a bit of a problem when it came time to choose a FMIC. I knew Id have to move the rad, cold weather blind, and AC Condensor back towards the motor.

I had the rad out for an unrelated issue and decided to move everything back before the turbo was mounted.

I took measurements, then cut the rad support vertical so I could use the brackets and bolt holes, just space them back 2.5"

 

[slowandsteady BJ]

I had to cut back the fan shroud as well. (2.5")

I bought an intercooler that was 2.5" deep X 9" all and 33" wide. Nothing fancy just an Ebay cheapo but Im impressed with the quality.

Mounted the intercooler with rubber dampers to help isolate vibrations. I used 1x3x1/8 aluminum to hang the intercooler and bolted the aluminum support brackets to the rad support.

 

[slowandsteady BJ]

So the fun part begins,

I used a 2 Stainless steel "Jbends", 2.5" mandrel bent tubing and cut, fit and re cut and re measured until I had the tubing in good shape.

I ran the tubes through a 3" hole in the fire wall (drilled with a 3" hole saw) and under the battery trays. Once I had the piping going where it was supposed too, I removed everything, purged the pipe and welded it up using 308L.

After welding I cleaned the inside of the pipes to clinical standards and installed them roughly.

I had to index the turbo 180 degrees and move the wastegate accuator. The wastegate accuator, turbo drain and the clamp on the compressor nozzle all wanted to be in the same spot so fabricating a new accuator rod was a must. I used some 5/16 stainless round rod I had laying around and made a Z formation and welded the ends back on. Im not too happy with but it'll have to do for now and it works fine.

 

[slowandsteady BJ]

I wanted to move the wastegate accuator port from the compressor nozzle to as close to the intake as possible.... so I did.

Tigged in a small plate for added "meat" and tapped it with a 1/8NPT and installed old fitting in the new location and plugged the old hole. I dont enjoy "plugging old holes" but sometimes it has to be done. yuk yuk.

 

[slowandsteady BJ]

Once evrything fit nicely it was time to tighten everything up and re install the batteries, trays, grille etc.

I used stainless T-bolt clamps, 2.5" vibrant couplings, reducers and flex couplings. They were a bit pricey but easy to get and they come in black. Not that bright red, yellow and blue isn't cool but boring black suites me fine.

Everything fits great and Ive driven it enough to know it works. I have to tow a trailer to Langley with a motor bike in it so ill get a good idea how well it works tomorrow.

I left my fuel at the existing setting so as to get an accurate idea of the drop in EGT.

 

[VTCDN]

Nice work , and good thinking on the Intercooler recess.
Myself I would make sure I bond(electrically join & ground) all the air pipes and the engine , turbo ,intercooler, frame,block and pipe to pipe..

I use bonding braid you can see on highly electrical euro cars from the engine to the body work , hood to body. Normally tin coated copper fine strand wire , kinda like slot cars brushes .
I bond all metals with the least dissimilar electrolysis wire, tin coated copper to aluminum is good , stainless to alum is the best , copper to alum is poor.

Just since your doing such a fine job , you might of over looked electrolysis that happens.

VT

 

[doug720]

You and I came to a similar design to mount mount our inter-coolers. I made the spacer out of steel I had bent up. Mine is for the Isuzu 4BD2tc I put in my 60.

Looks great.

Doug

 

[slowandsteady BJ]

Nice work , and good thinking on the Intercooler recess.
Myself I would make sure I bond(electrically join & ground) all the air pipes and the engine , turbo ,intercooler, frame,block and pipe to pipe..

I use bonding braid you can see on highly electrical euro cars from the engine to the body work , hood to body. Normally tin coated copper fine strand wire , kinda like slot cars brushes .
I bond all metals with the least dissimilar electrolysis wire, tin coated copper to aluminum is good , stainless to alum is the best , copper to alum is poor.

Just since your doing such a fine job , you might of over looked electrolysis that happens.

VT

Really? I need to worry about that? I never even thought of it. Do factory intercooled trucks have these strap things? I cant recall ever seeing it.

