My '97 LX 450 Buildup...Comments/Suggestions Welcome! (1 Viewer)

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Hey guys,

I used to wheel 3rd gen 4runners pretty hard back in the day, but I've been out of the scene for a while racing and building UTV's.

IMG_6406.JPG


But, needless to say I'm ready to build something new again, so today I bought a '97 LX 450 to begin the buildup. Being new to 80's, the main reason I selected this vehicle is because it had the solid axles and lockers from the factory, but from here, it's a question on where to start.

So, I'd really like to run 37's on this vehicle but keep it as low as possible too.

Here are some items I need ideas on:

1) What 37's to run in the East TN/Western NC area?
2) What wheels/backspacing/width to run to minimize fender trimming?
3) How much fender trimming needed to stay low and clear the 37's?
4) How much lift and what lift would be best for excellent articulation without limiting up travel, by lowering bumpstops, etc?
5) Should I consider an exo-cage, and if so, are they all custom ones out there, I'd imagine?
6) Bumpers: I made my rear on my 3rd gen, because I wanted more departure angle than what was available at the time. What do folks recommend for the highest clearance front and rear bumpers?
7) Sliders: I made my own sliders, but I'm open to a well designed/strong slider, as well.
8) Skid Plates: Do folks do drivetrain lifts on these or mainly stay to conventional lifts? Either way, who makes the best and most coverage skid plates around?
9) Brakes: What's the best upgrade available for braking on these?
10) Gears: 4.56 or 5.29's? Where from? Local place in Boone, NC possibly for install?
11) Driveshafts? Need to get heavier duty stuff, or stick with stock?
12) Electrical: What hacks and electrical stuff are folks doing on these?
13) Hi-Steer? Who makes the best kit out there for the money? Hydro-steer or is the stock system capable of turning the 37's?
14) Axles? Capable of running 37's with no problem or do I need to upgrade axles and birfields? If so, where from?
15) What am I missing? Supercharger?

Guys, really appreciate the help on this. I used to wheel the 3rd gen's about as hard as you could for an IFS, and I'm looking to take it up a notch with the 80, but keep it as something I can drive on the road too. Any help/guidance to get me started would be greatly appreciated.

Also, when's the next wheeling event near NC?

Chris
 
Last edited:
hey guys,

i used to wheel 3rd gen 4runners pretty hard back in the day, but i've been out of the scene for a while racing and building utv's.



But, needless to say i'm ready to build something new again, so today i bought a '97 lx 450 to begin the buildup. Being new to 80's, the main reason i selected this vehicle is because it had the solid axles and lockers from the factory, but from here, it's a question on where to start.

So, i'd really like to run 37's on this vehicle but keep it as low as possible too.

Here are some items i need ideas on:

1) what 37's to run in the east tn/western nc area?
iroks
2) what wheels/backspacing/width to run to minimize fender trimming?
?
3) how much fender trimming needed to stay low and clear the 37's?
depends on how low you want to be. Nay runs 37s with only 3 1/2 lift.
4) how much lift and what lift would be best for excellent articulation without limiting up travel, by lowering bumpstops, etc?
you might have well asked which is better chevrolet or ford. You will get a ton of answers on this one. I run ome comp springs and i am happy thus far.
5) should i consider an exo-cage, and if so, are they all custom ones out there, i'd imagine?
i was always under the impression that having an exo when wheeling in trees is more of a hinderance than a help, easy to get limbs and stuff stuck between it and the body. Wheeling on the west coast it would probably be beneficial. Just my .02$ though.
6) bumpers: I made my rear on my 3rd gen, because i wanted more departure angle than what was available at the time. What do folks recommend for the highest clearance front and rear bumpers?
high clearance front either slee, metal tech, or custom. High clearance rear is either 4x4labs or custom. I went custom.
7) sliders: I made my own sliders, but i'm open to a well designed/strong slider, as well.
i went custom due to the cost of everyone elses. If you are a competant welder yo should be able to build some for less that 200$.
8) skid plates: Do folks do drivetrain lifts on these or mainly stay to conventional lifts? Either way, who makes the best and most coverage skid plates around?
i haven't bought one yet but when i do it will definately be ipor's skidplate.
9) brakes: What's the best upgrade available for braking on these?
100 series brake pads i would imagine.
10) gears: 4.56 or 5.29's? Where from? Local place in boone, nc possibly for install?
with 37's? 5.29s.
11) driveshafts? Need to get heavier duty stuff, or stick with stock?
rear will probably be fine, will most likely need a dc front. Slee has one for 415$ or you can source a rear tacoma shaft and have it retubed.
12) electrical: What hacks and electrical stuff are folks doing on these?
everything from coolant temp guage mods, to center diff locks, and 7 pin mods. Read the faq. Lots of you questions can be answered there.
13) hi-steer? Who makes the best kit out there for the money? Hydro-steer or is the stock system capable of turning the 37's?
proably no need for high steer, and the stock system can handle them if you aren't too hard on it.
14) axles? Capable of running 37's with no problem or do i need to upgrade axles and birfields? If so, where from?
i personally wouldn't run 37's without longfields, but several people wheel their trucks pretty hard with oe birfs.
15) what am i missing? Supercharger?
supercharger, turbo, winch...




