I have gas......but how much?

[cruiserdan]

I completed my subtank installation today by adding a switch to toggle between the main and subtank senders. I made the switch out of a rear heater switch. It was not quite configured as I needed it so....I REWIRED IT...!

 

[Landpimp]

what 40+ gallons or something?

stock gauge can't be made to read both?

just run off one and leave the other for reserve?

I dunno much cept................

 

[cruiserdan]

It is mounted to the left of the steering wheel and I moved the alarm status monitor at the same time. It is back-lit and the M and S glow when selected.

 

[cruiserdan]

stock gauge can't be made to read both?

I dunno much cept................

That's what I just did....

 

[bjowett]

Sweet mod... it's all in the details!

 

[4x4CPOSEADOG]

That is a sweeeeet installation dan!

 

[RavenTai]

Nice

What did you use to make the placards that light passes through? Need some for my rear heat switch. If anybody else every drives my 80 (hopefully not) I could see them fumbling with my battery setup trying to get heat

 

[Landpimp]

thought you ment to switch the tanks.......I missed the sender part

That's what I just did....

 

[cruiserdan]

Nice

What did you use to make the placards that light passes through? Need some for my rear heat switch. If anybody else every drives my 80 (hopefully not) I could see them fumbling with my battery setup trying to get heat

I made them on my computer using Word and doing a table. I shaded it black to get white letters on a black background then I printed them off on mailing label stock. I covered them with 3M Scotchcal paint protection film, the stuff used for anti-chip protection on leading edge painted surfaces such as the front of the rear flare.
The font is Arial black and the size is 8 for the center and 12 for the tank letters. The diodes that light the low/high postions get their ground fom one of the switched legs. That would not work in this case as I was switching a variable ground (senders). I had to break into the switch and interrupt the bridge and then add an additional wire for a continous ground to the input side of the resistor in the diode circuit. I used a 9 pin Molex connector to connect the switch to the harness.

 

[Junk]

So all we get to hear about the tank install is how you weenied up a switch?

 

[IdahoDoug]

Nice little mod, and way to stick to OEM. No NAPA switches on YOUR rig, eh? I even agree with the positioning of the S at the top, which follows convention that flipping something up activates that feature. How did the rest of the install go?

DougM

 

[cruiserdan]

Junk,

Most all of what I could say or picture has already been well documented by George in his write-up. The adendems would be dealing with the later neck and getting both tanks to selectively read on the main gauge. I covered the neck modifications in the subtank thread and the gauge switch here.

Doug,

The install went well once I had all the stray bits and pieces lined up. There is a whole lot more to this than just finding a tank.

You need:
A real 80 tank, not a 105, complete with pickup tube and a SENDER....
The correct straps.
A complete dual neck, with pull knob.
A subtank switch.
A conroller (I used George's).
Additional vent hoses.
2 main fuel hoses.
multiple hose clamps (I used OEM clamps on the inlet hoses, you would not believe how much they cost).
A suitable transfer pump and a way to mount it.
A bunch of wire in at least 4 or 5 colors to keep it sorted out.
2 sets of 9 pin Molex connectors.
Convoluted tubing.
Zip ties.
OEM connector bodies and repair splices to connect to the subtank switch and to tap into the unused radio circuit for power and illumination.
A project box to put the controller in.
Wire splices and shrink tube.
P clamps.
Some 5/16 fuel hose.
An inline filter from the sub (I used an FJ60 fuel filter, 23300-38010).
Nutserts for the tank straps.
And some other bits I can't think of right now.
I had the tank in and out at least a dozen times during the fitting process and I have well north of 20 hours in it with all the fiddling.

The tank, straps and neck, with shipping, was 410 bucks and I have another 300+ in all the fluff around it. Plus my time of course.

D-

 

[Cruisin'Carolina]

So all we get to hear about the tank install is how you weenied up a switch?

ROTLFLMAO!!! I was waiting for that one, or something like why doesn't gauge automatically switch when you hit the tank switch.......

Wow! I and my cruiser or so not worthy.... What are those other switches on the console?

 

[cruiserdan]

The front one on the center console is the status monitor for the alarm. That got moved there to make room for the gauge switch. The rear one on the center console is the interior winch cable in and out. The one to the right of the rear heater switch "arms" the cable control switch to make it "hot". There is also a remote winch hook-up under the hood. The "SUB" switch to the left of the rear heater switch controls the fuel transfer pump.

 

[e9999]

oooolala!
Me bow to big Chief NoFear!
Me amazed.
Me a worm!

 

[MTNRAT]

We're not worthy!
Cheers,
Sean

 

[semlin]

very nice. now I see how that switch could be my 2 way foglight switch in the future.

So next stop is to set the trip meter to zero and see how far you can go without visiting a pump

Also, am I right that you manually transfer the gas from the sub tank to the main? If so, how do you ensure the pump does not run dry.

 

[Rich]

Dan, good job on the install.

For future reference, one could avoid the need to modify the switch by using a pair of miniature relays to handle the fuel tank level sender switching.

This thought first occurred to me when reading Raven's dual battery post. One more relay in his design would have also eliminated the need for him to mod the switch.

In each example the switch would be wired to switch the ground side of the relay coils.

 

[mot]

Nicely done, Dan.

 

[cruiserdan]

Dan, good job on the install.

For future reference, one could avoid the need to modify the switch by using a pair of miniature relays to handle the fuel tank level sender switching.

This thought first occurred to me when reading Raven's dual battery post. One more relay in his design would have also eliminated the need for him to mod the switch.

In each example the switch would be wired to switch the ground side of the relay coils.

Agreed but I did not want more relays, I already have a dash-full. It really wasn't that tough to break into the switch anyway. I was going to use relays if the switch had fought me too hard.

Also, am I right that you manually transfer the gas from the sub tank to the main? If so, how do you ensure the pump does not run dry.

The subtank sender has a level switch that sends a signal to the controller telling it that the tank is empty. The controller then releases the latch and shuts the pump off.