Another Brake upgrade (1 Viewer)

[Beto]

Started up the brake upgrade by installing the 100 series pads on the 80, fit like an oj glove, nice and snug, had to remove one of the shims on the inner pads. I have a leaky MC so that is next on the list. The booster is gonna be replaced as well.
I was doing a little leg work and it looks (physically) that the 93 and up booster is larger than the 92, has anyone ever tried it on a 91/92 year?
As for the MC, I looked for bigger MC to go with but really diddn't find much as for going with a different year.

As for symptoms: spongy brakes, hence the leaking MC, the Booster has a huge dent in the front of it, so it just simply needs to go. After the booster and MC swap I will be looking into a FF rear end with disc, I want to get the brakes nice and tight before the summer. I have tons of towing to do with the old tent trailer.

Any suggestions would be appreciated, oh yea, everything is stock as far as height and tire size. for now

 

[Beto]

So I've been gone for a couple of weeks and haven't had a chance to post what I would consider a pretty good upgrade. So here it is:
I looked into upgrading my brake booster since it had a massive dent in it and since the M/C was leaking I thought it would be a good time. I did research here and found a couple of threads on boosters none been to significant to the upgrade I was looking for. When I had my 69 Chevy I added a 3/4 ton booster on a 1/2 ton truck and man what a difference, so I thought maybe it would be the same. The only problem is the next biggest booster I could find would be an ABS booster from a mid 90's 4runner. The booster is bigger which in turn should give you a little more umfff. So I hit a local dismantler and long behold a pretty new m/c and ABS booster were waiting for me. 50 bucks, I think was worth the experiament. I can always remove the booster and go back to a stock one. (by the way the ABS booster is a $400 booster on ebay, just because its ABS).

So here it is:
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/jagpics/4346227849/" title="DSC03117 (Large) by Bugin7, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2704/4346227849_def91eee96.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="DSC03117 (Large)" /></a>

Here is my booster dent:
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/jagpics/4346228449/" title="DSC03116 (Large) by Bugin7, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2789/4346228449_27a41f0244.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="DSC03116 (Large)" /></a>

Here is the pull:
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/jagpics/4346975770/" title="DSC03114 (Large) by Bugin7, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4052/4346975770_b302ca209d.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="DSC03114 (Large)" /></a>

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/jagpics/4346973044/" title="DSC03112 (Large) by Bugin7, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4036/4346973044_70de848c05.jpg" width="375" height="500" alt="DSC03112 (Large)" /></a>

Ok so some dilema, the stock booster has the check valve integrated in the booster and the new one has to be run inline, so I grabbed that while I was at it.

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/jagpics/4346973890/" title="DSC03120 (Large) by Bugin7, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2704/4346973890_f9afa5f93e.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="DSC03120 (Large)" /></a>

fj80 booster:
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/jagpics/4346228741/" title="DSC03119 (Large) by Bugin7, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2771/4346228741_77b0ee2cce.jpg" width="375" height="500" alt="DSC03119 (Large)" /></a>

4runner booster:
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/jagpics/4346228587/" title="DSC03118 (Large) by Bugin7, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2722/4346228587_3693552474.jpg" width="375" height="500" alt="DSC03118 (Large)" /></a>

Not a big deal just cut the line to the manifold and run it inline:
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/jagpics/4346974846/" title="DSC03128 (Large) by Bugin7, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2722/4346974846_6a249b48f8.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="DSC03128 (Large)" /></a>

Another dilema, the 4runner booster bolts right up but is actually ment to be bolted upside down in comparison to the vacuum line, when turn right side up there is a slight difference so to keep things uniform I decided to notch the firewall and brake pedal assembly:
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/jagpics/4346974412/" title="DSC03123 (Large) by Bugin7, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4047/4346974412_8980e59936.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="DSC03123 (Large)" /></a>

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/jagpics/4346229521/" title="DSC03125 (Large) by Bugin7, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2749/4346229521_829b37d4f5.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="DSC03125 (Large)" /></a>

So I decided to crack the lincoln mig out and hit the brake pedal assembly with some tacks just to make sure cause these are brakes we are talking about and you could never be to sure:
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/jagpics/4346974986/" title="DSC03133 (Large) by Bugin7, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4049/4346974986_027478f03d.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="DSC03133 (Large)" /></a>

So here it is bolted up:
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/jagpics/4346975124/" title="DSC03134 (Large) by Bugin7, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4021/4346975124_e6ba1bf430.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="DSC03134 (Large)" /></a>

Oh yeah, I redid the gaskets for front and back:
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/jagpics/4346974100/" title="DSC03121 (Large) by Bugin7, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2793/4346974100_b496c5dfc9.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="DSC03121 (Large)" /></a>

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/jagpics/4346229273/" title="DSC03122 (Large) by Bugin7, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4038/4346229273_a8d66d8338.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="DSC03122 (Large)" /></a>

Alright, So this thread is long enough, I bled the brakes and bled the brakes some more. After a couple times of arguing with the wife about holding the pedal down untill I said let go I was back on the road......