guys, really appreciate the help on this. I used to wheel the 3rd gen's about as hard as you could for an ifs, and i'm looking to take it up a notch with the 80, but keep it as something i can drive on the road too. Any help/guidance to get me started would be greatly appreciated.

Also, when's the next wheeling event near nc?

Chris

hth, ymmv

d
 
Hey guys,

I used to wheel 3rd gen 4runners pretty hard back in the day, but I've been out of the scene for a while racing and building UTV's.

IMG_6406.JPG


But, needless to say I'm ready to build something new again, so today I bought a '97 LX 450 to begin the buildup. Being new to 80's, the main reason I selected this vehicle is because it had the solid axles and lockers from the factory, but from here, it's a question on where to start.

So, I'd really like to run 37's on this vehicle but keep it as low as possible too.

Here are some items I need ideas on:

1) What 37's to run in the East TN/Western NC area?
2) What wheels/backspacing/width to run to minimize fender trimming?
3) How much fender trimming needed to stay low and clear the 37's?
4) How much lift and what lift would be best for excellent articulation without limiting up travel, by lowering bumpstops, etc?
5) Should I consider an exo-cage, and if so, are they all custom ones out there, I'd imagine?
6) Bumpers: I made my rear on my 3rd gen, because I wanted more departure angle than what was available at the time. What do folks recommend for the highest clearance front and rear bumpers?
7) Sliders: I made my own sliders, but I'm open to a well designed/strong slider, as well.
8) Skid Plates: Do folks do drivetrain lifts on these or mainly stay to conventional lifts? Either way, who makes the best and most coverage skid plates around?
9) Brakes: What's the best upgrade available for braking on these?
10) Gears: 4.56 or 5.29's? Where from? Local place in Boone, NC possibly for install?
11) Driveshafts? Need to get heavier duty stuff, or stick with stock?
12) Electrical: What hacks and electrical stuff are folks doing on these?
13) Hi-Steer? Who makes the best kit out there for the money? Hydro-steer or is the stock system capable of turning the 37's?
14) Axles? Capable of running 37's with no problem or do I need to upgrade axles and birfields? If so, where from?
15) What am I missing? Supercharger?

Guys, really appreciate the help on this. I used to wheel the 3rd gen's about as hard as you could for an IFS, and I'm looking to take it up a notch with the 80, but keep it as something I can drive on the road too. Any help/guidance to get me started would be greatly appreciated.

Also, when's the next wheeling event near NC?

Chris

why bother building when you can get one with all the stuff your looking for.

https://forum.ih8mud.com/vehicles-t...606-trade-93-80-i-cant-belive-im-selling.html

just down the path and non of the head aches. Just my .02 Good luck.
 
Thanks for the help guys...I'm really upset I just found this built one though. I hate when this happens...thanks for making me feel like a dumbass...lol. :)

Chris
 
ha I did just the opposite thing. I waited to long during the gas hike and saw 5 or 6 completely built the way I wanted before I made up my mind. Then when i was ready all the built cruisers were sold and I buoght mine stock locally/ Love my LX however I could have saved alot of $$$ buying one already built.

