Trailer Hitch Idea

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Joined
Aug 30, 2006
Threads
16
Messages
149
Location
Eastern Idaho
I have a dealer installed trailer hitch. It is bolted to the bottom of the frame rails. Has anyone ever cut off the rear bumper and installed the hitch on top of the frame rails? The hitch itself would then reside in between the rails.

Been done?

edit.. I just saw this thread..
https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=150551
Look at the first picture on tread #18. This is what I am talking about.

Anyone know if this was done the way that I described above?

It wure would give me a lot more ground clearance.
 
The rear bumper merely unbolts for removal. So not sure what you mean by cutting it off??
 
For a long time I've thought about modifying the hitch to fit in between the frame rails and use the same holes to attach it. Basically in the space where the factory spare was. Then turn the receiver part 90 deg so it faces straight down. Finally Buy/fab an "L" shaped receiver/ball mount to pin in when I need to tow.

I have a friend with an M-Coupe that bacically did the same thing. It resulted in a slick hidden hitch that he could use when towing his gear trailer to the track.
 
The rear bumper merely unbolts for removal. So not sure what you mean by cutting it off??

After unbolting all of the plastic, you are still left with the center "metal part" between the frame rails. This looks welded on to me.
It would need to be removed in order to place the hitch there.
 
The rear bumper merely unbolts for removal. So not sure what you mean by cutting it off??

x2 two. IMO the rear "bumper" isn't even really a bumper per se. More like a cover. Three pieces: Two end pieces and then the center section piece that sort of just sits over/hides the rear crossmember.

To do what you are suggesting would involve having to cut the rear crossmember...I have some pics at home of the rear "bumper" removed that may help you visualize what's what if no one posts up some before then...
 
I haven't really looked at it, but couldn't you simply flip the hitch and then cut a hole in the crossmember?

I know some of the Taco guys do this.
 
It does not really fit, at least my reese did not.
I cut the rear cross member out.
Then took the reese and cut the center out.
I then had to remove about a 1/4 on both sides.
Then flipped the plates so they stick up rather than down and bolted them to the frame in the same holes.
Then welded the center piece back onto the plates.
Mine is set back like in Lukes bumper.
https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=150024
 
I haven't really looked at it, but couldn't you simply flip the hitch and then cut a hole in the crossmember?

I know some of the Taco guys do this.

No, you can't. You have to remove the rear crossmember all together. The hitch has some bow to it, and actually comes out further than the crossmember does. You could change the mounting holes to push it back further, but that kinda defeats the whole idea of just bolting it up to the same holes.

Also, it ends up too high. The reciever part that hangs down below the hitch that is now on top of the hitch is about 1/2 - 3/4" too high for the tailgate to fully open.

How do I know all this for sure? I did it last weekend. Just haven't posted any pics yet. I started out just taking the hitch off for clearance. Then I decided to just take the bumper / plastic coverings off. Then I looked at it closer and decided to cut the rear cross member out and flip it. I thought the reciever part looked high, and when I opened the tailgate and slowly lowered it, it indeed hit. Could have just cut the rear part of it off and as long as the drop bars were short enough it might have been o.k., instead, I decided to go ahead and cut the whole reciever box off. I picked up a 24" one at Atwoods, and will be mounting it about 1/2 way through the hitch, with boo-ku bracing. I also realized that the routing of my tailpipe is such (not stock) that with just slight modifications, I'll be able to make it come straight out the back of the truck.

I'll take some photos of it tonight and post them up. I plan on using this as the starting point of building my own rear bumper.

Hope this info. helps.
 
Last edited:
Some pics with the rear bumper off of a '97 LX450...Shows the rear crossmember for those that have never had their "bumper" off and are wondering what is behind it :cheers:

.
Rear Crossmember 1.webp
Rear Crossmember 5.webp
Rear Crossmember 2.webp
 
View looking into the DS and PS frame rails - You can see the bolts that would hold the hitch (removed before pic) and factory tow points to the frame rails.