They are much better but not really where I want to be, I have ran into a snag with the booster rod because its about a 1/2" shorter, so the pedal sits lower, nothing a mod will not fix. I can't believe I am saying this but this a moment where I can honestly say, "if I only had a 1/2" more things would be different"

All in all pretty decent upgrade, maybe not worth all the work but I am much happier with results, I am in the process of making a longer bracket for the pedal assembly and have a vacuum canister coming from Summit. I will keep you guys posted.

 

[Beto]

ok I am having problems linking the pics, I will get back to it and fix this so you check them out.... or just coping and paste the link and you'll be able to see them...
thanks

 

[96r50]

Cool! I'd be interested in hearing your impressions of this change. Did you use the cruiser MC or the 4Runner MC?

For the images, insert the "http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2704/4346227849_def91eee96.jpg" in between IMG tags, like this but without the red A:

 

[Tapage]

So I've been gone for a couple of weeks and haven't had a chance to post what I would consider a pretty good upgrade. So here it is:
I looked into upgrading my brake booster since it had a massive dent in it and since the M/C was leaking I thought it would be a good time. I did research here and found a couple of threads on boosters none been to significant to the upgrade I was looking for. When I had my 69 Chevy I added a 3/4 ton booster on a 1/2 ton truck and man what a difference, so I thought maybe it would be the same. The only problem is the next biggest booster I could find would be an ABS booster from a mid 90's 4runner. The booster is bigger which in turn should give you a little more umfff. So I hit a local dismantler and long behold a pretty new m/c and ABS booster were waiting for me. 50 bucks, I think was worth the experiament. I can always remove the booster and go back to a stock one. (by the way the ABS booster is a $400 booster on ebay, just because its ABS).

So here it is:

Here is my booster dent:

Here is the pull:

Ok so some dilema, the stock booster has the check valve integrated in the booster and the new one has to be run inline, so I grabbed that while I was at it.

fj80 booster:

4runner booster:

Not a big deal just cut the line to the manifold and run it inline:

Another dilema, the 4runner booster bolts right up but is actually ment to be bolted upside down in comparison to the vacuum line, when turn right side up there is a slight difference so to keep things uniform I decided to notch the firewall and brake pedal assembly:

So I decided to crack the lincoln mig out and hit the brake pedal assembly with some tacks just to make sure cause these are brakes we are talking about and you could never be to sure:

So here it is bolted up:

Oh yeah, I redid the gaskets for front and back:

Alright, So this thread is long enough, I bled the brakes and bled the brakes some more. After a couple times of arguing with the wife about holding the pedal down untill I said let go I was back on the road......

They are much better but not really where I want to be, I have ran into a snag with the booster rod because its about a 1/2" shorter, so the pedal sits lower, nothing a mod will not fix. I can't believe I am saying this but this a moment where I can honestly say, "if I only had a 1/2" more things would be different"

All in all pretty decent upgrade, maybe not worth all the work but I am much happier with results, I am in the process of making a longer bracket for the pedal assembly and have a vacuum canister coming from Summit. I will keep you guys posted

 

[Ebag333]

It looks like the 4-Runner Master Cylinder is smaller that that of the 80's. Could you use the 80's MC instead of the 4-Runners?

 

[96r50]

They are much better but not really where I want to be, I have ran into a snag with the booster rod because its about a 1/2" shorter, so the pedal sits lower, nothing a mod will not fix. I can't believe I am saying this but this a moment where I can honestly say, "if I only had a 1/2" more things would be different"

Which rod is too short? On the 80s, both ends of the pushrod are adjustable. Are the 4Runner ones not, or are they not long enough?

It looks like the 4-Runner Master Cylinder is smaller that that of the 80's. Could you use the 80's MC instead of the 4-Runners?

Wouldn't a smaller MC piston diameter provide more force on the caliper pistons? I think that's what I remember from the Popular Mechanics for Kids tv show

 

[Tapage]

Which rod is too short? On the 80s, both ends of the pushrod are adjustable. Are the 4Runner ones not, or are they not long enough?

take in mind I just translate the original post with the pics ..

 

[96r50]

take in mind I just translate the original post with the pics ..

Duly noted, and corrected. Thanks for linking up all the pics.

