where is the CDL 30a fuse? (1 Viewer)

[cool breeze]

After doing some wheeling yesterday my cdl wont disengage. Im using this page Troubleshooting the Toyota FJ80 Land Cruiser Center Diff Lock (CDL) | Pacific Northwest Backroad Adventures
to trouble shoot but can't find the 30a diff fuse. It says it is in the engine bay labeled "diff."

 

[Lka1988]

My CDL fuse is under the dash....Take a look under there.

 

[cool breeze]

thanks but looked there too.

 

[cool breeze]

Found it, fuse is good. Went to a field and did circles, figure 8's, foward, reverse...stil locked. Going to check now by jacking up one wheel.

 

[sbisig]

There are two fuses that provide power to the CDL circuit. One is the fuse block on the dash and the other is in the fuse block under the hood. At least that is how my 92 is wired.

Steve

 

[Lka1988]

I've never seen a Diff fuse under the hood...

 

[sbisig]

Well I got my wiring manual out again and checked it out again, and I got it wrong on the original post. Thanks for bringing this up so I can make the correction.

The CDL uses power from two power sources in the dash fuse panel. One is the 30A Diff fuse that provides power to Terminal 3 on the relay. The 10A Gauge fuse provides power to the CDL switch and the 4WD Indicator.

I will make the change to the original post at Troubleshooting the Toyota FJ80 Land Cruiser Center Diff Lock (CDL) | Pacific Northwest Backroad Adventures

Steve

 

[cool breeze]

both fuses on my 94 were under the dash in the cab. I wish one was blown because than i wouldnt still have a problem.

 

[cool breeze]

It looks like the relay is good but check my math.

On the continuity test between pin 6/7 i get no continuity, even when reversing the poles. This is because i have no abs with the cdl dash button, not that the relay is bad, correct?

 

[cool breeze]

On your page the test for the cdl switch is wrong, there should be continuity as followed:

ON 7/8
off 7/10

 

[cool breeze]

It looks like the relay is good but check my math.

On the continuity test between pin 6/7 i get no continuity, even when reversing the poles. This is because i have no abs with the cdl dash button, not that the relay is bad, correct?

 

[cool breeze]

Who is familiar with the cdl motor acuator?

Im at the point of a long dark road so i need some help. After lots of searching lowering the crossmember i think i found it.
This has got to be the damn motor actuator harness, right?


If it is then im getting the right resistance while 2/3, but not individually when grounded. In this pic im connecting 2/3, correct?

 

[TrickyT]

It looks like the relay is good but check my math.

On the continuity test between pin 6/7 i get no continuity, even when reversing the poles. This is because i have no abs with the cdl dash button, not that the relay is bad, correct?

You should get continuity between pins 6&7 on the relay with the meter probes one way (e.g. red probe on 7, black probe on 6) and no continuity with the probes reversed. If you don't, the relay is bad. The ABS has nothing to do with the CDL dash switch. It's the CDL indicator switch down on the diff itself that enables/disables the ABS system.

 

[TrickyT]

Im at the point of a long dark road so i need some help. After lots of searching lowering the crossmember i think i found it.
This has got to be the damn motor actuator harness, right?


If it is then im getting the right resistance while 2/3, but not individually when grounded. In this pic im connecting 2/3, correct?

Looks like the connector for the CDL actuator motor to me. I'm not 100% sure you've got pins 2/3, but I think so. But I'm confused when you say "but not individually when grounded." You are basically trying to test two things at this stage: 1) is there continuity between the connector and through the motor coil windings?, and 2) verifying the windings are not shorted to ground. Resistance between pins 2 & 3 should be relatively low, and resistance between either pin 2 and the motor casing or between pin 3 and the motor casing should be very high - at least 500K ohms. If either of these two tests is bad, then the actuator is bad. A third test you can do is connect a 9 volt battery to pins 2 & 3. With the battery leads connected one way the motor will run in one direction and with the battery leads reversed the motor will turn in the opposite direction. (I'm not sure, but I strongly suspect that the actuator will have to be removed from the center diff for this test because the 9 volt battery can't supply enough power to actually lock and unlock the diff.) If the resistance readings are as they should be and the actuator motor runs with the 9 volt battery, then chances are very good that the actuator is fine.