You and I came to a similar design to mount mount our inter-coolers. I made the spacer out of steel I had bent up. Mine is for the Isuzu 4BD2tc I put in my 60.

Looks great.

Doug

Likewise. Your swap is S*XY!

 

[slowandsteady BJ]

Report...

Great upgrade. I pulled a trailer with a street bike in it (1000lbs total aprox) with no problem.

I could reach 1200 on the pyro if I didnt pay attention on the long hills before the intercooler (no trailer)

Now, even driving like an idiot, early shifting, late shifting, pedal to the floor I cant raise more than 1000 and thats with the trailer.

The egt's drop faster when idiling to cool turbo before shutdown. Pyro hangs at 700- 750 while cruising along at 100kph at 2100rpm (with trailer)

The turbo spools exactly the same as before. No more lag than before although it sounds a bit different (better in fact)

All in all this was a fun, fairly easy, and very usefull upgrade!

 

[VTCDN]

I would bond , Being that the picture above is taken 25 feet above Salt level , and the salt in the air around Victoria is always corroding things. You have to check how the Factory trucks and cars mount there heat exchangers , some mount all together , supply plastic / rubber to all , and the bonding of the units could just be a pair of washers that are joined with a strap , but if you study it the way of trying to see of how to dissipate static electrical charge , you'll see of some method of make sure that all is grounded or runs a common bond.

I heard on north american manufacture car or truck that the heater core or evaporator would crap if the bonding wasn't reinstalled , I know on a few euros , Evaps were coated and added bonds on many wet salt coasts . Some just use a strap between the hose clamps and the strap is hidden under the flex tube, seen that also.

If you look on new factory stuff , there's always something or it's hard bolted like the AC condenser is on the 60.

Easy to check with a DVM , between the intercooler and a good ground , then drive and see. You're looking for mv scale

VT

 

[cody c]

Looks good, you could probably turn the fuel up a bit as your temps are now pretty low.

I did a top mount on my 60 and had similar results, though it hasnt been running in over a year.

Maybe Ill do a top mount on my 80 one day too.

 

[Sykoslug]

I know this is an older thread, but I just did a similar install on my Fj- w/ 3B turbo'd and I have run into a few problems that I hope I can get some clarity on.

-PROBLEM:I used get boost to about 15psi MAX under acceleration on the flat and between 5-7 cruising around, now I can barely get 5 psi full throttle and power is obviously down.

-I decided to make this upgrade just after some engine work. I was getting my head gasket replaced (the one that blew was the wrong/old style fiber gasket w/steel rings; now replaced w/ MLS gasket), having a rocker arm replaced, new valve seals, pre-cups, and refurbed the fuel injectors. All of that work was completed, but the original turbo minus intercooler wasn't test-driven. Also, prior to identifying that I had a blown head gasket I adjusted the timing to stock match marks from being slightly retarded ...thinking I had a fuel issue - ( having it retarded: yielded significant gains in low end torque, increased boost, tolerable EGT's (max 1100), and great driveability as noted above where I stated the problem)

Here's what I have done to eliminate variables.

1) I have checked for boost leaks and found none. The system holds pressure, no leaks in the plumbing.
2) Disconnected wastegate to rule out for early/excessive dumping - still no boost over 5 psi
3) Increased fuel/decreased fuel - no impact on boost.

What I know about adding plumbing and intercooler:
1) May loose 1-2 PSI because of additional volume w/intercooler and plumbing.
2) Decreased air intake temps and EGT's
3) Added power because of #2 (increased air density)

***this is why I'm puzzled - too much of #1 and none of #2 and 3.***

Next steps I have considered to get back lost power:
1)Retard timing to where it was pre-engine work.
2) Eliminate intercooler and re-set to pre-engine work turbo configuration
3) Drive Landcruiser over cliff - one last burst of speed

I hope someone with more knowledge can offer ideas, consolation, or anything at all to help get the ol cruiser cruising again.

Links to pictures:
Intercooler Pic
Plumbing Drivers Side
Plumbing Passenger Side