.
Rear Crossmember 4.webp
Rear Crossmember 3.webp
 
Excellent shots - thanks to both of you.

DougM
 
Do these help?
hitch1.webp
hitch2.webp
hitch3.webp
 
green arrow shows the part of the cross member that is in the way even if you move the hitch back.
crossmember.webp
 
Would a flipped factory hitch provide enough strength to safely remove those braces?

There is alot more strength in the hitch than there is in the rear crossmember. There is a reason that the hitch is added for towing rather than just mounting a hitch into the rear bumper / crossmember. The rear crossmember is not real heavy guage steel.
 
There is alot more strength in the hitch than there is in the rear crossmember. There is a reason that the hitch is added for towing rather than just mounting a hitch into the rear bumper / crossmember. The rear crossmember is not real heavy guage steel.

Just bolting a bowed hitch to the frame lacks triangulation entirely. I would be very uncomfortable with that setup long term, despite the strength of the hitch steel.

That is one reason I like Slee's setup so much. It creates triangulation to the frame inbound from the rear crossmember in addition to any strength you add to the outer crossmember (any kind of fab work, aftermarket bumper, etc).

It has always struck me as a major weak point that a rear end collision at an angle could easily bend the rear crossmember, which is also the bumper, and therefore bend the frame inward - using a hitch in this position doesn't change that equation. With the spare tire removed, there is an opportunity to mitigate this risk (Slee's setup being admittedly somewhat light duty in this area).

In other words, adding a triangulated crossmember behind your hitch system is an excellent idea if you don't have a hitch mounted in the stock position.
Hitch Triangulation.webp
 
x2 two. IMO the rear "bumper" isn't even really a bumper per se. More like a cover. Three pieces: Two end pieces and then the center section piece that sort of just sits over/hides the rear crossmember.

To do what you are suggesting would involve having to cut the rear crossmember...I have some pics at home of the rear "bumper" removed that may help you visualize what's what if no one posts up some before then...

You guys can call it a crossmember, I was calling it the bumper. I completely understand what is back there as I have taken everything apart except for cutting out the rear crossmember/bumper. I am definately not an idiot when it comes to vehicles (although that is just my opinion!)

If I were to take the hitch and place it above the frame rails, then I would also tuck it back a ways to gain departure angle. I will then trim the frame rails back and start a bumper build from that.
 
Cameron,
The issue with using the hitch has been covered, it will not have nay trianulation. I cut about 4 inches off the rear of the frame rials and then built a bumper around 3 2x4 3/16" box tubes. two at the very end of the frame rails and one about 14" back of the lead edge.
Edit,
I had some pics, looks like comcast took them down. Pm me an email and I can shoot you what it looks like if you would like. I am in tampa Now but will be home by mon or tues.
Dave
 
Walking Eagle, your crossmember was flipped and then bolted to the original holes correct?

What if metal spacers were fabbed to lower it enough to clear the tailgate. It might not be strong enough what do you all think?

How did it look before you cut the receiver up? I am betting it looked pretty funky.
 
Walking Eagle, your crossmember was flipped and then bolted to the original holes correct? .

Crossmember is cut out. Hitch is flipped and then bolted to the origonal holes.

What if metal spacers were fabbed to lower it enough to clear the tailgate. It might not be strong enough what do you all think?.

I wouldn't use spacers since now that hitch is a integral part of the frame. You could certainly cut the crossbar off the hitch and lower it or flip it like fzj80kidpen said he did. Myself, I still want it high as possible. Unlike Luke's bumper, I want the hitch pin on the outide of the bumper. I did it on the inside of my 40, and it was a bit of a pain if you use it alot. So, if I'm going to have to have it stick out further, I want it up higher to negate any clearance loss.

How did it look before you cut the receiver up? I am betting it looked pretty funky.

yes, funky, basically just the same as it is now with a 2-1/2" square on top. I didn't really worry about how it looked sitting that way since I always planned on building the bumper around it.
 

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