Crank and No Start!!!

[k91]

Crank and No Start!!! (Closed Thread)

Story.....I was at Jiffy Lube yesterday, (I know, I can do it myself, but I have other crap to do!) They pulled the 97 FJ80 up to the bay, conducted the oil change and then......no start! Cranks over fine, no starty start. No CEL either. I towed it home and checked the electrical stuff. I checked the coil/igniter, EFI relay under hood, behind kick plate (they seem good). I then jumped the FP/B check connector. Still have nothing. This is starting to frustrate me. Any ideas?? Thanks in advance, Matt

 

[trapper92]

weird.....wonder if one of the sensor wires or connectors got disturbed around the oil filter location during the re and re. (crank sensor?)
just a thought.....

 

[askeyey]

When my 3fe had the same symptom it was a bad fuel pump. I could hear the pump when I jumped FP/B but it still ended up being the culprit. Try cracking the fuel line before the filter and seeing if you get fuel spray when you jump the FP/B. I would also check your efi relay on the pass side wheel well near the battery. Jiffy may have shorted/broken something if your connectors were fragile and that would cause the same symptoms. If the wiring on the efi relay looks good you can still test its operation very easily with and ohm meter per the fsm. Good luck.

 

[Beowulf]

Story.....I was at Jiffy Lube yesterday, (I know, I can do it myself, but I have other crap to do!)

Matt,
If you watched the guys then retrace what each was working on. It is unlikely that some part failed right when you turned it off in the bay.

Things that I would check:

* The oil filter is close to the dizzy and, if you remove from above, your arms might knock off the coil wire.

* If they checked the A/F they might have disconnected the MAF.

* Check the EFI fuse. Any shorted wire (e.g. O2 sensor) would take out the EFI fuse and it will not start without the EFI system.

Good luck and be sure to let us know what you find. I hate it when this type of thread gets started and a bunch of suggestions are made and the OP disappears. Promise you won't do that to us... OK?

-B-

 

[k91]

Thanks for the replies....I never remember hearing the fuel pump when turning the key....is it always prominent sounding?? I was not watching when they did the service, I wish I had. I tried jumping the FP at the check connector and still nothing. I promise I will have updates when I get them and post, this is our second daily driver and it needs to be on the road. Unfortunately, the 40 has to take a back seat now

 

[CJF]

What do you mean by "no CEL"?

The Check Engine Light should be illuminated with the key in the ON position (engine off). Is it?

Curtis

 

[k91]

I'm not getting the "check engine light" when I turn the key to the "on" position.

I think I may have determined that it may be the EFI main relay. I used a volt meter at the "check connector" and did not find voltage there. If I'm correct, It should be the EFI main relay.

 

[Beowulf]

It is more likely a tech laid a wrench across your battery terminals or bumped a connection of the back of the alternator or something like that.

Check the EFI fuse first. If it is good then check the fusible links. If they are good then move on to the EFI main relay. IME, they don't fail often and almost never in the scenario you described.

FYI, the malfunction indicator lamp (MIL) aka "check engine light" is supposed to illuminate with the key in the "on" position which also means the ECM is getting power. If the ECM does not have power then the truck is not going to start and run no matter what you do.

-B-

 

[k91]

Update!!

So after checking and double checking all of the EFI fuses and fuseable links, relays and such, I took off the return fuel line and cranked it over to verify that it was not getting fuel. Nothing came out. I then tore out the middle row seats and pulled the carpet back to get to the fuel pump.
Once I disconnected the fuel pump and turned the key to the "On" position to check for voltage, the "check engine light" came on! I was obviously very surprised by this and checked the voltage to the fuel pump. I verified that there is voltage getting to the fuel pump and then turned the ignition key off. I then double checked several times, connecting and disconnecting the fuel pump. Everytime I had the fuel pump disconnected, the "check engine light" would illuminate. this leads me to believe that the fuel pump is the faulty part. What do you think?? Thanks in advance, Matt

 

[landtank]

another member had some chafed wires going to the pump that left him stranded. I'd check for a short. First take an ohm reading between each leg of the pump to ground, they should read infinity, and then across the pump which I'd guess should be around 45 ohms.

A low ohm reading between either leg and ground would be a wiring problem an across the pump could be a wiring or pump issue.

 

[HomersCanyonero]

I hope you found your problem, but watching the monkeys at Jiffy Lube disconnect things and unscrew plugs to check fluid levels is the reason I won't go back to them.

In the process of checking/inspecting things, they can cause problems like screws/plugs too tight or too loose, not connecting things back properly, or even knocking something else off.

At least my excuse for breaking things is that I'm not a mechanic by trade, so I can afford myself some leniency.

 

[k91]

Anyone have anymore input on my #9 post??? Thanks in advance, Matt

 

[NorCalDoug]

another member had some chafed wires going to the pump that left him stranded. I'd check for a short. First take an ohm reading between each leg of the pump to ground, they should read infinity, and then across the pump which I'd guess should be around 45 ohms.

A low ohm reading between either leg and ground would be a wiring problem an across the pump could be a wiring or pump issue.

if you're talkin' about me (since I had a similar experience), the EFI fuse kept blowing on me. I had the same symptoms, but couldn't figure out what, specifically, was causing the fuse to blow.



Just so I'm clear -- is the EFI fuse blown or not? It seems like you're saying that it's not blown...but I'm not all that clear on whether or not it is...
Have you replaced the EFI fuse with a known good fuse and tried again?

 

[NorCalDoug]

So after checking and double checking all of the EFI fuses and fuseable links, relays and such, I took off the return fuel line and cranked it over to verify that it was not getting fuel. Nothing came out. I then tore out the middle row seats and pulled the carpet back to get to the fuel pump.
Once I disconnected the fuel pump and turned the key to the "On" position to check for voltage, the "check engine light" came on! I was obviously very surprised by this and checked the voltage to the fuel pump. I verified that there is voltage getting to the fuel pump and then turned the ignition key off. I then double checked several times, connecting and disconnecting the fuel pump. Everytime I had the fuel pump disconnected, the "check engine light" would illuminate. this leads me to believe that the fuel pump is the faulty part. What do you think?? Thanks in advance, Matt

I'm sure you don't have a code scanner or else you would've reported on the code being thrown...



I'd guess that the MIL you're seeing is more along the lines of "hey, where's the fuel pump?" rather than "hey, there's something wrong with this fuel pump!"...

 

[k91]

No scanner....didn't have a code until today. Also, the light did not flash when I turned the key to the "On" position, just stayed steady, which I think is normal. I did not replace the EFI fuse, I tested it with a multimeter and it checked good according to the test. I am just trying to cover all the bases before I drop 300 bones down on a part I may not need. Thanks again for all your input! Matt

 

[landtank]

Not blowing the fuse doesn't mean you don't have a short, it's just not a dead short. The other possibility is that with the load of the pump and a bad supply connection, not enough amps are passing to keep the system turned on.

I'd still take those ohm readings I suggested

 

[k91]

landtank.....Please excuse my ignorance...I am not much of an electrician, but when you say infinity, do you mean "No continuity?" Also, would these readings be taken at the connector between the posts?? Sorry..Thanks for your input, Matt

 

[landtank]

infinity is no continuity or open. I'd measure them right at the connector since when you unplug that connector power seems to be restored and the CEL come on.

 

[k91]

And you would check both the connector side and pump side right??

 

[k91]

I just re-read your post.....makes sense now, I work nights and just got up so I'm a little slow. Thanks, Matt