New stereo, but with power antenna problem

[ncsumd]

New stereo, but now power antenna doesn't work

Just installed a new Kenwood stereo with the amp by-pass harness (used the two gray plugs that weren't plugged into the oem unit). All works well, but my antenna no longer raises when the radio is turned on. In fact, I can't manually raise or lower the antenna with the dash buttons either. I've read on MUD not to connect the blue power antenna wire, so I did not. Any ideas how to fix this? I've searched but found no clear answer.

1997 Land Cruiser

 

[superjuice]

Disconnect the factory amp.

 

[ncsumd]

Thanks for the response, but already did that.

 

[superjuice]

The aftermarket stereo I took out of my car had the antenna lead connected. I think you don't connect it when using the factory amp. When the stereo comes on the mast raises a few inches even if the manual up/down is set to the lowest height.

 

[ncsumd]

Thanks, Superjuice. I will try connecting it later today. I guess blue to blue, but thought I read here something about a purple..I'll just pull it back out and see what i can get into.

 

[greentruck]

Details are a bit hazy...

I installed our aftermarket head unit in place of the 1997 OEM one (which I peddled profitably on the internet.) I did NOT bypass the factory amp. I did splice the blue antenna wire on the headunit directly to power antenna wire. Antenna dash controls work.

My understanding of the whole process leads me to believe that you'll likely need to connect directly to the antenna wire, even if you bypass the amp. Otherwise, where is the signal going to come from? I'm pretty sure that the antenna is not controlled through the factory amp, but is a separate circuit that bypasses it in factory configuration, thus you need to make provision for it from the head unit whether or not you keep the factory amp.

On the "purple" wire -- that may indeed be the correct wire to attach the blue antenna wire from the head unit. I vaguely recall it this way, but can't say for sure. Seems like it is attached to the cable that runs from the head unit to the factory amp and is rather obvious. This fits with what I remember above.

 

[ncsumd]

I haven't had time to pull it yet, but hopefully will tomorrow. Now I know what to look for.

Thanks guys!

 

[Moody]

Mine has the same issue after install...I hope to get it fixed as I like to listen to the radio once a month or so...

 

[MadTripper]

Just installed a Pioneer 6200BT a few weeks ago using the amp bypass connectors. I hooked the blue wire up and have no issues. The antenna is up as long as the radio is powered on (as opposed to the stock radio where it would retract during cd or tape usage) but I can use the manual buttons to retract if need be.

Tripper

 

[asutherland]

Sorry to drag this thead up, but it fits my question.

In my 93 HDJ81 I had the stock (OEM) japanese toyota radio, and the manual up/down power antenna button. The anteanna only ever raised/lowered when I manually pressed the up/down button, never automatically with the radio power.

This hasn't changed since I replaced the OEM unit with a standard CD/MP3 player from this century. The behaviour is exactly the same. I still need to use the up/down button to control the antenna. My setup while installing the aftermarket deck was this:

-Bypassed the factory amp,
-DO or DONT hook up the antenna wire - I tried both and it didn't make a difference either way.

This is fine with me - I like the manual control of the Up/Down button. HOWEVER - my antenna, when at it's lowest position, does not pull back all the way into the fender. It sticks up about 6 inches. It did when I had the OEM unit, and it still does to this day.

Any idea on how to get it to pull ALL the way back down into the fender so only a little nub is sticking up? If I spend $40 on a replacement mast LAND CRUISER Power Antenna MAST 1990-1996 *OEM* Toyota on eBay.ca (item 370461811361 end time 30-Mar-11 10:11:16 EDT) I want to ensure it doesn't suffer the same fate as my last - death by tree. Yes, the 6 inches sticking up was enough to kill it.

 

[flem0061]

I have the same issue with the antenna not raising but I found that my tuner works well enough with the antenna retracted that I don't need it raised. I'm going with it this way until I find that I cannot get the stations I want.

 

[asutherland]

I have the same issue with the antenna not raising but I found that my tuner works well enough with the antenna retracted that I don't need it raised. I'm going with it this way until I find that I cannot get the stations I want.

How far DOWN does yours go though? All the way in, or still stick up about 6 inches? Damn brush on Vancouver Island... it's not forgiving!

 

[flem0061]

Mine is all the way down, protected nicely inside.

 

[greentruck]

The 1997 US-spec 80s ended up with antenna control like the LX450. It has memory, plus manual control buttons on the dash. Flem's set-up will be different than on the 93 HDJ.

When the tuner is activated, it causes the antenna to pop-up to at least its minimum extension, which is the 6" he described. This works fine with my aftermarket head unit, BTW.

Earlier year US-spec 80s are different and I have no idea about HDJ-81s. That's an apples to oranges comparison.

Besides a possibly different button assembly, the changes for the 97 80 included a different ECU for the antenna control. The parts are out there for what you want to do, but I'm not sure how you'd go about hacking the 1997 80/LX antenna control ECU into earlier years.

