To keep from hijacking Garett's thread anymore....
Well the way the EGR works is it uses a temp sensor to dump exhaust back into the intake. If the temp goes up, it dumps more in there. If it does down, it dumps less. So yes, it does have a cooling effect of sorts, but that's a side effect rather than the primary purpose of it.
As RavenTai posted, once you're above a certain temp the nitrogen can combine to form nX. The EGR's job is to dump 'inert' gas into your intake to keep the temps below that point.
The problem is that the EGR (shouldn't) work at all during idle or at WOT. But if your EGR is busted, then you can still be dumping exhaust into your intake when you shouldn't (a possible cause of low idle.....Tyler remind me that we need to do the FSM test on your EGR).
On the flip side people have driven thousands of miles with a plugged/non-functioning EGR system, where the EGR can't dump any exhaust into the system. No codes (because their temps are within "normal" range), and no change in power or performance. But how are you going to notice a change in power or performance when the EGR only operates at cruising speed (when you're only at maybe 30-40% throttle)?
Unlike earlier vehicles the EGR doesn't run all the time, so while older vehicles the EGR would dump exhaust at WOT, that doesn't happen on an 80. So the inert gas (exhaust) would rob you of power because it'd still kick in at WOT.
There's no performance reasons to remove the EGR, and it's highly doubtful you'll see much (if any) mileage increase.
The only two valid reasons for removing the EGR are:
The EGR is unlikely to effect the overall engine temp by much (and indeed I've read several posts suggesting that the 1FZ actually runs slightly too cool), but it will effect all that hot exhaust gas going into cylinder 6. You might be increasing overall engine temps slightly, but you will be decreasing the temps in cylinder 6 significantly.
Personally, my theory is that if there's less carbon in my intake then my engine is going to run cleaner for longer, because that carbon won't be chewing up my internals and causing leaks or poor performance. So it's a long term win (and also happens to be a pocketbook win if you get out of having to do a HG job!).
been reading up on the thread for the EGR delete/fooler/emulator; there is a valid point to the EGR system in that with cooler exhaust temps more advanced timing is used=better power and economy. BUT, is that true for non boosted engines? I have to imagine with the ethenol blendwe run now temps may be cooler already? also, it just makes no sense to mix more inert gasses in one cylinder to cool the total exhaust flow. (I think that is how it works) I'm still reading up on that whole system and it's related threads, tempted to do the mod if only to keep my HG worries at bay.
Well the way the EGR works is it uses a temp sensor to dump exhaust back into the intake. If the temp goes up, it dumps more in there. If it does down, it dumps less. So yes, it does have a cooling effect of sorts, but that's a side effect rather than the primary purpose of it.
As RavenTai posted, once you're above a certain temp the nitrogen can combine to form nX. The EGR's job is to dump 'inert' gas into your intake to keep the temps below that point.
The problem is that the EGR (shouldn't) work at all during idle or at WOT. But if your EGR is busted, then you can still be dumping exhaust into your intake when you shouldn't (a possible cause of low idle.....Tyler remind me that we need to do the FSM test on your EGR).
On the flip side people have driven thousands of miles with a plugged/non-functioning EGR system, where the EGR can't dump any exhaust into the system. No codes (because their temps are within "normal" range), and no change in power or performance. But how are you going to notice a change in power or performance when the EGR only operates at cruising speed (when you're only at maybe 30-40% throttle)?
Unlike earlier vehicles the EGR doesn't run all the time, so while older vehicles the EGR would dump exhaust at WOT, that doesn't happen on an 80. So the inert gas (exhaust) would rob you of power because it'd still kick in at WOT.
There's no performance reasons to remove the EGR, and it's highly doubtful you'll see much (if any) mileage increase.
The only two valid reasons for removing the EGR are:
- Less carbon being dumped into the intake
- Reduce temps in cylinder 6
The EGR is unlikely to effect the overall engine temp by much (and indeed I've read several posts suggesting that the 1FZ actually runs slightly too cool), but it will effect all that hot exhaust gas going into cylinder 6. You might be increasing overall engine temps slightly, but you will be decreasing the temps in cylinder 6 significantly.
Personally, my theory is that if there's less carbon in my intake then my engine is going to run cleaner for longer, because that carbon won't be chewing up my internals and causing leaks or poor performance. So it's a long term win (and also happens to be a pocketbook win if you get out of having to do a HG job!).
rig here soon.