Good luck.
 
Yeah, didn't see any, but it's okay...I might be able to sell mine real quick. :)

Chris
 
Welcome to ih8mud. I'm sure you made the right vehicle choice. Only a matter of what you need to fix or add...just a few $ +/- so no need to sell what you've bought unless you have a serious issue.

Start with the suspension. Nothing else will make as much of an impact in my opinion. I switched to OME but others may have better advice when it comes to the type of performance you are looking for.
 
Yeah, there's nothing wrong with it...it's just stock! :)

Chris
 
When I was searching for my 80 I almost bought a fully built 95, however im glad I didnt. I built mine from stock and I learned a hell of alot by doing so. Theres a certain feeling you get when looking at your rig if you know that you did it yourself. Just an opinion though.
Where are the pics of your new 80?
 
When I was searching for my 80 I almost bought a fully built 95, however im glad I didnt. I built mine from stock and I learned a hell of alot by doing so. Theres a certain feeling you get when looking at your rig if you know that you did it yourself. Just an opinion though.
Where are the pics of your new 80?

Good point.

I'm gonna get REAL familiar with my new 95 in a few months. gonna take it down to the cowl inside and out.

And another thing. When someone spends a bunch on modding up a truck, they usually wheel them. And of course, that stresses things a bit. I'm into the expedition style rather than the rockcrawling style, and I'm looking for decent capability as well as extreme reliability. So if the rig's been wheeled a lot, I'm not gonna be wanting it too bad.

And if you're a welder you build your own armor cheaply, and spend some money on suspension mods and not be in the truck too deep.
 
When I was searching for my 80 I almost bought a fully built 95, however im glad I didnt. I built mine from stock and I learned a hell of alot by doing so. Theres a certain feeling you get when looking at your rig if you know that you did it yourself. Just an opinion though.
Where are the pics of your new 80?
I definitely agree, and since I've never owned an 80, I'd definitely learn a lot by doing so, I'm sure. I fabbed most everything on my 3rd gen 4runner, and I loved it. I don't have any pics of it yet...it's still sitting at the guys shop I bought it from, because it's a funny story. He ended up trading with me for my wife's 2004 Rav4. I've never done that one before with a personal sale...So, as soon as my wife's title arrives, I'll go swap vehicles with him.

Chris
 
Good point.

I'm gonna get REAL familiar with my new 95 in a few months. gonna take it down to the cowl inside and out.

And another thing. When someone spends a bunch on modding up a truck, they usually wheel them. And of course, that stresses things a bit. I'm into the expedition style rather than the rockcrawling style, and I'm looking for decent capability as well as extreme reliability. So if the rig's been wheeled a lot, I'm not gonna be wanting it too bad.

And if you're a welder you build your own armor cheaply, and spend some money on suspension mods and not be in the truck too deep.
Good points...just stinks when you can get a fully built one for the same basic amount of money you just paid for a stock one...lol. No worries...I put mine up for sale on here, so we'll see if it sells. And, if it does, I'll buy the other one. If not, I'll just build mine up as originally planned.

As far as my first mods, I'd really like to here from folks that have done a body lift and drivetrain lift on an 80. I'm seriously considering doing this on mine to have a nice and flat undercarriage. I'm not even sure how low the crossmembers hang down, but I know 3" underneath is equivalent to 6" of tire size, which for most vehicles isn't possible. Anybody on here know anyone that's does this successfully on one of these?

Chris
 
Well, today I tackled some huge tasks on the Lexus! :) The CDL switch, 7-pin mod, removed the rear seats and seat belts and the running boards. Yippee! What a relief to have these mods done...lol.

Chris
 
Sounds good.

Now stop messing with all of these other issues and get those 37's on a good 3.5" lift :D

I've built my rig spec-wise to do what you are looking for. Now your wheeling is very different than mine - I am on stock axles and have no plans to change that, but unless I am on a snow run I am usually wheeling with a lot of traction, and therefore not a lot of throttle, so you may really push your axle strength limits, not that I don't push mine from time to time.