I installed a new antenna assembly on the 80 to fix it after we purchased it, before realizing that all it probably needed was the nylon drive gizmo. Still have the old 97 motor assembly, so if you figure that's part of what you need to make it work, be glad to cut a very favorable deal for it (send PM if interested).

However, is the HDJ antenna on the right side of the truck like the US-spec trucks or does it swap sides due to the steering swap for RHD? Not sure if the garnish/flange at the top that fits in the bumper just so will require just turning it around or a different P# entirely?

 

[asutherland]

Thanks Mike, but I don't think it's hardware I have to replace. I bet there's an electrical solution - make the antenna realize that my stereo is off so it lowers the full amount and tucks in. Yes, the antenna is on the left side of the vehicle on the HDJ.

 

[asutherland]

I've read on MUD that the 93-94 80 antennas don't raise or lower with the radio, that they're completely manual with the switch. That being said, it's possible my antenna just WON'T lower completely into the fender and it's lowest position is 6 inches high.

For those of you who've replaced their factory antenna with a generic short bendy rubber one, how does it attach? Does it just screw on? How do I attach it to the cable piece?

 

[asutherland]

Solved my problem. I replaced my broken mast with an OEM one off eBay (or at least a copy of OEM). Only took a few minutes, pretty easy. Cost $28 + $6 shipping.

But the really cool part is now the antenna lowers COMPLETELY into the fender when I use the Down button on my dash. Only a little nub shows. Woo hoo!~

 

[greentruck]

Hey, that's good news. Sometimes you just have to be stubborn, keep trying different solutions to fix a problem

 

[jnauck]

aftermarket head unit with factory power antenna/aftermarket speaker recommendations

For anyone out there who has the 1997 and is completely confused on how to wire the power antenna and still retain control through the manual up/down switches, after tinkering with it off an on for a week or so, I finally figured it out. My apologies is this has already been addressed, but I wanted to bring it up for those who are having trouble. I just installed a Pioneer App Radio. After reading with wiring diagram and speaking to Pioneer, I realized that the metra Toyota wiring harness was bypassing the factory amps. Everybody says to do this, so just disconnect it behind the glove box-easy. The blue wire from the metra connects to the 12v + on the cigarette lighter. Antenna goes up and down when the car starts/shuts off and you've got control of the manual button. I would like to use some profanity to say how pleased I am with this result, but for the sake of this site, just use your imagination. If you have an iphone and want the best quality sound as well as great apps for traffic and a very good tuner with plenty of presets, get the App Radio. It's clean looking (just a screen and three buttons) and looks great installed. I got mine for 200 bucks since the App Radio II is coming out. It basically is exactly the same but features a 7" screen instead of a 6" and works with android phones. They are out in a week or two and will cost $600. The built in amp is fantastic for the mids and highs even if you're still running factory speakers but in that case I'd just use the factory amp.

For those who are interested, this is what I replaced for the factory speakers.

Pioneer TS-G1644R 6 1/2" Coaxials in front doors. Shallow depth allows installation behind factory grilles.
Pioneer TS-G1044R 4 1/2" Coaxials in front (dash) and rear doors. I think I put 100 hz bass blockers on the speakers in the dash because the little 2" factory speakers had them. Otherwise, it will try to drive full range sound through them. Rear speakers don't need it as I think the factory amp may be less powerful for those. Just like on the JBL speakers in 100 series, these are almost exclusively for "rear fill".
If you remove Pioneer's metal tabs on the speakers and modify the little baskets from the factory speakers, installation in the rear doors is a snap.
Don't mess with the little 2" tweeter/mids in the back deck. It's a b**&h to take them out and I have never found anything to fit behind the factory covers. I put a JL 10" sub in the back in a basic small box that can be removed when I need to haul stuff.
If you use a line level converter off the factory amp you can run an aftermarket sub and amp with ease.
I bought a 6 1/2" JL sub for the factory location but I got an 8ohm instead of a 4 ohm (oops). It is possible to get an appropriate amount of bass out of it but you will have to build an enclosure beneath the panel. The factory sub only utilizes the air space beneath the panel (****). With the new head unit, I decided to run RCA/power/ground to the rear as opposed to off the factory sub amp which is about the size of a big stick of butter.
Finally, I dynamatted the livin' S&^t out of mine. Every door, the dash, the pillars, even the console. ****, it really makes a difference! I don't mind the added weight since the fuel economy can't get much worse. Good luck to anyone undertaking this project and send me an email with any other questions.

 

[firewalker]

I'd like to bring this thread back for another run. I've got a 96 and for the first time ever decided I needed a factory adjustable antenna. I bought one here on mud and don't know what year it's from. Anyway, it's on and working with my manual dash switch. However, the antenna assembly has two pig tails. My harness seems to only have the hookup for one. Is the unit I bought from a 97? From reading post 14 it would seem so. I had another 96 and it had two connections iirc. But, i just stuck a mast on thatt vehicle. Anyway, to make it work from power on/off like our 100?

I love the power antenna adjustment for signal strength and switching between bands. Never found a mast that was the perfect length for all stations am/ fm.