 

[Beto]

96R50:
I appreciate the "how too" I wasn't sure, I appreciate it. The rod I was talking about being smaller is the booster rod that attaches to the brake pedal, there is adjustment but its maxed out. Everything else is the same, the rod length that goes between the M/C and the booster.

TAPAGE:
man thanks for doing that, I really appreciate you doing that, I haven't used that website to much and am getting tired of loading up pics through the 80 website, its just easier thru the flikrs one.

EBAG333:
The M/C is actually from a 4runner although if you go to a parts store like AZ they will give you the exact same one as a 92' fj80. They look identical.

 

[Beto]

So I got the Vacuum resorvoir from Summit and I did the install, WOW good difference! The only thing is I am debating going back to a stock booster to see what the difference would be, if the resorvoir would have been enough of a boost to help the brakes, I might have to visit the dismantler and see what kinda deal I can got a stock booster for.

Here is the resorvoir

The holes I drilled to attach the resorvoir

Resorvoir installed with hoses attached

I have some fuel injection line coming so I will be swapping the hose I currently have in there because I am kinda nervous it might want to collapse, its 3/8 tranny line which is fine but these lines are rated for expansion not vacuum. I know the fuel injection line has more sturdiness to it so I will go that route or simply bend up some 3/8 metal brake line and run shorter pieces of hose.

On the canister itself it has a port to run a vacuum gauge so for kicks and giggles I might have to get one just to see what kind of reaction it has when pressing the brakes, its also great indicator in case I am losing vacuum from a hose on the booster line or the booster/canister.

The next mod I have set up is doing away with the LSPBV, Yeah its a good idea but I am not satisfied with the rear brakes doing what they should be doing. I am fully adjusted in the rear now and bled, and yet I still get little braking power in the rear, I understand how its supposed to be this way the rig should be able to squat a little better.

I will keep you guys posted with the LSPBV removal!

 

[Ebag333]

The next mod I have set up is doing away with the LSPBV, Yeah its a good idea but I am not satisfied with the rear brakes doing what they should be doing. I am fully adjusted in the rear now and bled, and yet I still get little braking power in the rear, I understand how its supposed to be this way the rig should be able to squat a little better.

I will keep you guys posted with the LSPBV removal!

Do you still have rear drums? If so, removing the LSPV should be fine.

On the other hand if you have rear disks I would not remove the LSPV. If you remove it or it is misadjusted (too biased to the rear) then you will introduce oversteer. Additionally if you have ABS you will significantly increase your stopping distance.

 

[Beto]

I have a 92' with drum in the rear so doing the LSPBV should be good. I read up on it and did notice if having disk setup can end up causing a bigger issue. I plan on going disk eventually when I can find a pot of gold somewhere to buy a rear end with disk and lockers. But for now I am simply trying to improve what I have.
Thanks for the input Ebag333

I will posting up pics even though many have already done this mod......

 

[Brian894X4]

So, the extra vaccum resevoir actually improves braking? If so, why? I'd like to hear more.

 

[ToyRoverlander]

So, the extra vaccum resevoir actually improves braking? If so, why? I'd like to hear more.

X2!!

 

[ranma21]

hmm, this can be my next mod if it does help.

 

[Beto]

The mod works, the dilema is wether its neccesary to replace the booster with a bigger one. I honestly don't think so, the vacuum resorvoir should be enough but who knows, I will try to head back the dismantler in a couple of days to see if I can pick up a stock booster for the 80 and run that instead of the 4runner ABS booster. I will post up picks and results. I can tell you my brakes lock up when I'm cruisin down the road!

My theory: Having more vacuum creates less of an effort when you press down on the brake pedal, so the car is doing the work not you. I used to stand up on the pedal and thing would still roll to a stop, now I actually have to let off the brake or it will put me in the glass. I don't want to steer anyone wrong but it worked on my 69' Chevy (I went from a 1/2 ton booster to a 3/4 ton booster) and its now worked on the Cruiser. I also think doing away with the LSPBV valve will improve braking ability as well.

oh by the way the canister was $34.95 thru summit.

 

[Beto]

So its been a couple of days on the feedback I promised but here it is, I will have to get back to you guys with pics but the mod worked out great, I exteneded the pedal up so it gave me the proper height I was looking for. Man I can stop the rig like never before, greatest mod so far!!!!! I still have the mod of removing the LSPBV and install a T but that will have to wait.

 

[PHIL O]

when you changed canister, i noticed you didnt put the check valve inline with the hose in the picture. does the canister have a check valve built in?

 

[FirstToy]

subscribed.
interesting, not familiar with this but would like to hear more