But the bottom line is this:

You can easily fit 37's on a basic suspension lift, but will need to reduce backspace or you will rub too much on the inner wheel well.

How you set shock travel will dictate how your tires are going to stuff once you have adjusted backspacing. I have retained a 10" travel system to keep it as well balanced as possible front and rear. This has the added benefit of reducing excessive angle into the wheel well at full articulation while still spacing down travel for the bigger tires.

Within the lift, I have corrected for caster and added a front DC shaft and relocated the rear brakeline t-mount down a couple of inches. Adjustable panhards and that's it except that I lengthened and sleeved my LCA's to correct rear pinion with the additional result that my big 37's (37.3") won't rub the front of the rear wheel well on stock rims with 1" wheel spacers.

Other than that I have sliders and very high clearance tube bumpers front and rear to keep weight down and max approach/departure angle on the lower lift (my approach angle will be better than a 6" lift running an ARB). My rear quarter are trimmed, which also helps the 37's stuff clean.

And 5.29's of course. Well, a little bit of Durabak, too. Get a dent, pop it out, done.

You'll be shocked how easy it is to make 37's work and how nicely the rig still drives on the highway - keep us posted on your progress.
 
Nay, your bumpers are close to what I'm wanting, for sure. That's great to hear you're stuffing 37's with the stock wheels and 1" wheel spacers. I was wondering that. Did you lower your bumpstops and if so how much? I just got a Slee 6" lift off here used, so I'm planning a detailed writeup with lots of video for those wondering about it.

Chris
 
Nay, your bumpers are close to what I'm wanting, for sure. That's great to hear you're stuffing 37's with the stock wheels and 1" wheel spacers. I was wondering that. Did you lower your bumpstops and if so how much? I just got a Slee 6" lift off here used, so I'm planning a detailed writeup with lots of video for those wondering about it.

Chris

My rear stops are dropped 2.5". My fronts are dropped 2", but I ran the 37's without any drops for awhile and installed the front stops because I had them.

The 6" lift will be interesting, because if you leave it entirely alone most of the travel is up due to the extension of the L shocks at the much taller static ride height, and having most of your travel up is exactly what you don't want in fitting large tires. You may find it is actually harder to fit the 37's on the taller lift with the up travel bias - a number of people complain about 35's rubbing on the 6" lift, and it is simple to keep 35's from rubbing on a 2.5" lift.

Personally, I would take a hard look at balancing your up and down travel 50/50 with something like Fox 2.0's or Bilstein 7100's using pin to eye mount adapters, sticking with the 10" travel version unless you have a good feel for how going to 12" shocks will affect spring travel (potentially a decent amount of the travel may be essentially unsprung as the coil will be consistently off the tower). This should make 37's extremely simple at that lift height (I'd be working on 39's for that much lift, personally, because 37's fit so much lower).

This is what a 10" travel shock on 37's looks like at full articulation, and also how 37" trxus are stuffing with the 1" wheel spacers and 3/8" longer LCA's. You can see I ignored the "measure twice, cut once rule" because I was heading to Moab and wanted to ensure I had enough clearance to the rear without a chance to really flex it up.
37" Trxus Full Stuff Rear View.jpg
37" Tire Full Stuff.jpg
37" Trxus Close Clearance Front.jpg
 
Even though I am driving like a pansy because I have :princess: plus my four kids and one of their friends along, this vid will give you a good feel for what I mean by "37's fit".

In the middle of the vid you'll see the passenger rear drop and the rig level out, at which point you have a great deal of the weight on the driver's side rear with about as much flex up front and you can get with stock arms. I get zero rubbing throughout this line.

The pic below shows the position from the side before the passenger side drops. I got a bit higher than usual and wasn't real comfortable with the line, but it did make for a good pose, despite that fact I am sure people are getting sick of me posting this stuff :D


Old Chinamans Gulch - The Rock Pile 11-22-09 on Vimeo
IMG_4174.JPG
 

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